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Thread: ProBoat HyperSport 48 Gas Mono - Prep for Racing

  1. #1
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    Default ProBoat HyperSport 48 Gas Mono - Prep for Racing

    I know this isn't FE, but I thought maybe a person or two out there might be interesting in seeing someone attempt to race-prep the ProBoat HyperSport 48.

    I plan on racing this this season, either in G1-Mono or Offshore, if District 8 offers these, or in the Open class, which I know they do.

    I'm NOT figuring on this being a front-running, competitive package, but I want to get some stick time with a Gas boat, and I want to see just how far something like this can be pushed. It's also always fun to prove people wrong who enter these endevours with certain biases and tell you that it "can't be done"... or that it'll "never work"....

    Hang onto your shirts guys! This will be a longer term project, but by the time I'm done with this, it'll have a moded Zen or RCMK motor in it, and we'll find out just how hard you can push this hull!

    First step, get it unpackaged!

    Boat comes nicely packaged in a BIG box! Includes a decent stand that needs to be glued together if you don't want it to be coming apart all the time.

    Also comes complete with a DX3S Spektrum system and MR3000 RX. BING-BING!! Won't be needing this TX for now, so I'll leave it package up.
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    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  2. #2
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    Here are a few more initial shots....

    Hull quality is pretty nice, especially for a RTR hull. Layout is nice as well. Some features include a metal geared heavy steering servo with aluminum arm, a drop-in sealed radio box, and really decent quality hardware. Hardware is very heavy-duty on this one. An easily accessible Zen G260PUM motor motivates this package. Cannister muffler and side exist exhaust are questionable to me, but we'll give it a whirl before we likely swap that stuff out with a tuned pipe, rear-exit setup.
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    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

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    Having run the Production Sample of this boat during the 2009 NAMBA Nationals, one thing I noticed, that hasn't been changed for Production, was the rather whimpy steering rod. If you don't have precise steering, then you can't drive precisely, so this is the first upgrade.

    I cut a piece of 4-40 steering rod to length and soldered on a second threaded end. Just for good measure, I epoxied a piece of carbon fiber rod over the outside. This thing isn't flexing again! Keep in mind, that any give you take out of something, means the loads that thing was absorbing will be transfered upstream. In this case, the servo will take the extra load, as will it's mount. I need to look up the specs, but I believe this is only a 50 or 60 oz-in servo in there. This will get replaced with a new, MUCH higher oz-in servo as soon as I get one here. It's a big, heavy boat, and there is no use in taking chances or waiting for a lighter component to fail.

    I decided to use some Duratrax heavy duty ball-style rode ends for this linkage, so I drilled and tapped the aluminum steering arms for 4-40 threads so I can bolt on the new linkage.

    Also found a new use for my old Tamiya T-Wrench! Fits the stock little nuts on the linkage mounting perfectly...

    (Also just noticed that in the last picture, the rod-end is mounted to the bottom of the servo arm, rather than on top... Umph! :D )
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    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

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    Cool! Darin,

    I would give that exhaust a whirl as well...... right into the trash can!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeepers View Post
    Cool! Darin,

    I would give that exhaust a whirl as well...... right into the trash can!
    Ha-Ha... Yah.. I'm already looking into a tuned pipe and header assembly... Need to save up the $200.00 or so it'll take to get it here.

    I'm working on mounting some trim-tabs and turn fins now. I'll have an update with pics shortly.
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

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    Why is it that the gassers use that nice cone with a set screw in front of the strut to keep from losing a shft but we FE'ers do not? I understand that the flex winds up under acc. This is why we leave a gap between the drive dog and strut, soooo how is it that gassers do not have the same problem????

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    There are two kinds of flex drives, one that uses a collet and what is called a "square drive". FE uses mostly the collet type where you tighten down on a collet at the motor to retain the shaft.

    In a square drive the font of the cable is square and floats in a square fitting at the motor end. It can move fore and aft a bit, hence no worries about wind up. At the rear there is a short shaft with the prop and a fitting in front of the skeg with the cone you see. The flex is soldered into the forward end of the cone and the set screws tighten on the prop soft. You undo the set screws to release the flex from the shaft and to remove the flex to lube it.

    Some guys swear by the square drive others by the collet. Both work fine when properly installed.
    Don't get me started

  8. #8
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    ahhhh, thank you sir! I have zero experience with gassers but I would like to do one in the future. I like the looks of this guy for a big "play" boat.

  9. #9
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    The odd thing about the ProBoat setup, and they do this on their smaller FE boats as well, is that the motor has a standard coupler on it that tightens down on the flex. The cable ends at the cone in front of the strut. The code attaches to the stub shaft via a set screw.

    I'll take a breakdown picture of this to post here. It's a silly system, because you have to remove the strut itself to get the cable out to lube it... losing your strut settings.

    I may update this to a more standard system later, but we'll see how this one holds up first. I have already made adapters to adapt standards 1/4" ID props to the 5mm stub shaft...

    For future offerings, I'm working to convince ProBoat that it would be better for the US market to use 3/16" and 1/4" stub-shaft sizes... We'll have to see if I'm getting through.
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  10. #10
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    That is weird!!
    Don't get me started

  11. #11
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    Default HyperSport 48 Strut Assembly

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill-SOCAL View Post
    That is weird!!
    Here is what the strut looks like broken down....
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    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

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    In prepping to fit the trim tabs, I located them on the hull and marked the holes. On the right side, I had to trim the tab bracket to clear the rudder mount. The made it necessary to locate a new hole on the bracket as well.

    The transom on the HS48 ihas a THICK plywood backing, which is great, but it doesn't extend quite far enough to mount the outter trim tab holes, so I will need to make a filler piece to glue into the hull. We'll be plugging the drain hole in the process. Turkey basters work just fine for getting any water out...
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    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

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    To make the filler pieces for the transom, I made a template using aluminum foil pressed into the area to get the outline. I then made plywood pieces to match. Fit turned out pretty good. I epoxied them in place with a generous amount of thick epoxy and let dry. Once they were firmly in place, I finished drilling up the transom with 1/4" holes to hold the 8-32" T-Nuts.
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    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

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    Trim Tabs fully mounted with 8-32 Stainless hardware. I angle cut the inside of each to provide a little more clearance in front of the prop. They are solid and ready to go to work.

    Also seen here is the new steering linkage mounted. Much more solid than the stock setup. I have a new Spektrum digital steering servo on the way that has 270+ oz/in of torque (Spektrum A6030), which should help maintain control of this big craft.

    Next step will be to figure out how to mount a set of turn fins... at least on the right side. Hmmmmm.....
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    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

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    Looks Good!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darin Jordan View Post
    Next step will be to figure out how to mount a set of turn fins... at least on the right side. Hmmmmm.....
    I did not realize how little room you had to work with on the transom. If I had to choose between trim tabs or a turn fin (right side) I would choose the turn fin.

    Looks good otherwise.
    Don't get me started

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill-SOCAL View Post
    I did not realize how little room you had to work with on the transom. If I had to choose between trim tabs or a turn fin (right side) I would choose the turn fin.

    Looks good otherwise.
    Ya... I have something in mind for a turn-fin mount. I'll get it in there!
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

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    Darin, I would be glad to make any shaft you need for that.

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    The new Spektrum Steering servo arrived... I'm using one of the new Spektrum Digital servos, in this case, an A6030, ("A" is for "Air"... The "S" series designate "surface" servos... ). The A6030 has metal gears, dual bearings, and over 270 in/oz of torque, so it should be up to the task.

    After mounting the servo in the stock location, I made a new antenna mount, using a 3/16" aluminum wide flanged pop-rivet epoxied just above where I mounted the MR3000 Rx... The stock antenna location is outboard of the radio box, but it just seems to make more sense to me to just put it in the radio box lid. Gets the antenna up a tad higher as well.

    I think I'll order a 6V RX pack as well, so I'll wait to secure the radio box lid until after I get the new pack.
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    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

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    To help channel air into the engine bay, and also get heat out, I opened up the stock scoop on top of the hatch, and I added some venting holes to the back of the hatch area.

    I'll see how this works, and test it with and without the hatch, to see if additional fresh air is needed...
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    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

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    I'd hog out the entire rear exit above the radio box. Hot air is your enemy and you want to make sure you let the engine breathe.

    I have also seen a few guys cut out the left side of the windscreen and install a fine mesh screen there. Gets lots of air that way and the screen helps reduce the possibility of getting washed out. On this hull you might think about doing that to the port side "window".
    Don't get me started

  22. #22
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    Time to mount some turn fins... I got these from right here on Offshoreelectrics.com. They are the "Extra Large" turn fins, and measure 90mm or so in length (about 3.6").

    There isn't a lot of transom space to work with, but I think I figured out a good solution... I mounted them to the trimtab mounts and it turned out great.

    First, remove the area from the supplied brackets, marked in black in the picture. I don't have a mill, so I just used a belt sander. Took about 45 seconds to do this, so no big deal...

    Next, I opened up the inside hole to pick up the existing hole in the trim tab bracket. After lining everything up, I marked the outter holes location, then drilled it out to tap it to 4-40.
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    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

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    After tapping the new hole in the trim tab bracket to 4-40 and deburring, I installed a short stainless 4-40 screw.

    Reinstall the trib tabs and that's pretty much it. Fins are solidly mounted and ready for action.

    Repeat for the other side.

    Fins look a little small to me, but now that the brackets are mounted, one can adjust as necessary.

    All told, took about 20 minutes total. VERY easy upgrade...
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    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  24. #24
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    Here are a few more shots of the mounting...
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    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill-SOCAL View Post
    I'd hog out the entire rear exit above the radio box. Hot air is your enemy and you want to make sure you let the engine breathe.
    Bill... I may be hogging some more out out of necessity... will have to see what needs to be done to fit a pipe in this thing....
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  26. #26
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    Got the strut and driveshaft reinstalled.... pretty much done at the tail-end.

    Going to add some drain holes in the back, but I have a plan that'll look pretty cool... will get to that shortly. I'm going to wait and see where the tuned pipe will exit first.
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    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

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    anymore updates on your mods? i curious to see how the tuned pipe can be mounted on the boat.im thinking about grabbing one of these,like the looks and the price,plus it doesnt have a clutch.there were 2 reviews recently in RCCAR and RCDRIVER,both said the same thing,great boat,great fun,lousy place for the exhaust (even though it was quieter than normal).keep us posted.thx

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigcam406 View Post
    anymore updates on your mods? i curious to see how the tuned pipe can be mounted on the boat.im thinking about grabbing one of these,like the looks and the price,plus it doesnt have a clutch.there were 2 reviews recently in RCCAR and RCDRIVER,both said the same thing,great boat,great fun,lousy place for the exhaust (even though it was quieter than normal).keep us posted.thx

    I haven't fitted the tuned pipe yet, though I do have one here... It doesn't look like getting it into the boat is going to be an issue. It still remains to be see, however, how cleanly I can position the exit of that pipe. I don't want to put a big gaping hole back there, so I'm going to take my time to get it as close to "just right" as I can. I'm going to run it for a few tanks with the stock exhaust to do the breakin and initial baseline runs... I'm taking off the additional hardware as well for this. Want to be able to gauge each update for effectiveness.


    I did fire it up the other day to get the initial breakin done. I'm not happy with the throttle cable setup, so I'm going to be updating that here next, before I hit the water. It's OK, but for racing, it's going to need to be more precise and repeatable. I'll be back to working on it again once some more pieces arrive.
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  29. #29
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    thx for the response.im curious to see how the tuned pipe will look.im thinking the exhaust is one of the biggest drawbacks on that boat from a design point.but the reviews say its quieter than normal,perfect for running at a park etc. but not for racing.im curious as to what props would compliment the stock zenoah as well.keep us posted.

  30. #30
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    Darin, very nice work. I didn't think the steering would be weak, but now that you mention it, yeah. You're right. I look forward to your impression of your changes for further consideration - especially the muffler. Are you going to log RPMS/speed?

    I appreciate you pointing me to the turn fins you chose.. I'm curious, which trim tabs are you using? If unknown, no problem, I can eye ball it.

    Thanks. -Mick

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