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Thread: neu 1515 1y with .150 flex

  1. #1
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    Default neu 1515 1y with .150 flex

    what are the opinions on using a .150 octura flex shaft/440-445 prop on a neu 1515 1y in a cat/inboard tunnel hull? is this going to work or do i need to go with a .187?
    thanks

  2. #2
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    1515 1y and .150 is the same combo I use in my Whip 20 and have no problems with it.
    * BBY Lift Master RIgger * Insane Gen 2 Cat * Aeromarine Avenger Pro Twin * Delta Force Cyber Storm * Delta Force 41" Mono * H&M Viper II * H&M Intruder * OSE Raider Hydro * Whiplash 20 * Brushless Mini Rio *

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  4. #4
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    Ditto that... .150 is fine for that application...
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  5. #5
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    i use the exact combo in my skunkworks cat without any probs


    Heath

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    are you guys using with or without liner? i have always used a liner thinking that it helps keep the water out. this application is actually an inboard tunnel hull that is going to have a "S" bend stuffing tube like a rigger.

  7. #7
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    i am building an FE version of this.
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  8. #8
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    Interesting... Never seen anything like that before.

    You'll probably want the motor as far back as possible to keep the hull balanced.

  9. #9
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    i got it here on OSE advertised as an FE tunnel i was planning on using a outboard on.... it is not! i spoke with the manufacture and got some recomended set-ups and decided that the inboard would be a good deal considering i run salt watter and was concerned about the FE outboard anyway...
    i havent figured it out yet but i was planning on putting the motor all the way forward and batteries in the back. this way i can change the COG from 20-35%. i checked all my nitro tunnels and they are around 27%. if i put the batteries behind/above the COG i can slide them around and change it easily. the battery/motor box is pretty big so i have alot of room to play with. i was thinking something like the nitro set-up only replacing fuel tank with battery and engine with motor...
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    Last edited by Chuck E Cheese; 12-20-2009 at 01:45 PM.

  10. #10
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    So your placing the batteries on either side of the flex cable? Or does the flex exit the hull before the batteries?

    Remember, keep the batteries as low as possible.

  11. #11
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    havent got to that yet but they can fit either way. when i get the hardware mounted and start the build i will have a thread going. i will post a link here.
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    That looks like it would be better than having the stuffing tube out in the middle of the tunnel....

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    i still have to put everything in it and check it out. i originally wanter the motor in the back. the hardware will be here monday or so and i can lay it all out and play with cog to find out what works. i am a little cautious and want to make sure i can move batteries and change from one extreme to another reguarding cog.

  14. #14
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    Having a rudder and stationary prop will definitely help with spinouts.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck E Cheese View Post
    are you guys using with or without liner?

    I always build without teflon. Much smoother driveline. I will also back-up the idea of having an "s" bend in the stuffing tube. You will get some who build with and some who build without liner. I am following the advice of Jay Turner who suggested liner-less a long time back. Just my personal preference.

    Thanks TTH
    * BBY Lift Master RIgger * Insane Gen 2 Cat * Aeromarine Avenger Pro Twin * Delta Force Cyber Storm * Delta Force 41" Mono * H&M Viper II * H&M Intruder * OSE Raider Hydro * Whiplash 20 * Brushless Mini Rio *

  16. #16
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    I don't use teflon anymore. .150 cable running in 7/32" brass is sweeeet.
    Mini Cat Racing USA
    www.minicatracingusa.com

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