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Thread: Best Whiplash Lipo Location

  1. #31
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    May 2007
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    NY
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    I originally ran Two 4s3200mah Flightpower 30c packs in parallel but switched to two 2s5500 35c lipo's in series.

    For a prop in race conditions I like a X642 or even a X445 both detongued and back cut but for all out speed the 1445 detongued is ballistic.

    The biggest improvement I made to the hull over the last couple season's was the turn fin. I originally ran the Blazer turn fin but switched my fin to a longer and more narrow fin and it made a huge improvement in speed and turning.
    Team Liquid Dash

  2. #32
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    Keep in mind that this isn't a sport setup (even though that is how I run it). I only get 2 min max with this setup. You can run a 37mm-40mm prop for more run time but the performance is boring to me.
    Team Liquid Dash

  3. #33
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    Jun 2008
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    GA
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    Quote Originally Posted by detox View Post
    crabstick,
    Thanks for your input. I may try it your way, but one thing that worries me about your motor being so far up front is driveline vibration. It seems that the longer the drive cable the more vibration no mater how much grease I use? Wouldn't a shorter stuffing tube and cable run smoother and vibrate less? Anybody have the answer? What is the best way to prevent a vibration free drive train other than perfect balance?
    ...

    While reading the Zipkits rigger manual I found that an S bend stuffing tube is better than one bend stuffing tube.

    Why an “S” shape? Tests have proven that a tube with two bends has less drag than a tube with one. The reason is that two bends support the flex cable better, reducing cable whip, and drag.

    http://www.zippkits.com/
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    Last edited by detox; 12-19-2009 at 05:43 PM.

  4. #34
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    Dec 2008
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    WI
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    That is how I bent my stuffing tube.

  5. #35
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    GA
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    Quote Originally Posted by LuckyDuc View Post
    RE: vibration on longer drive cables... Many of the nitro racers mount the motor flat and put an "S" bend in the stuffing tube to reduce flop and harmonics. I have also seen some use additional strut bushings inside the stuffing tube itself and at the motor end.
    You said it first. Thanks LuckyDuc


    ...

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    fl
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    664

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    Quote Originally Posted by detox View Post
    Yes. For longer run times using the Nue 1515 1y motor. For LSH class I will have to use 4s1p to be legal. How well does your LSH Whiplash run?
    It runs great for lsh, looks like everyone is running them in that class now. (RayR - propnut) is to blame...............
    Boats don't win races, drivers do.

  7. #37
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    Dec 2008
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    WI
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    Quote Originally Posted by highndry View Post
    ...looks like everyone is running them in that class now. (RayR - propnut) is to blame...............
    I was just thinking the same thing. There seems to be quite a few people building them this winter for FE. My club has 3 of them running lsh next season.
    I'm hoping that I can pull off P-sport with it as well.

  8. #38
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    May 2007
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    co
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    a couple of guys at NATS ran the Whip 20 in lsh and p sport, its very competitive with either set up.

  9. #39
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    Jun 2008
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    GA
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    Be sure to order this cool looking new cowl
    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...=whiplash+cowl
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #40
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    Jul 2008
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    NZ
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    Quote Originally Posted by detox View Post
    crabstick,
    Thanks for your input. I may try it your way, but one thing that worries me about your motor being so far up front is driveline vibration. It seems that the longer the drive cable the more vibration no mater how much grease I use? Wouldn't a shorter stuffing tube and cable run smoother and vibrate less? Anybody have the answer? What is the best way to prevent a vibration free drive train other than perfect balance?


    ...
    TBH its probably one of the smoothest drivelines I have in any of my boats. it has a very gentle S bend.

    Actually ran the whip yesterday in a sheltered bay near my house as it was blowing, put the blackberry in as GPS (dont tell my boss ) 59.3mph on 4s2p with an x642 and a fiegao 8xl, Might sneak another run in sometime this week if I can pry myself away from my gas boat, I will get the wife to come and operate the video camera this time! this time I will use her Iphone as the GPS :P
    Matt.
    FE, Nitro and Gas racing in Auckland
    www.rcboats.co.nz

  11. #41
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    GA
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    Quote Originally Posted by crabstick View Post
    TBH its probably one of the smoothest drivelines I have in any of my boats. it has a very gentle S bend.

    Actually ran the whip yesterday in a sheltered bay near my house as it was blowing, put the blackberry in as GPS (dont tell my boss ) 59.3mph on 4s2p with an x642 and a fiegao 8xl, Might sneak another run in sometime this week if I can pry myself away from my gas boat, I will get the wife to come and operate the video camera this time! this time I will use her Iphone as the GPS :P
    Please post pictures of your Whiplash hull and setup. Can you be honest and tell us where COG is located ready to run (measured inches from stern forward). How much does hull weigh?

    Thanks, Keith


    ...

  12. #42
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    Jul 2008
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    NZ
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    Have a build thread somewhere on here.

    COG with the 4s setup with the packs right forward is right 10mm past the trailing edge of the sponsons, I can move the packs back about 1.5 inches to adjust for water conditions and setup

    6s setup the COG is right on the sponson trailing edge due to the heavy motor (KB45) I can move the cells back about 1 inch to adjust for conditions etc.

    I will have to weigh it again as I can't recall off the top of my head, but its not a light build.
    Matt.
    FE, Nitro and Gas racing in Auckland
    www.rcboats.co.nz

  13. #43
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    Nov 2007
    Location
    AK
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    Hi detox, when i said in the nose, i meant like raydee's picture. You need to cut the top of that bulkhead, then u can get the batt right up. Then u can get your motor further foward.

  14. #44
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    Jun 2008
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    GA
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    Quote Originally Posted by tylerm View Post
    Hi detox, when i said in the nose, i meant like raydee's picture. You need to cut the top of that bulkhead, then u can get the batt right up. Then u can get your motor further foward.
    I will cut the bulkhead opening larger.

  15. #45
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    Dec 2008
    Location
    WI
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    989

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    Good thing that you haven't started glueing yet. It will be much easier to enlarge the bulkhead before hand.

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