34" Scrath Built Cat

[Norman2]

Hi, Just received my laser cut parts from Alex Guzman and will start sometime
next week. It will be a 34" OAL cat from Shockerman's plans. I will be making some
slight changes and will post photos from stages of the build. I am inclined to
power it with a 580L but will wait for later to decide. Regards
Norman2
PS. Will be just for sport with different paint scheme. Thanks to Alex for a super job.

[bustitup]

Hi, Just received my laser cut parts from Alex Guzman and will start soemetime
next week. It will be a 34" OAL cat from Shockerman's plans. I will be making some
slight changes and will post photos from stages of the build. I am inclined to
power it with a 580L but will wait for later to decide. Regards
Norman2
PS. Will be just for sport with different paint scheme. Thanks to Alex for a super job.

lot of work ahead of you...nice

curious as to what the lazer cutting bill came to...he cut your wood or his?

[Norman2]

Hi Bustitup, Cutting was $50.00 plus $20.00 shipping. He does excellent work. This
will keep me busy Winter and part of Spring for the painting. Regards
Norman
PS He provided the 1/8" plywood

[bustitup]

Hi Bustitup, Cutting was $50.00 plus $20.00 shipping. He does excellent work. This
will keep me busy Winter and part of Spring for the painting. Regards
Norman
PS He provided the 1/8" plywood

so basicly he supplies the "hull kit" for $70 shipped? and you just give him the cut sheets?


sweet deal
gl with that fun build

[Norman2]

Hi Bustitup, I provided him with a PDF File but he already had one and just scaled it to 34"
Regards, Norman

[Norman2]

Jim, Attached photos of the steps on my 30" cat. I will be doing them the same
on the 34" cat I am now building. Will have more photos this afternoon. Regards
Norman

[Norman2]

Hi, Started the 34" cat and will document the build. First stage completed with
the frame. As you can see I always indent part of the transom as I need the
space for my hardware to get the prop/rudder where I want it. Next flotation and
pre-fitting the hatch and Canopy. Then prepare bracing for sheeting. Regards
Norman

[CornelP]

Looks lovely in that size... I started another 30" but widened it a bit (by about 2cm), will start a thread when I get a bit further... just to make sure it turns out the way I want...
I changed the angles of the steps to perpendicular and will probably add a ridepad later on.
Any plans on hardware?

[Norman2]

Hi CornelP. Attached photo of hardware to be used. I built a 30" cat but wanted a
slightly larger one to make some changes which I did not do on my original one.
I did not change any angles as my 30" handles excellent both in straights as well
as in turns so hopefully it will work the same in 34". Regards
Norman

[Alfa Spirit]

What is this ??

[Norman2]

Hi Alfa Spirit. It is a thin piece of Carbon Fiber to cover an accident with a screwdriver when
I poked a large hole through the bottom. Only on my 30" cat. Regards
Norman

[j.m.]

I would think that running the strakes all the way to the cut on the steps would be preferable, they look like they would be scrubbing a lot of speed with the blunt nose.

[Norman2]

J.M. You are totally correct. I have been told before and will be placing the strakes
how you advised on my new build (34" version). Thanks for the advice. Regards
Norman

[Norman2]

Hi, Some photos of progress today. Installed floor (inner and exterior) also
installed place for batteries etc. in the sponsoons. Prepared canopy and hatch
and pre-fitted. Next fiberglassing interior, flotation and finally sheeting. Regards
Norman

[Norman2]

Hi, Due to all the snow was able to complete the sheeting. Now it will be a lot of
sanding, putty, primer and get ready for final painting in spring. In the meantime
will get hardware sorted out. Regards
Norman

[Chop]

SAWWWEEEEEETTT looking build. It looks like it is progressing well.
Have fun with it.

[Norman2]

Hi, Church is canceled due to the 8+ inches of snow in Western North Carolina so I will get to
do some work on the 34" cat. Have the strakes on so next step will be the finishing. I am going to
enumerate the steps I use to do the finishing,
1. Be patient, do not try to hurry finishing prep or final painting.

2. Sand hull and hatch with 200 grit sandpaper. Correct any imperfections like pin holes,
joints, etc. with wood putty and re-sand.

3. Wipe hull with a damp cloth to open the grain on the balsa. Once dry give one coat of
fiberglass resin diluted with Acetone so the balsa will be impregnated with the fiberglass.
Let dry completely.

4. Sand with 300 grit sandpaper until you feel it is smooth. Another coat of Fiberglass Resin with silkspan
on the bottom and sides. Sand until smooth.

5. Time for Automotive heavy primer. I only use Duplicolor Truck and SUV Primer, Color, and
Clear Coat. This is because they are all lacquer and will not wrinkle. I usually use three
or 4 coats of primer and sand between coats with 1000 grit sandpaper. Once I am sure
everything has no flaws I will use three coats of paint (Color of choice) sanding the first
two coats. Then Final coat of color Paint.

6. Place graphics of choice then two coats of Clear Coat. Let dry completely between coats.

7. Install electronics hardware and go to the lake and have fun.

I am sure there are other methods so I am just listing these as the ones that have worked
for me. This is not the only way, only the way I do it. Hope this can help all scratch builders.

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
Norman

PS. Worst thing you can do is mix Lacquer with Enamel. Creates one hell of a mess.

[j.m.]

Instead of thinning the epoxy with acetone (which kills the chemical reaction) just warm the epoxy when it's in the mixing cup. If you have a good slow laminating epoxy (40-60 minute pot life) then it will kick off in a reasonable time when heated.

[Jeff Wohlt]

Coating with minwax polyurethane is also a great option if you do not want to use resin. Water clean up as well. It soaks in very nicely. After that then use a high build sealer/primer.

Block sand to keep it straight....really want it the ultimate then lightly fog the final prep with a color coat then lightly block sand to find any dips or high spots.

[Norman2]

Thanks guys. I think I will stop the Fiberglass Resin and Use Jeff's method of using Minwax
Polyurethane. Thank god for this tip. No more messes. regards
Norman

[j.m.]

Minwax Polycrylic has been used successfully with fiberglass as well.

[Jeff Wohlt]

Yep...the plane guys have been using it for some time when building wings. Using just like resin with cloth.

[Norman2]

Hi, Attached photos of the Cat almost ready for paint. Still a few more primer coats
and final sanding, and if weather permits will start painting. Regards
Norman

[Norman2]

Hi, Just some more photos. It is now ready for painting so if the cold weather
goes away for a couple of days I will start. Regards
Norman

[Cat-Boi]

Looks awesome! very nice work.

[Alfa Spirit]

Very nice cat, congrats

[Norman2]

Hi, Thanks guys. Wife finally gave the OK to paint in the basement so will do the first coats today.
Regards,
Norman

[Alfa Spirit]

Make a nice finish, a nice paint job is amazing, check my friend' s cat

[Norman2]

Hi Alfa Spirit, I wish I had the ability to do that kind of beautiful paint job. Mine will
be all Ferrari Red with the Shake N' Bake and Proton Graphics in Red and Yellow.
Will Post pictures soon. Regards
Norman

[gto0209]

What thickness of balsa did you use for sheeting? and did you use templates for sheeting, or just rough it in?