70 mph DF 33

[tth]

Paddy.....just a suggestion here. I would turn the brackets on your trim tabs reverse from the position in the picture. It would allow more positive movement than what is allowed in the picture.

[Xzessperated]

Paddy.....just a suggestion here. I would turn the brackets on your trim tabs reverse from the position in the picture. It would allow more positive movement than what is allowed in the picture.

Thanks Tracy. As it happens on the third run yesterday the boat lifted off the water and took a tumble almost ripping one of the tabs off. All fixed now but I will put it on the other way up and see how it goes. I do get a little chine walk and a slight adjustment with the tabs might fix that.

How are you going with your two DF's?

[Flying Scotsman]

Paddy.....just a suggestion here. I would turn the brackets on your trim tabs reverse from the position in the picture. It would allow more positive movement than what is allowed in the picture.

Please explain what you mean, I am very interested

Douggie, the fool on the hill

[Rumdog]

Douggie. if you flip the mounting brackets the tabs can be moved farther up. The way they are now, they offer little to no upward adjustment.

[Flying Scotsman]

Got it, thanks, and a good suggestion. In my wee world I think that trim tabs are mounted flush with the hull and you make adjustments from that point, if they are required! I use them on some hulls, but not all

Douggie

[tth]

I recently traded my DF29 ( that hit 70 ) for a DF41 copy. I was curious to see the quality of these hulls and I do have to say they are well made. My boat was traded in the swapshop with Phil Munsterman. His boat was set up by Ray Fuller with all CNC hardware. I will be reconfiguring all the hardware and layout of the interior. The DF33 is coming along very well. I have worked the bugs out by trimming the Speedmaster stinger back 5/8" and cutting 3/4" off the rudder. Setup on the DF33 is similar to yours just alot more power. DF33, Neu 1521 1y, PQ 6s2p, M545. I finally stopped the chine walking and am working on keeping the boat on the water with neutral trim and negative drive angle.

Douggie....Rumdog is spot on with the answer. Glad to help

[Chilli]

I learned as a newbie that just because the tabs are neutral, that doesnt mean it will have zero effect on the hulls running attitude. I had a little chine walk when I first started dialing in my Titan. When I went a half turn positive on the tabs, all was good. Now when I dial in a hull, I start a turn or two positive and work my way down. I know Dougie and you other guru's already know this. I'm just bringing it up for guys that are starting out. Attached is a pic with the tab bracket mounted upside down. I did replace those screws with SS and locking nuts.

[westbeach]

Paddy,

I have in my collect of props Y536 (have not tried this yet) all props are S/B
X442 ( have no runs )
X637 ( have no runs )
X640 ( have no runs )
X642 detongued (ran this prop )
X645 ( ran this prop )
M445 (ran this prop )

Unfortunately I have not measured my speeds with these props. Need to get a GPS soon. My setup is for mostly sport running. Batteries are 5S2 Lipos 25C 4200MAH (these are about 2 years old with maybe half a dozen runs on them, brand name unknown! made by a friend who was into E-Helis at the time. I don't run trim tabs as the boat has a deeper Vee than the reg DF hulls. And she runs really well without them. I think I have had good speeds from the last two props. I am thinking of even going to a X450.

Neal,
What prop are you running?
What speed are you getting?
Have you an oval setup or a SAW setup?
Do you have a pic of the transom hardware you could share with us?
Can you give me more info on your batteries? I think you run 5s2p but what C rating and how old are they?
How have you got your trim tabs setup? Mine are above the bottom of the hull and only touch the water if the nose lifts a little.

[westbeach]

Paddy, I will take better pics of the transom, but the stinger is from Ray Fuller, and the rudder is from OSE. Turn fins are made from al. extrusion and sheet metal for the fin. My motor is laid out fwd towards the bow BTW. Battery pack sits towards the transom.

[Xzessperated]

Paddy and Andy, I want to see a pic of THE prop

Douggie

Here ya go Douggie

[DISAR]

Nice work, maybe the cupping makes the difference!

[Jeff Wohlt]

Cupping makes a big difference. Usually will also increase lift of the hull. Working the LE also makes a difference.

Bill Seebold Sr. did some work on my SS raker I run on my bassboat and wow...a little cup and LE bending and I can sure see the difference in the lift. Lost some RPM but she gets there...just take a bit longer.

I picked up 5 mph but takes longer to get her to top out.

[Xzessperated]

Cupping makes a big difference. Usually will also increase lift of the hull. Working the LE also makes a difference.

Bill Seebold Sr. did some work on my SS raker I run on my bassboat and wow...a little cup and LE bending and I can sure see the difference in the lift. Lost some RPM but she gets there...just take a bit longer.

I picked up 5 mph but takes longer to get her to top out.

Thanks for your input Jeff as it explains something I observed while running this prop. I noticed what I thought was a slight cavitation when I hit the throttle hard and it was a little slower off the mark than the prop that was just sharpened and balanced but the gps showed a faster top speed.
Please correct me if I am wrong but I think cupping concentrates the cone of water coming from the prop. At a guess I would say the rooster tail is not as high because more of the water is tending to go directly behind the boat and not rising in the air. To tell you the truth I was not looking at the rooster tail while the boat was at that speed

[DISAR]

From what I read only (not tried yet) that's correct. Narrows the thrust cone and increases thrust.

[Flying Scotsman]

Here ya go Douggie

Tell Andy to piss off, and damn it he is ugly for an Aussie, nice work though

Douggie