soldering

[saleens7]

i bought a soldering iron (that coldheat one) and im practicing soldering on some scrap 12 gauge wire...ony problem is i can only get it to solder a small amout of solder or not any at all. when the tip is heated, i can apply solder directly to the tip and it wont melt. Im thinking of just getting a regular soldering iron that actually has continuous heat. but could anyone think of what i might be doing wrong with the cold heat? (it only heats the tip when it touches wire and i can apply solder to the tip when it is heated and it wont melt..

[Diegoboy]

That iron isn't hot enough to do any "real soldering" It's okay for tinning wire (thin wire), but that's about it. If you have a large trace or surface area, it'll never get hot enough.

[SJFE]

I'm not trying to be a smart ass or any thing but what ya did wrong was get that thing. I saw it on tv also and rushed right out and got one. Mine shorted and caught fire. IMO they are junk. Take it back if you can. My advice if you are going to solder all the time is to buy a difital 100+ watt soldering station. I use that and a 200 watt gun. When I have the money I will by a Metcal system like Mr Hill uses @ BattlePack. Truth is it's tuff to buy a good system over the counter. The best thing you can do is remember to heat the work...don't use the solder.

[SJFE]

If you have 4 or 5 hundred dollars here ya go. Systems start @ 199. http://www.hmcelectronics.com/

[SweetZ28]

That solder gun is a junk i have 2 of them they are only good for emergancy solder jobs with like really thin wires like the size they use on the servos.
you need a way hotter solder gun for soldering anything normal.

[Diegoboy]

Here's the model I use, and I'm very happy with it.

Tenma 21-147

[Doozie870]

coldheat = junk

[Steven Vaccaro]

I had the same problem with the cold heat. JUNK. The only good part was the wire stripper. I was happy until I found out the stripper retails for $1.00

[Rex R]

weller 25w iron for the small to medium small jobs (14g wire & deans), weller 80w iron for somewhat larger jobs (12-10g wire & cells), assorted torches for larger stuff.

[JimClark]

Weller 40 watt works well also but be sure you have at least a 1/4 inch tip but the 80 watt is very good.

Jim

[saleens7]

well, i returned the coldheat and got a weller solder gun (100-140 watts) this thing will melt solder like theres no tomorrow, i tested it on the same scrap wire and this thing works great.

[JimClark]

dont use that on batteries you want an iron for that

[saleens7]

its for soldering wires to connectors...

[SweetZ28]

I have really good silver solder on my site if anyone needs any it's like the best silver solder you can get for low electrical loss when you solder stuff together
Melts at 421Deg

http://www.pprslots.com/mods.htm

[saleens7]

i have some rosin-core solder, will that be good?

[SweetZ28]

Yes but silver solder is better less resistance with silver means better power flow .

[SJFE]

I use a 240watt gun for batteries...I hate sitting around and waiting for the iron to heat the work.

[saleens7]

my soldering gun heats almost instantly (give it about 5 seconds and its ready to solder)

ill check out the silver solder (i can probably get it at home depot though)

[SweetZ28]

Nope this is resion core with 4% silver normal solder you buy at most places is only 2% silver not as good.

[Diegoboy]

I use a Tin/Lead ratio of 63/37 due to it's lack of a plastic state. Solder joints that are disturbed (moved) during the plastic state will result in damaged connections. For this reason, 63/37 solder is the best alloy for electronic work. Solder with 60/40 alloy is also acceptable, but it goes into a plastic state between 361 and 370 degrees Fahrenheit. When soldering joints with 60/40 alloy, you must exercise extreme care to prevent movement of the component during cooling.

[Steven Vaccaro]

I use a xy tronic. Its pretty inexpensive and has lasted about 5 years so far!

[saleens7]

i think ill use the silver solder....