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Thread: Supervee rebuild

  1. #31
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    oh, yeah sorry

  2. #32
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    Autobailers and FE boats are not a good idea at all.


    If you've got a leak, you need to fix that leak.
    You want to eliminate any and all water inside the hull.
    Whatever you do, do not resort to an Autobailer to fix your problems.
    Z
    KBB34" Mono - Fast
    ToySport Triton- Not as fast

  3. #33
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    I have no problem with water the but if one comes up my lipos will stand a chance until I notice the leak so it can be taken care of.Before the rebuild this boat stayed bone dry.

  4. #34
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    Got any further on the rebuild yet??

  5. #35
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    I have, the boat is finished I only need an esc I am thinking the himodel 200a. I have been really busy lately between remodeling going on in my house and work I dont have much time or money to put in to it but it will be happening real soon. I will get some pics up soon of the finished boat.

  6. #36
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    Oct 2009
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    That supervee looks awesome. You do great work. I'm interested into buying a supervee as my next boat. Are you changing the esc because the stock aquacraft escs are normally junk or did it fry in the crash. When you hit 56mph what setup where you using?
    - Diesel's Youtube
    - Diesel's Fleet
    "It is easier to be wise for others than for ourselves"

  7. #37
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    This is my progress so far, I've gotten more bits and pieces together and I'll order the speed control tomorrow. Hopefully I can get it back in the water soon and I would like to see 60 mph out of it. We'll see.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #38
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    Oct 2009
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    looks really good man! i like how everything is spread out among the hull it will make it alot easier to work on

  9. #39
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    Jan 2009
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    Done well dude, how did you go about polishing the harware?

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jackwgf View Post
    Done well dude, how did you go about polishing the harware?
    The hardware actually was not that bad at all to polish.I started with 400 grit then 600 then finally 1000 .I did this at work for my lunch break I'd say a total of 2 hours.

  11. #41
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    Finally got something going on here. The set up I will be running is a 10xl,Etti 150 running on 2x Zippy 5000mah 40c 3s.I actually got to run it today but by the time I was ready with the boat the sun was already going down so I didn't have time to tweak it any .It rode like crap I need to adjust the stinger the bow was bouncing really badly I could not get over half throttle but I did throw the gps in it and even with all of the hopping the gps showed 36 mph ,under half throttle, so I think I should get some pretty good speeds from this one as soon as the bouncing is calmed.
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  12. #42
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    Oct 2009
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    WA
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    Looks pretty awesome mate, I really need to start thinking about this sort of rebuild cause shes falling apart. So you guys polish the bastards hey? I spose it helps them slip through the drink better? My sv has damaged ribs,rear corners,cowl the nose has hit a limestone wall when the radio failed one time and the motor mount plate is bent. i bought a fiber glass repair kit but i've never done it before so do you's reckon from what i've said its fixable or should I just get a new hull?

  13. #43
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    it sounds like minor fiberglass work , body filler and a little paint as far as the stringers those can be easily replaced whether you choose to go back with wood or carbon fiber like I did

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigdg357 View Post
    finally got something going on here. The set up i will be running is a 10xl,etti 150 running on 2x zippy 5000mah 40c 3s.i actually got to run it today but by the time i was ready with the boat the sun was already going down so i didn't have time to tweak it any .it rode like crap i need to adjust the stinger the bow was bouncing really badly i could not get over half throttle but i did throw the gps in it and even with all of the hopping the gps showed 36 mph ,under half throttle, so i think i should get some pretty good speeds from this one as soon as the bouncing is calmed.
    amazing sv you have, appaluse on the carbon work and your attention to detail!!!
    - Diesel's Youtube
    - Diesel's Fleet
    "It is easier to be wise for others than for ourselves"

  15. #45
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    Oct 2009
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    WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by BIGDG357 View Post
    Finally got something going on here. The set up I will be running is a 10xl,Etti 150 running on 2x Zippy 5000mah 40c 3s.I actually got to run it today but by the time I was ready with the boat the sun was already going down so I didn't have time to tweak it any .It rode like crap I need to adjust the stinger the bow was bouncing really badly I could not get over half throttle but I did throw the gps in it and even with all of the hopping the gps showed 36 mph ,under half throttle, so I think I should get some pretty good speeds from this one as soon as the bouncing is calmed.
    yeh she looks lovely mate, got some serious cooling going on. just got a ? about that cf in the bottom of the hull how thick is it? lools like ist molded to the hull contures pretty good and how or what do you use exactly to fix everything? I've got no Idea when it comes to cf but think i need to start learning quick.

  16. #46
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    Oct 2008
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    ky
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    adding weight in front of the motor 4 to 6 ounces will help stop some of the bouncing, there is a thread on this fourm talking about the cog and weight :) and also move your batteries forward to the front of the motor, this should help alot. THE BOAT LOOKS AWESOME

  17. #47
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    If you check out the pic and if you are familiar with the sv27 you'll see I remounted the motor further forward of the stock mount and the batteries were moved forward after the first run but last night I was messing around with the boat and noticed the stinger is aimed a little high so I am betting this is the problem.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  18. #48
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    sorry i didnt notice the motor placement, i do have a sv :) good luck

  19. #49
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    Thanks I'll try to get a video up soon

  20. #50
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    Jan 2010
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    MO
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    Bigdg357
    Reviving a old thread here, just curious if your still around. How did you glue down the motor stringers? I have laid CF in the hull and have some lexan polycarbonate stringers that i would like to put in there, just not sure if strait epoxy is enough, any advice?

  21. #51
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    La
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    Quote Originally Posted by GIESDOG View Post
    Bigdg357
    Reviving a old thread here, just curious if your still around. How did you glue down the motor stringers? I have laid CF in the hull and have some lexan polycarbonate stringers that i would like to put in there, just not sure if strait epoxy is enough, any advice?
    He used this
    http://cgi.ebay.com/EPOXY-RESIN-HIGH...item4838a1abbd

  22. #52
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    The stuff Christaphason linked you to is plenty strong enough it's what I used in all my boats . I have had a few nasty wipeouts and the stuff didn't budge.I would recomend drilling small holes all along the mounting end of the stringers to give the epoxy more to hold on to

  23. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by GIESDOG View Post
    I have laid CF in the hull and have some lexan polycarbonate stringers that i would like to put in there, just not sure if strait epoxy is enough, any advice?
    Are you sure you want to put plastic stringers in the hull? Once cracked or fractured your going to have to replace them. Our RC boats can see huge forces on the hull when they get out of control, like flipping. Carbon fiber flexes, wood flexes, even metal flexes but bends. I dont want to tell you what to do but have you thought about the shear strength of lexan/polycarbonate? The fact that if a crack develops from one of the motor mount screw holes it will continue to spread outward?

    Would like to see pictures if you go ahead with your plans. It will look hitech for sure!

    John
    Change is the one Constant

  24. #54
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    Jan 2010
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    MO
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    I was a little unsure about it. I did some strength testing to make sure it was worthy to put in the boat. I figured if lexan is bulletproof it should do alright. When I worked at an ice hockey arena we used lexan instead of glass, because it's much stronger, and very flexible. I tried breaking a stringer that I messed up with my bare hands and couldn't do it. Well probably could have with gloves but I bent it as far as i felt comfortable, didn't want shards of lexan in my hands or eyes. I have been taking some pictures so I will comtinue posting them. Thanks for the warning though, I hope time and bashing does not prove you right.

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