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How do you keep the soldering iron clean. I use 60/40 solder with a wet sponge for cleaning but to no luck. The iron has no heat control which might be the problem. I have a lot of soldering to do today and would like not to have the hassle, thanks for suggestions!
I just went to a site and showed me the way to do it. Thanks anyway!
I use a moist sponge too, and it works well for me. I have seen pros use what looks like a pot of brass swarf. I am curious as to what the site said, while a sponge works well for me, I am no pro and maybe something else would work better, since I started using lead free solder my tips erode much faster, and maybe the heat cycling of constantly cooling it down on the sponbge and reheating it doesn't help.
I use moist sponge too, never a problem. After you wipe the tip, the tin should be shinny and tightly "coating the tip area", if there is a blob, the only way is to flick it off, a quick wrist movement will do. Just be sure you have a place to flick because the solder balls up to many piece.
As said above, the tip has a definite service life span and it can get eroded and that's when things go south.
A good working tip should always have a layer of tin on the tip that looks shinny and conforming to the the shape of the tip.
I tried both ways and the brass swarf is my second choice as it does no clean and keep the tip shiny as the moist sponge.Gill
Clean iron and tin area and use a wet sponge.
Tried to type more to answer posters but I was proof reading as I go and it doesn't like slow typers!
Best to wrap solder around cold iron after cleaning and plug iron in and all will be great.
NativePaul- Try leaded solder which seems to not blacken iron as much. Best I can help you. I read you guys post a lot. I'm kind of a young loner at 81 1/2. Been at this hobby since 1991.
Also prolonged heating when you have idle time will oxidize the tip, I turn off the rig and let it cool off a bit and wipe with wet sponge again, it will retain the shine, good for next session.....
I just recently got some Hakko FS-100 tip cleaning paste that is supposed to work really well. I can't comment on it myself I haven't had to use any just yet
Seems like the original posted question has been addressed, so now I'll ask - why are you guys still using soldering irons? Are you soldering small electronics (cap banks & such)? 99% of my soldering is bullet connectors, and for that I use a pencil torch. It will do all bullets on an ESC in 60 seconds.
you can,t use a torch on all soldering jobs, thats why we still use the good old soldering iron.
I use that brass wool thing to clean as I solder. After I'm done soldering, I clean it in the brass wool then apply some solder to the iron and shut it off. I use lead-free 4% silver solder.
I also read, in another thread, that the friction/flow of gas over a bullet connector can create a static charge. This could be potentially bad for an ESC. I didn't even know about that. I've used a torch on many ESC's & LiPo's, though, and not yet encountered an issue...maybe I've only been lucky.Quote:
Originally Posted by rol243
I also understand that even a soldering iron should be grounded for sensitive electronics, a lot get away with an ungrounded iron myself included. But i also have a solder station that is grounded as well for smaller work.
I think its easier to clean the soldering iron when it is hot.
Heat it up. Then wipe it with a moist sponge.
You should always clean a tip when hot! If you try and file or use an abrasive material, you can easily remove the thin plating on the tip that allows it to wet with solder easily. Once you lose that, you might as well throw out the tip, it will be nearly useless. It will get things hot, but the solder won’t flow from the tip to the work good at all. Be sure to wipe the tip quickly on your wet sponge when using flux. They are acidic and that will remove the playing too, especially when hot.
I hit the switch and let it cool down just a hair. If you clean the tip with full hot temp, by the time you turn off the rig the tip is oxidized again.
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This helps a gaggle.
Tip Tinner
I don’t have any issues with cleaning my Hako soldering irons tip. I do use a wet sponge and occasionally dip the tip in soldering paste that seems to clean thr tip and leaves it slightly tinned.
My real question to you all is the type of solder you use. I seem to be having issues with ESC to motor connectors coming unsoldered particularly when I run 6S. My motor ESC temps range 130 to 150 F
Damp not wet.
Connectors are not rated at 6S. Silver solder would be best which require more heat to melt. Also your prop maybe to large in mm arena.
I have had a few connectors desoldering in recent times. I have changed them to OSE ones and taking more care in the soldering to make sure there is a better connection.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rezendes
For the ESC to motor connectors I use OSE 6.5mm gold connectors and EC5’s for the battery connections. The prop on the Sonic Wake was modified specifically for the SW and the UL19 is still the stock prop, even though I have upgraded the motor and ESC.
What temperature is the silver solder rated for? Do you know the melting temp of silver solder vs 60/40 rosin core?
Rezendes- Google to find out. I know my big iron melts rosin core pretty fast but for silver solder, the big boy takes longer to melt ss. That's my take. Plumper solder melts faster.