36 inch vintage atlas van lines Dumas build

Printable View

10-01-2019, 07:34 PM
bearstoy

36 inch vintage atlas van lines Dumas build

I need some opinions on putting in a Leopard 4082 1600 kv with a 180 seaking esc in a vintage old style sport 40 dumas Atlas Van Lines kit. Is this a strong enough combo to use for sport running. It is 36 inches long. Should the strut exit thru the floor or be transom mounted like the RTR hydros. This is my first attempt at converting to electric. Is this hull suitable for this kind of conversion? i am open to all suggestions. Thanks
10-01-2019, 10:56 PM
Panchothedog

I did something similar.The exact same motor and speed control running on 6-S in a Dumas pay n pack that I had built as a nitro boat about 30years ago.The boat is 32" in length so not quite as big as yours but let me tell you it had power to spare. Much stronger and faster than the Pico .21 nitro engine it had back in its day. My biggest problem was trying to keep the inside dry. The way it was set up originally it had a water proof radio box but the rest was almost unprotected as many nitro boats were and the hatch just wasn't designed for a tape on seal. I ran it with a solid straight shaft that exited out the bottom of the hull, the stock Dumas hardware that came with the kit when I built it. I would think you have plenty of horse power as is for your 36" hull. Let us know how it goes. Hope your hatch set up allows you to keep it dry.
10-02-2019, 06:38 AM
bearstoy

good tips

Quote:

Originally Posted by Panchothedog

I did something similar.The exact same motor and speed control running on 6-S in a Dumas pay n pack that I had built as a nitro boat about 30years ago.The boat is 32" in length so not quite as big as yours but let me tell you it had power to spare. Much stronger and faster than the Pico .21 nitro engine it had back in its day. My biggest problem was trying to keep the inside dry. The way it was set up originally it had a water proof radio box but the rest was almost unprotected as many nitro boats were and the hatch just wasn't designed for a tape on seal. I ran it with a solid straight shaft that exited out the bottom of the hull, the stock Dumas hardware that came with the kit when I built it. I would think you have plenty of horse power as is for your 36" hull. Let us know how it goes. Hope your hatch set up allows you to keep it dry.

Thanks for the tips. I have modified the hatch by adding a tailfin anyway so i will figure out a seal system. May i inquire as to what prop size you run on this setup? I am thinking an X445 or x447 to start with.
10-02-2019, 03:14 PM
Panchothedog

I think I ran a prather p -220 which is just a tiny bit smaller than the x-445 but has a bit more pitch,and one time I put on a x-448 and it was very very fast but also very uncontrollable . I think your choices of x445 or x447 are a perfect starting point .
10-03-2019, 01:44 PM
785boats

2 Attachment(s)

On boats that have a tricky cowling to seal, I always just tape down a flat sub hatch over the opening in the hull to seal it, & then hold down the main cowling with screws, hatch locks, or magnets etc.
Here's an example.

Ply sub hatches.

Attachment 166680

Cowling in place over sub hatches.

Attachment 166681