Dynamite 120A Marine vs. Hobbywing Seaking 180A V3

Hi there,

Setting up a Pro Boat Sonicwake 36, with the choice to leave the stock Dynamite 120A esc in, or to swap for a new HW Seaking 180A V3 I had laying around.
Motor will be the stock Dynamite one, will be running 6S with a S&B Octura M445 prop.

What's wise here: is that Dynamite 120A up for this all, and actually a pretty solid esc, or would it be better to go with the Seaking 180A V3?
I've heard about Seaking 180's being not all that great, and read about some blowing up, can't seem to find anything like that on the Dynamite 120A.

Please chime in, thanks!

Jeremy,
There is a huge thread on the Sonicwake 36 over on the RCGroups forum that may be worth a read. I have a Sonicwake also that I'm looking forward to my first maiden on 6s but even stock it seems from all I have read to be a hard boat to keep planted on the water. The stock Dynamite ESC should be up to the task but I think the M445 is more prop than stock so you should exercise caution and check your temps after an initial 2 minute run. The instructions also warn against using a larger prop but lots of guys seem to be doing that and getting away with it. I'm going in the opposite direction and my first run will be with an Aquacraft 42/55 in an effort to tame the beast.

I have two Pursuits that have Seaking 180A V3's in them and I've never had a problem but I run them on 4s with M445's.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Capt'n Crash

Jeremy,
There is a huge thread on the Sonicwake 36 over on the RCGroups forum that may be worth a read. I have a Sonicwake also that I'm looking forward to my first maiden on 6s but even stock it seems from all I have read to be a hard boat to keep planted on the water. The stock Dynamite ESC should be up to the task but I think the M445 is more prop than stock so you should exercise caution and check your temps after an initial 2 minute run. The instructions also warn against using a larger prop but lots of guys seem to be doing that and getting away with it. I'm going in the opposite direction and my first run will be with an Aquacraft 42/55 in an effort to tame the beast.

I have two Pursuits that have Seaking 180A V3's in them and I've never had a problem but I run them on 4s with M445's.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

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Hi Capt'n! Thanks a lot for your reply.

Well... where to start here..
I went out for its first series of runs on a big lake, a little choppy waters, but not too bad.
Boat was stock, apart from the sharpened and balanced Octura M445 prop. Running 6S.
I installed the Traxxas TQi radio with telemetry sensors, to keep an eye on motor and esc temps, and after a first good bit of running I can say this:

- The boat is fast! Especially with the M445. 51 mph on gps. But I agree with you and everyone saying that keeping it on the water at full speed is HARD! Keeping it straight is a challenge, and the boat becomes unstable in pretty much all directions.
Not sure if stepping down to the stock stainless prop will help with stability at speed.

- Stock electronics are up to the task - so far. Motor and ESC where both topping out at around 122 *F. Batteries were 'hand warm', so far no crazy temps on wiring on connectors either - and I even swapped to Traxxas connectors! - Since my entire LiPo pile is used in Traxxas trucks.

- The self righting works great and within seconds.

- That boat stand is way too small for the Sonicwake, ridiculous almost to include that one. Will make my own.

Ok, but then... after a good while of running, and after yet another full speed pass, the Sonicwake suddenly nose dives deep at full speed, and resurfaces upsidedown. No self righting, no power, no steering, no nothing.
Traxxas Link app on the phone indicates connection is lost, so I wait for it to drift ashore.

And then this happened:

https://i.imgur.com/XvC7ru1.jpg

Hull torn open, water came in, preventing self righting, not that it would've made a difference, since the impact ejected the batteries out of their straps and disconnected them from the ESC.
Not sure if I was super unlucky here, or if this ABS hull just isn't all that durable.

In any case, no other choice but to order a new hull and to get to the cumbersome job of lifting everything over.
Just not that great of a first series of runs huh...

Man I think you were unlucky with that. One in our club was run over by a gasser and the prop didn't even cut through the ABS. I was quite impressed by that as glass would have been munched.

i wonder if the black hulls are not as strong as the white ones .this isnt the first black hull i seen that has split . i have a white hull version and i bash mine pretty good . getting air ,sending it ,barrel rolls,360`s,flips,submarines,you name it .my hulls fine .except some decal loss .

Well... I guess we'll have to see as soon as I forked everything over from the cracked hull to the new one when it comes in.
I'll have to take it easy to see how the boat will behave this time. Might even go as far as to run on 4S first.

As for the stability at speed: would it be wise to fall back to the stock stainless prop, or should the M445 be fine, still?

I Would contact Chris at dasboata.com, He's the prop master !

OMG...that would make me sick! Such a bummer to have that happen to a brand new boat.
I'm starting to get buyers remorse now before I even run mine but hopefully propping down or running on 4s will help.
I'm not out to set any speed records with mine just want a stable running boat.

You should be able to get a new replacement hull under warranty if I'm not mistaken.
Sorry for your loss.

got to wonder if the flying lipos did that damage .?everyone should be putting velcro on their lipos to secure them to the tray . i do and my lipos have not moved even at 50mph impacts .

The boat does come with extra velcro strips to do just that. Hopefully the OP did not omit that step.
This is not your usual ABS hull as it is quite robust compared to most I've encountered. The boat must have been subjected to tremendous force to do that kind of damage.

Hi all, well... I did NOT use that velcro, so it might indeed have been just that: LiPo's launched internally, causing the damage as seen in the pic.
Still a bit strange, since there's this big styrofoam block in the entire "nose" section that would cushion that launch, if you ask me, in any case to not cause that damage that it did.
After the swap to the new hull I will make sure the LiPo's are tied together, velcro'd to the holders and strapped in with the velcro straps. Can't wait to run it again!

As for props by the way: the M445, although balanced and sharpened has a slightly larger diameter over stock, but is smaller in pitch. Would you guys recommend going back to stock as for speed and stability? Or perhaps to my other available option, a sharpened and balanced X642?

Stock 1.6 x 1.73
M445 1.4 x 1.77
X642 1.6 x 1.65

Hitting the water the wrong way at 50+mph is a bit like tossing a brick at your boat so good to have everything secure. As far as props go I saw a video of the SW with an X642 and he could barely keep it on the water. Some are having good success with X440 3 blade for better handling in corners and good speed. Most of the videos I've seen unless calm as glass has the boat almost out of control with stock prop on 6s. I have also seen several videos of people running the boat stock on 5s with pretty good results. Like everything else it's a bit of a grand experiment until you find the sweet spot for you and your boat. As I indicated earlier I'm propping down for my first run on 6s with an Aquacraft 42x55 which is 42mm diameter 1.3 pitch. I also have a Doctorprops 440/3 blade ready to try.

Thanks for all.
Awaiting hull for repairs/swap over.

What is your opinion on other servo's by the way?
I plan to drop in one Savox SW-1210SG (waterproof, metal gear) I have laying around.
Really liked that one in other applications, like monster trucks.

It's faster at .15 sec @ 6V, waterproof and 277,7 oz-in of torque. Of course a boat wouldn't need that much, but ... overhead, etc.?