I wouldn't sweat it. Steve will get them back in soon, I was in the same boat, but I just kept building and one day they were in.
I'm pretty sure you've got plenty of work to keep you busy in the meantime
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Yeh you're right about plenty of work left! Though I do have plenty of time on my hands this weekend, hoping to have everything mounted on the transom tomorrow.
So is prop sharpening/balancing pretty straight forward? I've only purchased a couple props for my mg, and I bought them s&b. I'd like to try and do it myself though.
You need a balancer, files, sandpaper and respirator. It can be tricky to do well depending on your ability
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Ok well I feel confident about it, being an electrician I feel I can do most anything, since well, kinda have to sometimes.
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Yeh watched a tutorial.... No problem... Think I found something else to spend money on lol
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Make sure you think about the dust you create. You don't want to breathe it in. I use water or oil while filing or sanding. Then clean the mess up after and dispose of the waste. Also think about the dust in your clothes. A regular dust mask probably isn't good enough. I use a $20 3m dual element respirator.
Good advice, that makes sense, thank you!
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No problem :)
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07...4e6b5e5398.jpg
Stuff showed up today! Things are happening again woot! Got the stinger and trim tabs mounted....
This tp motor is beastly! Motor to the back or front? I liked the way lucks came out with the motor to the back personally, and he said he had no issues with leaks...
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Oh hell yeah dude!
Motor looks good rite about there man... Leaves room in front for the esc
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Yeh buddy! Thanks bro! How far off center should the rudder be mounted? I'll just refer back to your thread see how it looks and go from there. Your battery trays, really just used the silicone? Is it mixed with resin or anything? I don't want anything to move, also I remember you saying your servo came lose, what caused that? Thanks luck youda man
Hey luck, also did you just make your stuff tube support out of cf sheet u made? Great idea
Yes sir.
Quick!! Before someone snags it
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ad.php?t=52124
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I just mounted the rudder where it fit, and far enough away from the stinger so when I turn the rudder the prop was still clear of it.
On the trays, yes just silicone. It actually allows movement which is good. If the trays are too stiff they're prone to break loose. I have a tube of it from Keith bradley I'll be happy to send you. It sounds crazy and I couldn't wrap my head around it at first, but it works awesome.
The servo I had originally used cheap glue.
After I re glued with west systems it was fine.
Lmk if you want the silicone bro, no charge.
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Sweet, esc on the way! Thanks for sharing that luck!
Got some other stuff mounted today.... Mainly just have the guts to deal with now. I'll put cooling nipples on later.Attachment 134211
I will be applying lock tite to every screw as well.
Is it recommended to epoxy runners to hull, to mount the motor mount too? Or just mount it directly to the hull?
Nice job on the hardware.
I used some flat cf Rod then mounted on top of that so the mount screws would be more accessible. If you notice, when the mount sits in the hull, some of the Allen screws will be tough to get an Allen wrench in them if needed
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Hahahahahaha HELLO is it me you're looking for!?
Just let your soul glo!!!!
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I read about a few veterans using jb weld for their motor mounts. Is that the way to go? Just looking forte assurance. I was going to use west systems but I'll do whatever is best. Thanks
Jb weld works nice too. Either one honestly, but west is kind of thin, so a thickener like 406 silica helps thicken it up.
I'll pack a ziplock full of 406 in with your silicone to use at your discretion
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I'm putting my motor mount in my mono too. I use jb weld. Here's some tips I've learned if you want to make I look good:
1) use a gram scale. Get the mix exact
2) it's thick. Use a heat gun on low heat to make it flow out. I use a paint brush to feather an blend it.
3) you can use graphite powder to darken it. Beware, it makes it thicker so you'll need to apply heat more often.
4) if you want it black, don't use epoxy dye in it. It makes it flexible. Unless you want that? What I do is after its cured, I scuff it up a little and mix up so cheap, clear 5 minute epoxy, then put 2 or 3 drops of black epoxy dye in it and brush it on. It looks killer when done.
I tried the 406 in my west but I can't get it to flow smooth. I think maybe I got a bad can of it? It's not completely powdery, it has small clumps or bb's in it that's hard to mix in. Maybe someone else who uses it can confirm if this is the way it's supposed to be? If not, I'll order more.
Here's my mono as is right now
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...3BF82ADADF.jpg
Here's a completed motor mount with the above process
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...C2B223714F.jpg