Leaving the nose, and that stick dry fitted, it is now time to fit the front part of the floor pan. First, dry fit it, make sure it fits properly against the frames like so:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...n/DSCF3437.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...n/DSCF3438.jpg
Now hold that floor pan to the frames with some masking tape, ensuring the frames, and the floor pan are nice and square with each other. Once you have that taped, you can start using CA glue to hold the front end cleanly. Don't do more than just a few spots here and there to hold it in place. This will tie the whole front end together.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...n/DSCF3439.jpg
Fit the short pieces you cut off the batten sticks that were on the bottom side of the hull down into the front bottom pan and use them for strength:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...n/DSCF3440.jpg
Now you can put a piece of 3/16"x3/16" batten stick behind the nosing, against the front floor pan. This will strengthen that bond:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...n/DSCF3442.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...n/DSCF3441.jpg
Now you can tie in those top batten sticks to the front nosing area. CA Glue them all in, keeping some weighs on the frame to ensure its as flat as possible:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...n/DSCF3444.jpg
Should look like this after bonded! (Note" the outside top 1/8" x 1/8" batten sticks are not shown in this pic. They can now be put in place)
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...n/DSCF3443.jpg
Here is another pic, with those outside, top batten sticks in place:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...n/DSCF3448.jpg
Now you can fit the quarter round to the bottom of the hull, which will help seal off the front and rear bottom pans:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...n/DSCF3445.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...n/DSCF3447.jpg
You now have the sponsons and center section framing complete. Once you have this done, only the top decks are left to add. Thanks like skid fin aluminum plate should be installed before top deck fitment. Any E-glass or Carbon Fiber needs to be put in the sponson floors to strengthen them. Any E-glass you want in the center section should also be added at this time. Remember, do not bond the sponsons to the center section until the top decks are installed and sanded clean. Here are some pics of where you should be with your hull right now. The sponsons are only dry fitted to the center section:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...n/DSCF3450.jpg
These are the parts you should still have laying around:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...n/DSCF3449.jpg
Here is an example of Carbon fiber in the sponsons and center section. These are your key locations:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...o/DSCF3225.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...o/DSCF3226.jpg
Here is what you will want for a skid fin plate inside the right sponson transom. Aluminum plate so you can tap and die your skid fin bolts:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...o/DSCF3227.jpg
Once you have the above done, you can either start top deck placement, or start fitting your rudder, strut, stuffing tube, etc. Or you can go ahead and put on your top deck skins. Take your time with the sponson top decks. They should be bonded with Epoxy. They have a complex curve, so plan our how you want to hold it in place. I use a construction grade masking tape to hold down the sponson decks. I also use clamps when I have the option. The center section top deck is much easier, just dry fit, make sure it looks correct, and bond it with epoxy. The whole inside of your hull should be fully epoxied at this point before the decks go on!
PLEASE NOTE: The pics below are from the prototype hull. Your center section top decking has a divider so the cowling fits at the front, and the wood hatch is to the back. I took these pics from the prototype kit, and they are missing that feature. I will have pics up in the future showing that better, but until I get that done, this will do. Also note the sponsons, once sheeted, and the center section once sheeted, can then be bonded together using epoxy, and on a flat board.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...o/DSCF3231.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...o/DSCF3232.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...o/DSCF3229.jpg
As you get to this point, you will see the cowling will need to be trimmed. The below pictures show that top deck divider and rear hatch like you kit has. Your hull is like this:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...o/DSCF3290.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...o/DSCF3292.jpg
Cowling nice and trimmed. I like using scissors to cut my cowlings to size. I mark them with a marker while the cowling is still transparent and trim that line!
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...o/DSCF3294.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...o/DSCF3295.jpg
I will add some more updated pics as I get this batch of hulls done. For now, this concludes the build manual. At this point, please feel free to ask questions on this thread! Thanks for your patience, and anyone interested in a kit, or built hull, please contact me at www.ml-boatworks.com, or (252) 717-6282, madaccord@hotmail.com. Kits are $165 shipped for the sport 20, $180 shipped for the sport 20L, and $190 shipped for the Sport 40. Thanks, Mike Luszcz
Have you (or anyone) built and run the sport 40 yet?
I am working on getting the first sport 20L and sport 40hydro kits here asap to get to testing. I already have all the hardware and motors here and ready!
Just wanted everyone to know the 20L and 40 are tested and available. They are now called the GP335 and GP400 respectively. I also have a new 26.5" hull called the GP265 available for 2s lipo or .12 nitro setups. Mike
Now the GP265, GP310, GP335, and GP400 have been completed! Only the GP480 is yet to design and build! Mike
Haven't been on here in a while, but wanted everyone to know the GP series is still alive and kickin! Starting to get feedback from the nitro guys now, and the FE croud has had continued success with them! Mike, www.ml-boatworks.com
Have you got a price for the sport 12?? That would be fun on 2S for N2 sport hydro.
Sorry, got it from the website, Cool.
Hey where can i buy one of these boat kits
Hi, Please go to my website, www.ml-boatworks.com, and go to the online store, and you will find the different sizes there. If you have any questions, please email me at jamesmluszcz@hotmail.com, and I will be happy to answer. Thanks, Mike Luszcz, ML Boatworks
Thank you i found it
You probably already know this, but all of the photos on both here and your site are down.
Thanks for letting me know. I didn't know this was going on. I just went ahead and paid the site to host the pics, that way hopefully this will not happen again! Thanks, Mike
I now have this instuction manual condensed and cleaned up in pdf format. If anyone needs a copy, shoot me a PM with your email and I will forward it! Mike
Just did a few changes to the GP series hydroplanes, and it is now called the V2 hull. Below is the info added to the website. Specs for all 3 sizes are on the website as well.
GP310v2
You may be asking, what is the V2 (change made 7/10/13)? Well, the quarter round location in the center section has been moved forward 2" giving the builder even more room up front and additional height in the battery location, will help the nitro boaters have more radio box depth and will help keep the boat even more stable at speed and reduce blowoff possiblities. Also the sponson teardrop has been narrowed 1/2" to help reduce sponson "airplane" effect on nitro boats as they typically weigh less, lightening holes are added to the engine well in the battery area for more options of wire or fuel line routing and the precut servo mount location has been moved to the right side of the hull, behind the engine area for easier access and right side rudder mounting. Pictures of these changes will be up soon as the original version is what is shown below.
I will post pictures soon as I will be building one very soon for a customer.
GP335v2
You may be asking, what is the V2 (change made 7/11/13)? Well, the quarter round location in the center section has been moved forward 2 1/8" giving the builder even more room up front and additional height in the battery location, will help the nitro boaters have more radio box depth and will help keep the boat even more stable at speed and reduce blowoff possiblities. Also the sponson teardrop has been narrowed 9/16" to help reduce sponson "airplane" effect on nitro boats as they typically weigh less, lightening holes are added to the engine well in the battery area for more options of wire or fuel line routing, and the precut servo mount location has been moved to the right side of the hull, behind the engine area for easier access and right side rudder mounting. Pictures of these changes will be up soon as the original version is what is shown below.
Thanks, Mike
GP400v2
You may be asking, what is the V2 (change made 7/11/13)? Well, the quarter round location in the center section has been moved forward 2 5/8" giving the builder even more room up front and additional height in the battery location, will help the nitro boaters have more radio box depth and will help keep the boat even more stable at speed and reduce blowoff possiblities. Also the sponson teardrop has been narrowed 5/8" to help reduce sponson "airplane" effect on nitro boats as they typically weigh less, lightening holes are added to the engine well in the battery area for more options of wire or fuel line routing, and the precut servo mount location has been moved to the right side of the hull, behind the engine area for easier access and right side rudder mounting. Pictures of these changes will be up soon as the original version is what is shown below.
Another Update. Yesterday I added that the V2 version of the GP310 was complete, and today I am happy to say the V2 version of the GP335 and GP400 are both done as well! The SX400 does not require these changes as they were mostly incorporated already. See above post for more info. The GP265v2 will be finished soon. Mike
I got in a GP310V2 and GP400V2 kit for some customers builds. I will be doing some build threads on these two builds soon. Mike
Version 2 changes have now been done to the GP265 kit, so now all the GP series kits have the updates! Mike
how much for a preassembled gp265?Quote:
Originally Posted by cybercrxt
Hey,
I am working on getting someone to do builds that has the time. We are interviewing him right now, to see how he does. If it all checks out, I will send you his way. I just don't have the time to build anymore. I have a few people on a list, but the list has gotten so old they have probably moved on from me building anything for them. The last year has been busy for sure. Shoot me a PM if you would like to be a possible list for the other guy to build a hull for you. Thanks ,Mike
Q: Right sponson ride pad overhang, how far up the tip of the sponson does the blunt edge go? I blended it flush from the tip to about 2" back. Should I blend it further back, have I gone too far?
Thanks Mike.
.....I see now in post 38, dough!!! No need to blend anymore!!