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I finally got and built my cheetah a few weeks back sadly I couldn't post my build I got affected by the hurricanes Irma and Maria. But anyway I shall post my build it is my first. So please tell my what I did wrong and what motor should I get to go faster in the future or what prop I should get. Setup leopard 4092 1730kv 642 detounged cnc prop.
We need more information....
- voltage?
- ESC?
- current speed?
- desired speed?
- pics of install and transom?
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ESC 180a seaking 6s desired speed 70 + hopefully
That’s a bunch of motor... at some point, you’re just using more current to do the same job of a smaller motor. I would think a 4082 is ample for the boat. Kv sounds about right. Nice choice on the starting prop. Very prudent to start with a smaller blade. Many get to a 445 or 446 size blade after setup optimization.
I hope you weren’t hurt too badly from the hurricanes. Terrible thing to go thru!
I thought the motor would be to much but I did it because I reinforced the hull with fiber glass.
Well I was hoping to change my leopard to a neu some day. I find that my ESC is kinda warm it's the v3 is there any way to increase the cooling? It has holes that could be used but it has 2 capacitors in the way.
Pushing the Chertah into the 70s is possible but the hull works better in the 60s. Either way, he doesn’t have enough prop for that hull and motor to get there - too small in diameter and an inadequate pitch. BTW, it would be helpful if the OP answered all my questions. We aren’t mind readers.
Actually the motor size is large but okay, a club member used a 4092 (different Kv) in his boat and hit 70 on 4S. For the OP’s boat he’ll need an x648 at the least to hit high 60s. But that ESC won’t like it, that Kv on 6s will pull a lot of amps. It has nothing to do with cooling, the ESC will most likely be over-amped or run too long. “Kinda warm” is meaningless, what is the actual temp, how long was it run and what kind of running - long straights or lots of tight turns?
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Sorry I don't have the specific temperature but the runs were straight and I ran for about 10 minutes. If I run tommorow I will get you the temps.
Careful over amping the v3 I pushed one a little too hard last year lol
Attachment 154926
I shall I was thinking about buying a 220 sword fish but I heard they kinda give trouble so yeah .
The new "X" series seem pretty nice, and good prices.
10 minutes is about 4 times longer than you should be running.
Similar but not the same, but for comparison.
Ive run a DF explorer at 70-75mph with your setup with a octura x450/3 blade. But only for a short burst in a straight line, then allow to cool. If i try to run for much longer I have esc heat issues.
Your current speed (question#3) is more important, what is too slow for you? Actually it is a good thing that you ran such a small prop, ten minutes with a high draw setup will burn things up. Going to a SF220 won’t help with that issue.Quote:
Sorry I don't have the specific temperature but the runs were straight and I ran for about 10 minutes. If I run tommorow I will get you the temps.
Ten minutes of “straight” runs can be very rough on the ESC and motor because each run includes strong acceleration. This is what really draws the amps, once on step and at speed the amp draw drops substantially. We know you are new to this, we are trying to help, not to discourage you. There is plenty to learn, pick you references carefully.
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Never had a lick of trouble with them, I own 3. The LVC comes on without delay, I disabled it and run a timer... They are good work horses!Quote:
Originally Posted by Brothers 1718
I guess the 220sf is back on the shopping list.Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fluid
I shall take what you said on board impart your knowledge. Currently living noob life . I need to check the temps and speed when I run tommorow I don't have a GPS yet but I can figure something out. Money is kinda tight.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fluid
I shall take what you said on board impart your knowledge. Currently living noob life . I need to check the temps and speed when I run tommorow I don't have a GPS yet but I can figure something out. Money is kinda tight.
On the LVC, most of these problems are caused by excessive voltage drop from the batts to the ESC. This can include too small of wire, weak solder joints, too small or too many electrical connectors. Given the wide range of construction techniques and beliefs, I’m amazed that any ESC based LVC’s actually work! The timer is nearly fool proof. Your smart phone probably has a timer on it....
But disabling the bec will can also lead to failure. Excessive low voltage, over a run can cause issues. I like to lower mine to 3v for racing and 3.2v for sport use.
I was just about to clear coat my boat this week so I could post all the pictures from the build one time when a little miss hap happened and. This was the result. A 18 inch crack running on the seem all the way through the fiberglass but not through the carbon Kevlar. How do I fix it fiberglass on the inside and the outside. Or just let the boat sit until I have the money to get carbon fiber.
True only if the LVC is disabled AND you ignore/don’t use a timer. I leave about 30 seconds extra (bring in early) so I avoid issues. Timers only work with known setups. Use your LVC on new setups or batts, until you get familiar with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Steven Vaccaro
A 4092 is not too big of a motor. It’s actually the size I prefer. Anyone who’s ever owned a cheetah knows that it’s a big, wide hull that likes to run wet and takes power to push. I’ve built several. Personally I’d skip the sf220 for this hull and use a sf300. This hull can be an amp hog if you can’t get it to run loose with out blowing over. A abc 1915-17-45 works well on this hull. The motor you have is just fine. Upgrade the esc and prop. That setup will go about 70 on 6s if you have everything dialed in.