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Hello team!
I finally purchased a hull I had always wanted, a Liftmaster.
Then, I changed my order to a Twin, Oval sponsons,
It will be powered by a par of Neu 1521, 1Y (1577 KV)
Castle XLX2 ESC,
CHNL 90C, 6S
Power HD, 25 KG servo
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...3&d=1647542412
Up next is some basic component layout
The wood block are just to get some approximate angles and clearances.
The CG is going to be farther back than Randy's set-up because I am using longer motors, poorly packaging ESC and a big battery.
Lucky for me, I have yet to drill the boom tubes in my sponsons, so I can make adjustments to get the % weight distribution correct.
Edit: According to Randy, this design is not super sensitive to the CG location.
his set up, cg is 75%
Mine: CG will be at 67%
The sponson step will be positioned in the default location.
Randy says the having the sponsons out in front have the advantage of making the boat more stable, acting like a larger boat.
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...4&d=1647564671
prepping the hardware for rough polishing.
The goal is to get it to just 400 grit smooth,
Then send it off to get powder coated, a bright green (ILLUSION GREEN ICE from Prismatic Powders), as seen in the sample image
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...5&d=1647704778
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...7&d=1647716585
What a beautiful Hull! This is going to be quite a quick boat from the looks of the power/weight ratio!
I dont know much about liftmaster, do they have a website or anything I can look at?
Certainly one of the ‘Bucket list’ boats to build Larry. Very nice choices made.
Bbyracing.com
I had some tubing to bend up, so I thought i would post my process.
Makes quick , clean work
I measure out the tube, and where I want to cut it. Using a tubing cutter and a cordless drill.
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...7&d=1648340165
Once the tubing is cut, I use a file with the drill in reverse to clean up the interior ends
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...6&d=1648340147
To prevent an funny stuff or kinks, I like to use a old flex to as support to the interior of the tube.
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...5&d=1648340130
Standard small diameter tubing bender. The still can still kink the tubes if the tubing is not interior supported
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...4&d=1648340100
I use the cordless drill on low in reverse to get the flex out.
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...2&d=1648339849
finished, and ready for solder.
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...3&d=1648340079
I found a solder for dis-similar metals!! Melts at 600F, abobe the powercoat temp of 400F
UniWeld 4300! Works well.
ESC cooling covers customized
Thanks StumpFab!!!
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...1&d=1648339784
Cooling cans, with mods to fit nicely into the Liftmaster
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...0&d=1648503691
That's slick! I'm going to rework the water lines (now including some hardline) on my big mono and use these ideas, thank you!
So, Randy's machining skillz are on point.
the strut bracket he made have such tight tolerances, that if I powder coat the struts, they would not fit in the original parts!!!
The solution is to mod the struts plates, but how much?
For the powder coat I'm using, the thickness will be about 3 mills, or about 3/1000 of an inch = 0.0762 mm. Since the struts will be coated on both sides, that is 0.1524 mm of powder coat, about the thickness of a 400 grit sand paper I have on hand.
Original strut plate thickness = 1.5 mm. Target strut thickness = 1.5- 0.1524 = 1.34 mm
After some quality time with a belt sander, I got them right.
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...1&d=1648656615
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...0&d=1648656602
Other have used a Flare tool to on the end to stop the rubber tube from sliding off with the aid of a zip tie.Quote:
Originally Posted by autolex
I have had great luck with using silicone glue over the ends to hold the tubing on.
Those hardline connections on the water jackets are awesome. Great idea.
Well, its been a while since I updated this thread.
Issues with the powder coater. I whent with a contact in a friends group. That was a mistake. They may do good work, but they were so backlogged that after 9 mots, they sent me my parts back.
I want to a near by shop (https://www.supremepowdercoatings.com/) and they did a fantastic job. All threads masked, masking on inyrtrface areas and everything. It all fits really well.
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...6&d=1681739549
Nice. One never knows how a vendor is going to treat you before hand. That color will look nice against the blue hull ! don wait 9 months to show the video once you get it up and flying!!!
Team, sorry, but I skipped he part of drilling the sponsons.
Up next was gluing the sponsons boom tubes.
(NOTE: Randy normally does the is step, but I asked if I could do it. He works with his buyers!!)
First part is xeroing out the table you are working on
Attachment 177953
I made some wedges that are at the initial AOA of 3.5 Degrees
Attachment 177954
Once securing the wedges to the sopnsons in the correct location, its time to glue the boom tubes.
Attachment 177955
I am clamping a right angle to the interior of the sponson because the sponson has a dihedral