Servo Plug Connection Question

Hello group,

I have a question about my ProBoat Shockwave 26 (Brushed)

The summer of 2014 was a fun learning experience with this boat. However, towards the end of the season, probably Aug-Sep I noticed some servo issues when I would plug the battery in and run the boat the servo seemed to want to lock at full turn and no longer move. I had to remove and re-center the servo arm that attaches to the rudder. I am wondering if the corrosion on the plug is causing the issue?

I took the cover off the servo, nothing looks out of the ordinary and everything moves freely. So, what are my options?

Replace just the plug?
Replace that servo wire and plug together?
Replace the servo entirely?

On a broader topic I get water in the boat constantly, I will be digging into that soon, I believe the transom fittings are loose or leaking because I get probably half a cup of water in the boat every run, and I believe that's how the plugs got wet. Had I had brains enough to disconnect and wipe them when done running it might not be an issue? I'd much rather have a dry hull though. I have re-greased the cable after every 4-5 runs, so I do not suspect water is gaining entry through the stuffing tube.

That is very corroded! Do you run in salt water or fresh water?

If you open up your servo it's most likely wet inside and small chance for recovery.

You need some Corrosion X !!

Is this the servo with the silver in the middle? If so they are water proof.

It is the stock Dynamite "waterproof" servo. I run in a large freshwater lake and a retaining pond behind my house. Like I said, everytime I run it and the hull is wet the plugs get submerged when I drain the water. My guess is they are probably staying wet while connected and corroding until I discovered this issue. Corrosion X is definately on my list of things to grab, especially since we are getting into the world of short course trucks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tamelesstgr

Hello group,

I have a question about my ProBoat Shockwave 26 (Brushed)

The summer of 2014 was a fun learning experience with this boat. However, towards the end of the season, probably Aug-Sep I noticed some servo issues when I would plug the battery in and run the boat the servo seemed to want to lock at full turn and no longer move. I had to remove and re-center the servo arm that attaches to the rudder. I am wondering if the corrosion on the plug is causing the issue?

I took the cover off the servo, nothing looks out of the ordinary and everything moves freely. So, what are my options?

Replace just the plug?
Replace that servo wire and plug together?
Replace the servo entirely?

On a broader topic I get water in the boat constantly, I will be digging into that soon, I believe the transom fittings are loose or leaking because I get probably half a cup of water in the boat every run, and I believe that's how the plugs got wet. Had I had brains enough to disconnect and wipe them when done running it might not be an issue? I'd much rather have a dry hull though. I have re-greased the cable after every 4-5 runs, so I do not suspect water is gaining entry through the stuffing tube.

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That may be reason to assume so, but I have had water entering thru the tube despite the fact that I grease it every run. One way is to cut a short length ( no more than 1/2", usually 3/8") of a silicone fuel tube and slide it over on the tube just below the collet. As for your suspicion that water is entering thru the hard ware on the transom, you can load the boat up and put it in a tub and do a static test, wait for several minutes and see if there is water.
You can either use plumber's putty or if you do not plan to paint the hull, use silicone sealant. ( silicone is a PITA if you plan to paint the hull later, but it seals well)

If water was entering through the tube, wouldn't I see it splashed up on the canopy and the hull? Typically when I re-grease it I get some splatter in an even line around the end of the stuffing tube.

In regards to the hull, I can see stress cracks in the ABS arond the turn fins, and it's usually pretty shoppy when I run at the lake, so that was my reasoning for the leakage. I plan on testing in the tub, and will probably pull all the hardware anyway because I want to reseal with solicone and also add some type of backing to support the hardware (oh, also upgrade to stainless)

Yes, there is splash...
Make sure you do all the glue work before using any silicone. That stuff is hard to get off once applied, hence some people will not touch it with a 10 ft. pole, lol....

So, back to the servo:

replace plug?
replace plug and wire?
replace servo?

Given the history you gave, replace the servo. Open it up and soak with CorrosionX. .

Darn, looks like the connections in the reciever and ESC are corroded as well. There has to be a plug replacement and maybe a crimping tool?

Will Corrosion X get rid of the corrosion on the plugs and wires, or do I need to just replace?

It will not dissolve the corrosion, if that's what you mean, but you can spray into the plugs and use a tooth brush to clean and you will be surprised how much of that stuff can be brushed out.

Actually vinegar or CLR might remove the corrosion, just soak it overnight and see. Brush it out the next day and add some rust inhibitor like wd40 or something until you get some Corr. X...

If you want to try to remove the corrosion, I would recommend removing the servo contacts from the plug first. In your second picture you can see the little tab that holds the wire in place, lift the tab with something small, I use the tip of my xacto blade, and slide the wire/contact out. Soak as above or use alcohol and an acid brush with the bristles cut short to scrub each contact carefully. Flush out the plastic connector body, squirt your favorite WD40 on the contacts and reinsert into the connector body.

For the RX, disassemble the plastic body, clean as above with alcohol (contact pins and circuit board) flush with alcohol, treat with your favorite WD40 and reassemble.

I personally prefer corrosion x as well, but if you got WD, I'd use it for now.

Double check the tightness of any connectors on your servo arm, this could be the reason for the messed up throw.

As for care of a model, I'm pretty anal, I pull and clean the shaft after each run and leave the shaft out until the next run when I relube and insert. I also use my air compressor to blow the water out of every nook and cranny, dry the hull, and store it with the cover off. If I know that water got in my hull I squirt a little corrosion x into the motor, put a drop of speed lube on the bearing and run for a second or two on the bench.
I know this sounds like a PITA, especially when I run 5 or 6 boats at the lake, but a beer in my hand makes the ritual a pleasant experience and as a result my boats last a lot longer than my carefree neighbors ;)

Happy Boating my friend!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tlandauer

It will not dissolve the corrosion, if that's what you mean, but you can spray into the plugs and use a tooth brush to clean and you will be surprised how much of that stuff can be brushed out.

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Tooth brush is a great idea Tim, thanks. I get stuck in the Navy way of thinking, acid brushes and isopropyl alcohol. I may start raiding the kids toothbrush supply!
Actually, my son's sonicare is acting up lately...that might end up in MY toolbox, ultrasonic corrosion control. Guess he'll get a new one after all! ;)

I had some time last night. Took the pins out of the plastic connector and soaked in baking soda and water, scrubbed and rinsed. Blew off with compressed air and reassembled. Plugged in the reciever and esc. The servo's got the "jitters" it just goes all over the place. I tried the throttle and that seems to be working fine in forward and reverse.

I was thinking I better make sure I test the reciever with a good servo from our traxxas slash as well to rule that out.

Purchased a new stock servo and everything is acting normally. Time to address the water issues and Corrosion X necessary components.