Extending the trim tabs really do anything???

Hey guys. New to the forum and new to RC. My first post actually...
Anyway, I got my Rio a few months ago and have been working on it with some help and suggestions from a local hobby shop. They suggested as soon as I converted to brushless to extend the trim tabs as long as I could to help stabilize the boat. Never really ran it on the original ones on the brushless set up. I see a lot of talk about chine walk and torque roll over on the Spartan post (just bought one of those). But I don't think I've had any issues with chine or torque roll. Either I'm just not fast enough yet for those problems or maybe the long tabs help. What do you guys think? Now don't laugh at my handy work now. Don't have the time or tools to do very pretty work yet.
I think I made the tabs out of a little bit too thick of metal. I think I'm pushing the nose of the boat into the water too much. Very twitchy at higher speeds. When I try and bend them up manually, I have to push so hard, I've heard the transom crack, so just kinda leave them where they are for now. Will probably make them the same but thinner material later and buy some of the adjustable tab set ups I see on OSE store.
Anyway... tell me what you think about the theory.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=72yE4kPh6es
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzka8p2xe5Q
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...pictureid=5844
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...pictureid=5849
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...pictureid=5843

Look like it running wet, But not bad.
You have a lot of drag from the hardware, The trim tabs i would cut in half, The size you have.
Did you try and sandind the bottum of the boat yet with #400 GRIT ? It help with planing.
What is your setup ? Motor size and kv, Esc , Prop, Cells.
Have any pictures of in side of hull ?

I've not tried sanding the bottom w/ 400. I have automotive basecoat clearcoat all over the boat. I've sanded the bottom w/ 1500 and 3000 and buffed and polished perfectly flat. Are you saying actually having the bottom w/ a 400 grit scratch might be better than a perfectly smooth bottom?

I've got the Velineon 3500 Waterproof system and I added the ESC cooling fan. 3500 KV. This is my system though..

I hate to say this... but I honestly don't remember what prop I put on. Again, local hobby shop recommended and I bought. Don’t understand pitch numbers and effects yet etc....

I put both a 2C 7.4 in it most of the time. I have put 11.1 3C in it too but it's almost uncontrollable with that one in it.

Pictures of inside of hull in my Albulm under my profile.

Yes #400 scratch, It creates a air gap under the hull and creates less drag.
I have been modding my stock rio ep a lot !!!!!!!
Looking to go brushless soon.
How are your temps on motor, esc ,cells, for a 3 minute run ?

Another stupid newbie question... but how do you guys check your temps? I've got one of those laser gun things I use to check my tire temps on my car at the race track. Can I just use that? If so, do I point it at the outside of the waterjacket and the side of the ESC? I've never checked temps. I've never had it cut off due to temps. I think that fan I have helps a lot probably. I'll check em for ya next time I put it in the water. Probably this weekend sometime mabye.

Yes that will work, point at back and front of motor shaft, and at hottest spots on esc & cells and connectors, After a 3 min run.
With cowl hatch on there is no new air flow for esc, I like water cooled esc.
Very nice paint job on your boat, I have a daytona cat i need to paint soon.

Okay, cool, I'll do that. What's a normal range of temps it should stay within?
I thought about drilling to holes in the fake air intake on the lid but thought it might actually cause positive air pressure in the hull and blow the lid off maybe.

Yes me to, But if it flips that not going to be good either,
I have some air filter material that lets air in but not water, But i need to do some testing with
it before i cut any holes in the cowl.
Any gps on speeds of your boat ?
Also get the water temp you are running in, Temps not shore but i like 130 f on motor and stuff or less.

Ahh, that filter material sounds interesting. No GPS. Don't have one of those yet. Haven't even research them. They expensive? Which one is everybody using? My dad said the other night i was keeping dead even with us in the boat on smooth water at 32. I wasn't full throttle. It gets too twitchy in the stearing. Like I mentioned before. I think my nose is too low in the water. I wanna bend the tabs up some to let the nose lift more.

You do not need that much tab off the back, 1" or 1 1/2" tops !!!
Less drag is better,
I am running just one rudder to the right for less drag, The stock hardware is very loose, At stock speeds.lol That could be your problem at high speeds.
Gps is cheap $50.00 or less ebay or craigslist.
But you have a big boat with speedo, So that works to.
I need to get a gps to.

You are right, the stock hardware was very loose. I don't know if you noticed in my pictures, but I put a reinforcement brace across the back of the twin rudders to hold those two from flexing away from each other at speed. That helped a lot. I was thinking about dropping to one though. I don’t know if I have the correct stuff or ability to fill the holes when I remove one rudder. Honestly, I think the boat runs pretty good, I probably won’t change a whole lot now. I bought a Traxxas Spartan I’m about to start working on. Watching that forum pretty close right now..
Find a deal on GPS, let me know and I'll jump in there with ya

If you can paint like that !
Than you can fix a hole hear or there. lol
Its the little thing that add up with modding what you all ready have,
Just think or look before you jump into something, On hear Q&A we all try to help, Some times!
What did you do with your stock motor and esc ?
May be i could use it if still good.
Find out what size prop you have, The stock prop is a 42mm x1/4 pitch i think.

Found my stock motor and esc. You are welcome to it. email me where you want it sent to and I'll get it out in the next day or so if you like.

Chris, pm sent.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by lenny

...
I have some air filter material that lets air in but not water, But i need to do some testing with
it before i cut any holes in the cowl.....

---

Any word on that air filter material?

Sorry not yet, The motor i was running did not have vent holes in it,
So i do not think it would have made much difference with temp.
Also need make or mod a cowl.
Did you get any temps yet ?

I would agree that venting the cowl would not change motor or ESC temps much, with the exception of the stock motor/ESC, which clearly needs more cooling (ESC needs a water-cooled cold plate). But on a hot day I imagine it will get warm in that compartment, and every little bit helps when it comes to thermal management, so I am interested in a material that would vent air but not let water in (not so much, anyhow).

Also I don't like having a fake vent, so I would like to make it functional for cosmetic reasons.

(I do not have any temps, though I do have a IR gauge, because my Rio is in drydock waiting for its brushless motor to be selected. But more on that in another thread, sometime.)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by lenny

If you can paint like that !
Than you can fix a hole hear or there. lol
Its the little thing that add up with modding what you all ready have,
Just think or look before you jump into something, On hear Q&A we all try to help, Some times!
What did you do with your stock motor and esc ?
May be i could use it if still good.
Find out what size prop you have, The stock prop is a 42mm x1/4 pitch i think.

---

I was cleaning out the garage yesterday and actually ran across the old package for my prop. It's a Octura X640.