King of Shaves rebuild

Hey guys. I am picking up a King of Shaves 35" P1.

Give me some tips on what to run it at/on!
I want to 4s packs in parallel. This is a boat for choppy runtime, as is my FASTech(s).

What prop?
What Rudder?
Stinger Drive or normal strut?
Motor?
ESC?
Tabs?
Fins?
Almost all info is appreciated. I have read through several other threads on this hull and but they are a bit outdated....lol

So far I have planned for a P215, SK180V3, OSE Speedmaster hardware, 4074 (2200kv).

Reason for a P215 is it is stainless and I run in salt.... The brass props look ugly after a few runs...

Travis, I hope you watching.... This project will be at your door soon... lol

Thanks in advance!

:popcorn2:

If it is for the chop a 447/3 should be the nice prop. Possibly smaller 3 blade for runtime. Look to PropShop for stainless. http://www.prop-shop.co.uk/products....purpose&page=4

And I think some sort of adjustable strut to make optimizing for water conditions should be in order.:biggrin:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kfxguy

:popcorn2:

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I'll be eating popcorn after I send it you you!
Lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by srislash

If it is for the chop a 447/3 should be the nice prop. Possibly smaller 3 blade for runtime. Look to PropShop for stainless. http://www.prop-shop.co.uk/products....ose&page=4

And I think some sort of adjustable strut to make optimizing for water conditions should be in order.:biggrin:

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You don't think the 3 blade will cause some torque roll since its a narrow hull??
I will try a 3 blade first and see how she is. I am going to add a pump that runs off the RX so when people stop me and ask about it it can cool off... Getting ready to run my Rivercat again!

A three shouldn't cause the torque roll once set up right. Enjoy that cat.

i replaced the original ruder with OSE #80057 this is a direct bolt on to the transom. I drilled holes on the bracket and used the original water pickup not the one on the ruder. I also cut the rudder and rounded the bottom front edge.
I am using the original motor mounts. I am running the Leopard 2860 2550 kv 120esc and 36m props on 3s. she only runs 36.7mph.
I ordered a set of SPC 4s and 40m props she should do 45+ I will be happy.
is your a new hull and canopy or used with motors. I am looking for a 380 2700kv outrunner for a Segad

Disregard my post, its late and I did not read P1 just KOS, this crap is not going to help your build at all. LOL

So I found a video that mentions specs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9k1xi2peAyM

Any thoughts on SK120V3, 3650 (1840kv) with an x445/x447 OR Prather 225?
Or what about a 3674 (1700kv)?
I need help! lol

For this hull I would recommend:

Motor: Leopard 4082 2200kv - http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...o-4082&cat=148

ESC: Mystery 200a - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mystery-RC-2...item461262aa44

My first ESC choice would be the tried and true Turnigy 180 but i dont even see them offered on Hobbyking)

Prop: x548 - http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=oct-x548

Oh, and this rudder and 3/16 stinger

Rudder: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80050

Stinger: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...os-stinger-str

Thanks! I would like to have separate cooling lines (I run in the heat and I tend to have an aggressive trigger finger...) I think I'm going to go with the suggested stuff except I want a SS prop and a SK180-V3.

If I went with this rudder: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=ros-spdr-012

How much setback should I choose? 4" or 5"?

4" setback will work well. The seaking 180 is the same as the turnigy T180 at twice the price, thats why i didnt recommend it, however if you are willing to spend the money thats the one i would get, great choice. Try to keep the prop in the 46-48mm range.

The prather s225 should be a good fit.

Thanks again! I have a small discount code that knocks off a few bucks... Reason for wanting a SS prop is the bass ones kind of turn ugly-ish since I am a salt runner. Would the Castle 1515 @ 2200kv work?
Also maybe a 230 that gets cut down a bit? I want to run in 6"+ chop but when it happens to be glass I want some speed. This will be my boat wake jumper.
When I get a few bucks I'll start ordering parts, then they will go off to Travis (kfxguy) to be installed. I found a nice deal on 1515 so that's why I'm curious...

I made a post right above yours that you may not have seen. The Castle is not really that much better of a motor than the Leopard, plus at 40 x 74mm it is smaller then the 40 x 82mm Leopard. The Castle motor is good for 28-33" hulls in my opinion

A 1515 is a pretty powerful motor. I prefer it much more over a leopard. That's just my opinion.

Now I'm not sure... If I get a 1515 I have more room for lipos, if I get a 4082 then less lipo room...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kfxguy

A 1515 is a pretty powerful motor. I prefer it much more over a leopard. That's just my opinion.

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Leopard motors are clones of the Castle motors basically. 4 poles and all. In this case the larger Leopard motor puts out more power/watts.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Spartanator

Now I'm not sure... If I get a 1515 I have more room for lipos, if I get a 4082 then less lipo room...

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Is an extra 8mm of motor length gonna cramp lipos in a 35" hull??

A couple of these in parallel would move that boat out well, they would give you 10,000 mah and 400 continuous amps!



http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...Lipo_Pack.html

I would like to run it on 2 4s SPC 6500 lipos (already have 1). I don't think this hull 35" but that doesn't matter too much.
How about these trim tabs?
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-83020
I wouldn't get blue, I like the silver...

I don't have the boat yet so it may be a complete "turd" but who knows... Lol any one interested in stock Tronics?

Those tabs are kinda overkill length-wise and price-wise, If it were mine I'd throw these on: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=ros-spdt-150

I looked at those but the ones in the link I posted grab my attention. We will see I guess! lol
I don't know how much transom room I have either (yet).

Just wondering if you got the boat yet...? I think, when you do, your plans may change a bit unless you want to gut the hull and do at least one layer of carbon fiber. That hull is paper thin, man. I mean if you try to pick it up by the bow, the clearcoat & paint will crack from the hull flexing under the weight of the stock electronics. Be very mindful of this if you want the clearcoat/finish to continue looking nice, and void of spiderweb cracks. Also, check out how the transom curves at the top. The Venom strut and rudder on that boat is machined to follow that concave curve. Going to create an extra step of machining the rudder mount to follow the contour of the transom if you change up the hardware back there. Because I'm afraid of overpowering this hull, I'm only putting an Aquacraft 3656 2030kv in mine after the cf inlay is finished. I'm mounting battery trays on the floor for a pair of 2s LiPo's in series, just to save weight. I put a 4500mAh 3s hard-case LiPo in it and that seemed like a lot of weight for the hull. Member tlandauer has one of these also and has done a carbon inlay in his. He can offer advice. He kept the stock outrunner motor and runs on a pair of 2s LiPo's even after the cf inlay... I'm running an X640 prop, same as tlandauer.

I did get the boat, it's way too thin! I'm even debating if I want to put it in the water... Travis will be dropping an inlay (maybe 2) on this one. Hopefully the rudder I send him he can work on the bracket to fit the transom. I'm kind of think I will have a low powered setup on 3s 6500mah... I'm scared that I will break it! I put one of my SPC 2s 8200mah packs and that's a bit much on size.. But yep, pretty much a complete rebuild.. Sold most of the spare parts already.