To Strake or Not to Strake.......
That is the question.
I've been running the Micro Scat Cat Twin without strakes and for the first few outings and this one will run without strakes as well. I've been thinking of how I could come up with some really sharp, smooth strakes with the proper angles. I think I have an idea. I ordered some 5mm phenolic sheet and I can cut off small angled strips to use for the strakes. My research on strakes shows they can be as much as 5 degrees below horizontal for some additional lift at the cost of a very small amount of drag.
My plan is to makes some strakes from the aforementioned phenolic sheet and temporarily attach them with rubber cement. If I notice a significant improvement, I'll paint them to match the hull and attach them with some epoxy.
What do you guys think about adding strakes on such a small hull as this? Will it make a big enough difference to warrant all the extra work?
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Just another reason The Doctor recommends micros
Safe easy transport and storage in a handy-dandy gun case. :cool2:
Time to Resurrect This Old Thread
The little Cat project hasn't died, it's just had a rearrangement in my priority list. :olleyes:
What's been delaying it is the need for strakes. What has something seemingly so easy been such a huge delay you ask? :confused1:
Because I want strakes so sharp they will cut your fingers to shreds if you mishandle them, :scared: I have been pondering how I could make something that is the length needed (14" or so), and the width and depth as well. The piece would have to have a 100% consistent width and depth throughout its entire length, so that means some sort of machining process that can be repeated. That also means the strake has to be made of a hard material that is easily machinable, rigid, but somewhat flexible, with a smooth ride surface that is 100% flat and does not require any additional finishing.
I wouldn't want to use most woods because I don't think they are hard enough to have the necessary consistency for the machining process. Carbon fiber is too expensive where the strength really isn't needed. The solution? G-10 (a fiberglass laminate product).
Now, how to cut it? A table saw comes close, but because of the tiny dimensions (1/4" high and maybe 3/32" thick) I don't think the consistency would be there and thus the long time to come up with a solution. What to do? :confused2:
Eureka! I have an idea.... :spy: I'm going to mill a slot in a piece of aluminum such that a square strip of G-10 I cut on the table saw will slide in the slot. Along one side face of the slot. I'll install a linear wave spring to keep the G-10 in constant pressure on the other side of the slot. I'll make a bolt-on top with another wave spring to fully capture the G-10 strip I cut on the saw, yet allow it to slide in and out the slot I created. Then I can clamp this aluminum block at the proper deadrise angle to the bit in my milling machine. I can then locate the mill bit such that pushing the G-10 through the slot engages it it the cutter and Voila`!! I have the pre-finished G-10 surface as the ride surface with a REALLY sharp edge that will require little to no fairing in to the hull bottom and have a razor-sharp chine. Best of all, this is REPEATABLE.
Stay Tuned
:cool2: