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I made my maiden voyage last night. Wow, she is fun to drive - quick too. I love the rooster tail.
And what a difference from "No Wake" to Planing.
I didn't have time to play around with adjustments because it was getting dark and starting to lightning. But this is what it was doing.
The water was extremely smooth. At full speed the boat rides high and wobbles side-to-side. Should I move the batteries forward?
I can't believe how heavy she is with NiMH batteries in her belly.
My SV27 is setup different but when mine starts to chine walk, wobble side to side, I just add a small amount of rudder by slightly turning the wheel at full speed.
Should check your COG, I forgot the percentage, for monos I seemed to remember between 27-30%. Measure the length of the hull and x 0.27 or .30, in the case of your boat it is 685 mm long and if you choose 30% then you get 205mm. Use a ruler and measure away from transom 205 mm. You then mark that point with a marker. The COG of course is towards the transom--sure you know that already. Now with the batteries in the boat move them forward and backward until the boat balances on that marked point. Real serious and technical guys balance the boat on a rig or something. I just place the hull on both of my index fingers until the hull no longer tips to either direction. ( bow and transom) .
Run the boat with a more or less correct COG then correct the side-to-side wobbles---usually that means the trim tabs need to be adjusted.
if you have only one set of batteries, make one pass and determine, look at the boat carefully. I recently adjusted a DF26, took many days because each adjustment is so incremental, be patient and that is actually the fun part .
Forgot to say that you need to check the stinger , that also affects the attitude of the boat, but I would check the COG first.
Great help guys. I moved the batteries forward a tad from where I had them last night and did glide smoother.
Some pix of my run yesterday
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y.../IMG_04271.jpg
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y.../IMG_04201.jpg
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y.../IMG_03981.jpg
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y.../IMG_03831.jpg
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y.../IMG_04361.jpg
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y.../IMG_03851.jpg
These pics. look great, glad that you are having fun, the boat looks like it is handling these big waves with ease!
:beerchug:
Thanks!!!
Took her out today, for the holiday. I ran with the life size boats with their life size WAVES. The boat loves to bounce of the waves (only 4-6" tall). The water is a No Wake area. (actually the entire lake today) I was the fastest boat there!
She disappeared underwater twice and did a back~flip another time (landed upside down).
Only a little water got inside after all that. I have been using electrical tape.
I broke the plastic prop after all this too.
Time to flush out the motor and lube the shaft.
Kent,
Awesome pics. The boat looks great, even sitting still. try out kintecracing.com or fightercatracing.com for some great aluminum props. theyre cheap and don't need to be balanced.
Travis
Ok, so Monday night I loosened the Shaft Coupler and pulled the flex cable out. I wiped it off and a then applied Grim's Speed Grease along the entire cable. I also placed a glob at the opening of the Stringer. Then, re inserted the cable back in the boat moving the cable back & forth as it went in. I'm not boating again until Wednesday or Thursday so I took the flex cable back out and am storing it greased in a Zip Lock bag. Is this best? Or what is the time frame for storage? I will re-grease it when I bolt it back in.
I have not used the WD-40 yet. What do I do?
I disconnect all the water cooling tubes and spray it in? Unbolt the motor and spray it all over? If so, I will need to get some of that oil. (Bearing Oil)
Does the Radio box need to come out to remove the motor? It just seems like a lot.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...027r/SV27R.jpg
Hey, don't make this too hard. Just clean the shaft after a day of running, re-grease and then slide it back in and it is ready to go for the next time. Put a a drop or two of oil on the back and front of the motor where the metal shaft is and turn it a few time so it soaks in and your done. Some people do spray the interior of the motor with some stuff to keep it from coroding(name escapes me at the moment). We have like 7 or so of these boats and and I can tell you that some of my family members have done NOTHING other than grease the shaft and the boats are still running fine after a 2 or 3 years. So, you can go crazy with maintenance if you like to do those things or just run it and not worry too much about it.
Oh Yes, remembered, Corrosion X. You spray that inside the motor itself and it will keep everythign inside from corroding. NOT that this is really a big problem for your boat at all though.
yes i agre with electric, just grease the shaft and you'll be fine. I do put a drop or two of oil on the motor bearings then turn the motor a few times with my hand. you are running in fresh water right?
it is good to remove the lid of the radio box and let it dry out in case some water did get inside. and if you have a bad flip and take on alot of water I'd recommend removing the balloon around the rx and letting that dry out. Go to walmart and pickup some good sized party balloons and ruber bands and always reinstall a new balloon.
Great info ALL. Is Corrosion X RC or Marine?
Should I do anything with the cooling tubes then?
And does the motor need to come out to oil or just drip a drop on the center of the top end?
Frest water runs for me right know. (Ohio)
Here is the corrosion x link:Quote:
Originally Posted by Kent55
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...hp?prod=corr-x
Nothing needed for the cooing tubes
Yes, just a DROP of oil in the center top end, the motor does not need to come out.
If you want to use the corrosion x then you probably want to pull the motor. Spray the inside of the motor with it and let it drip dry. Then re-install and you should not even think about doing it again for a year at least. The only exception is if you completely submerse the inside of the boat in water, then it would be good idea to pull it out and do it again.
Seriously though, even the motors I have seen put underwater numerous times with no treatement and everything still works fine. Pretty durable boat.
One more thing. These boats tend to flip pretty easy. If you want to make your life easy buy one of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SV27-rollove...item35bbfcd58e
I found some yellow paint (my boat is the same color as yours) and painted it which keeps the ugliness factor down a bit. Really works 100 percent.
I am thinking of ordering a prop from kintecracing.com
Are there parts I should order that will be needed in the future that I should go ahead & get now?
Also, what is the best way to clean/clear the cooling tubes? The last few runs I have not seen water coming out at all - unless it is just hard to see. Shouldn't it come out at all planing speeds?
Check for blockage in the lines.. if something is slowing the water flow or stopping it, you will burn the motor and escQuote:
Originally Posted by Kent55
I always blow through my lines after a day of fun at the lake
Yes, I am liking this boat a lot more than the Tower Vee I had before.Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy Barnacle
I also really like the new AQ Revolt - I like the realistic boat look. Bad thing is, it was posted onto AQ's website only days after I ordered the SV27 and it is out of my price range.
Kent,
I'm glad you're happy with the boat. it does look good in the pics you posted. For the water cooling, always check to see if water is coming thru the lines. get in the habit of always looking at that while you drive. I have had a bad tumble and crash that knocks a water line loose. Just running these boats for a minute with no cooling can destroy everything. Remove the line from the rudder and blow through the line. If there is blockage, then disconnect the line between the water outlet and the motor and blow through the lines again. If there still seems to be blockage keep un hooking each item until you find the culprit. Make a habit of checking the water lines, better safe then sorry
What do you blow with - compressed air?Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbenjamin77
Kent55,
I use a disposible bent-tip plastic syringe. I take the silicone tube off the rudder and place the tip into the tube to blow water into the system to check leaksand blockage, I place my finger on the out-going nipple and shoot the syringe to pressure test. Depending on how long the tubings are inside your boat, sometimes I need 2 or 3 full shots to gather enough water to complete the test. I keep pushing the syring until I feel pressure from the out-goimg nipple. I look inside the boat for leaks, typically on the water jacket on the motor and various fittings. let go of your finger and water should "shootout" like a squirt-gun.
BTY, sometimes small debries get stuck in the rudder pick-up holes, another place you must check, I have blockage there far more often than up stream the the hose. I back flush it by inserting the bent tip into the nipple on the rudder and shoot water , any small grass or debries should come out of the pick-up hole, or you can use any length of discarded silicone tube and attach one end to bent-tip and another end connect to rudder nipple.
And how right you are, Bruce! I should have kept my mouth shut!:roflol: I am glad you cleared this up!
No, No I like your ideas. I have 1 of those syringes from when I had my wisdom removed. I'm going to dig it out now.Quote:
Originally Posted by tlandauer
Thanks.
That is just the way I like to mock myself, I know all is good, thanks!
BTW, since I didn't know what I was talking about and having re-read Kent55's post, I realized it is not a problem with leaking, but rather the water is not ( at least not seemingly) coming out with a volume that would suggest sufficient cooling is taking place. Looking at AQ's picture I was reminded the same problem on my Rio, the tubing takes a sharp turn and goes into the transom, might want to double check that it is not pinched as in my Rio. I gently tucked out the tube a little so the turn is more rounded, and water seems to come out more.