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I guess they need a 1/4 shaft ,, I figured turning a 457/3 I would be good,, but I guess the 11 HP destroyed the 3/16 shaft is 50 ft live and learn :bash: what about the long motor shaft does that need to be cut so the collect is a little closer to the motor I'm thinking it should ,,
I run 1/4” with mine.
I guess the 11 h.p. electric would be simular to a 90 size glow engine , 1/4 inch shaft for sure.
Thanks guys Tyler what about the Long motor shafts I have at least 5/8 of exposed shaft behind the collet thanks chrisQuote:
Originally Posted by RaceMechaniX
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Chris, if the shaft was a 5mm diameter size i would cut it down shorter but being an 8mm it should be fine at that spacing.
Yes it 8 mm thanks manQuote:
Originally Posted by rol243
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Chris,
I don't like extra shaft off the end of the motor if I can avoid it. I did cut the stock 2028 shaft down so I only have room for a thrust washer if needed and the collet.
If cutting the motor shaft means you need to replace the flex shaft too, then it can probably wait.
-Tyler
Me to.Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceMechaniX
You know I knew that,, I just needed a little push LOL , reciprocating mass like that hanging off the end of the shaft could do some damage if suddenly goes out of balance , where if it was cut shorter and closer to the case it would be much safer and less vibration thanks TylerQuote:
Originally Posted by RaceMechaniX
Yea and me too lol need that push ,,,I have to re do the drive line anyway to 1/4". I'll just take the cut off wheel to it thanks ChrisQuote:
Originally Posted by Moonie
pretty hard to bend 8mm hardened steel thats only about 1 inch long.
The biggest reason is to reduce the radial forces on the bearings from any imbalance in the coupler and/or shaft.
Shorter shaft and a snug fitting coupler are key.
not at 30,000 rpm better safe then sorry thanks guys !!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by rol243