1/10th 8255 SCALE BUILD - U-100 MISS ROCK

Well I had found that it was somewhat difficult finding an actual 1/10 scale build on here. There seems to be a piece here and another piece there.

So I started this on the well known Newton 8255 design & kit from ML Boatworks. The boat will be the 1985 U-100 Miss Rock. Haven't made a final decision as yet to power, ESC, or battery. A lot folks at MMEU have been getting into the 1/10 scale racing and everyone seems to be having a great time with them. So decided I had to build one....:smile:

Started off with building a jig for this build. I think that the Jig actually took longer to build than the framing in of the hull...LOL. You'll see the jig that the hull is sitting on. If you need a separate pictures of the jig just let me know.
I was also able to find some nice metal blocks to assist in the build. Picked up 4 lg. aluminum blocks ad 4 2X2X3/4 steel blocks all for $35.00. I thought that was a pretty fair price. All blocks are cut perfectly to 90 degree angles that helped out a lot with keeping the rails and bulkheads square thru out the build.

So everything on this boat had been test fitted together twice before I started up the gluing process. Doubler's were glued together for the transom and both sponson transoms. After everything was test fitted for the final time the gluing process starts with everything assembled from the transom up thru the #6 bulhead. What is really important is to just use thin CA to glue these surfaces together. Even when gluing with thin CA, go easy on how much is being used. If you want to save some time on your builds watch where the CA is being applied. You have many top and bottom stringers to install and you don't want a glob of CA blocking up the slots for the stringers.

The next thing was to add the remaining sponson bulkheads, stringers and the front nose sections. I then moved on to adding some glue strips to add to the glue area for the sponson sheeting. I use 1/4 sq. basswood under the ride pad and 1/16 sq. on all other sponson rail areas. The inside and outside interim sheets either side of the ride pad are the first to be installed. Then cut / sand the ride pad sheet to fit. All bottom sponson sheeting is 1/16. The top decking on this boat will be finished with 1/32 sheeting.

Next will be completing the turn fin, bracket and backplate before glassing and epoxy work. Also need top add rear wing mounts in the hull and complete glassing/epoxy work. Still trying to figure out what I want to do with the front nose section and air brake.


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Just some pictures of some of the sponson sheeting.


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Sweet.
I love watching a boat come together. I can smell the birch wood from here.

Can you post some more pics of the jig? I’m starting a similar kit. (ML 149 / mhr 8701)

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Originally Posted by 785boats

Sweet.
I love watching a boat come together. I can smell the birch wood from here.

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Morning Paul....yes in deed...the birch wood saw dust is flying through the air...LOL :thumbup1:

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Originally Posted by lambo

Can you post some more pics of the jig? I’m starting a similar kit. (ML 149 / mhor 8701)

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Morning Geoff....I’m at work for 1/2 day today, but will post some jig pictures when I get home.

Federal employee and caught up in the gov shut down....:ThumbsDown01:

You decided to not carry those traps back. Very interested in seeing how that runs.

I think Ty might be spread to thin this season with all the killer boats I've put together for him. I might be running the 8255 Oberto for 2018. That class is stupid fun. The boats are all so close.

Hey Terry...

Yep decided to sand out the traps just aft of the #4 bulkhead. But I think I’m going to keep some of the air break up front. Really want see if it frees up the boat a bit in the turns, but keep it stable in the straights. Guess we’ll see...:lol:

I’m really looking forward to running it this summer. I’ve been watching you guys running these for the last two years and it just looks like to much fun...lol

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Originally Posted by lambo

Can you post some more pics of the jig? I’m starting a similar kit. (ML 149 / mhor 8701)

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Hey Geoff....

Well made it home after my 1/2 day of work...lol. But now it looks like I’m back to work tomorrow.
Here are some pics of the jig you were wanting. Let me know if you need any other info.

Just need to make sure everything is Square and flat. So take your time...it will be worth it in the end.



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Thank you

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Originally Posted by Speed810

Really want see if it frees up the boat a bit in the turns, but keep it stable in the straights. Guess we’ll see

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I've had this conversation a number of times with Mike. The physics aren't different with the notch in my opinion. It's still the air travel distance above vs the travel distance below the fuselage (so to speak). Negative pressure dictates the lift. Like a wing. He's not actually changing the dimensions by having the dam. It just looks worse.

Ty's boat is really fast, turns, and doesn't blow off the water so we'll take it.

Hi Mike, where did you find the weight blocks?

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Originally Posted by longballlumber

Hi Mike, where did you find the weight blocks?

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Hi Mike....I got them over at Alero Steel. They have an outlet over here in Lansing. They have 8-10 shelves full of scrap aluminum, and different types of bar steel blocks. Cost was between $1.50 to $3.00 per lb. depending on the type of metal. They will even cut this stuff for you at $5 for the first cut and $1 each cut after that.
I didn't think that was a bad deal. Those blocks I found were all cut that way...LOL.

They might have an outlet over that way in Detroit. Or let me know if you need any and I'll see what I can find....

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Originally Posted by Speed810

Hi Mike....I got them over at Alero Steel. They have an outlet over here in Lansing. They have 8-10 shelves full of scrap aluminum, and different types of bar steel blocks. Cost was between $1.50 to $3.00 per lb. depending on the type of metal. They will even cut this stuff for you at $5 for the first cut and $1 each cut after that.
I didn't think that was a bad deal. Those blocks I found were all cut that way...LOL.

They might have an outlet over that way in Detroit. Or let me know if you need any and I'll see what I can find....

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There is another Alro outlet store on Groesbeck south of I696

Thanks fells! always looking for ways to hold stuff in position while gluing.

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Originally Posted by macomb

There is another Alro outlet store on Groesbeck south of I696

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Did not know that. Wonder if Metal Mart on Dequindre would have a scrap shelf of sorts.

I've used aluminum chunks for years but mine are small. Those are sweet.

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Originally Posted by T.S.Davis

Did not know that. Wonder if Metal Mart on Dequindre would have a scrap shelf of sorts.

I've used aluminum chunks for years but mine are small. Those are sweet.

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"Ball's Bags" work really good for non flat surfaces, but a PIA if they break! Need a better mouse trap.

bahaha Didn't want to say I broke Mike's "Ball Bag" but I did. Steel shot went everywhere. Wait........."Ball's Bags" are made of steel? Yes. Yes they are.

The steel shot are great for other things though. I cut the finger off of a nitrile glove and filled it with shot to make very exact weights to use as ballast. Need 3oz somewhere? Make one. I double up the glove layers.

Now that I think about it........why not put the shot into nitrile gloves instead of latex balloons? Could work.

That's a great idea Terry!! Sure a lot better than trying to put a bolt someplace..LOL

Use dive weights, they use lead shot. Also, you can buy them in any weight you need.

Not sure why I didn't think of it before. Just put the steel shot I already have in a sock. Tie a knot. Done.

I did this with my mono. Fishing weights! They are taped to Velcro and applied in the boat. You can fine tune by snatching it out of there, add/subtract as you need.

Morning all... Sorry haven't posted lately on the 10th scale build. You haven't missed anything....I been working on buddies 1/10th scale for the past few weeks. I'll be getting back to mine hopefully this week.

Had a question for you expert sealing and finishing folks....:smile: Has anyone tried using the JD Total Boat penetrating epoxy system?
I am aware of the CPES system and seen some posts on that. Seems like it works really well. This appears to be the same type of system other than its a 2:1 mixing and its a bit less money. That CPES system is expensive, but I guess right on par with West Systems.

I have used West Systems for the past 5 years trying different thinning processes and just want to try something else where I can get away from all the clogging that takes place when sanding the hulls down. I have read some could reviews of guys using the Total Boat system on full size wood dingy type projects with very good results and hardly any sanding at all. They are usually mixing 50% acetone which makes it flash off and cure much quicker.

Appreciate any input you may have on this or different systems your using.

Thanks

Maybe I missed it above. What class does this boat (1/10) run that is "stupid fun, all boats are so close!" I wanna try!!!! Thanks forum members....

Just that. 10th scale. It's not run everywhere. I'm not sure any clubs on the east coast are doing it.

Copy all. Thanks. I know district 1 does not run those. If you do,I think you have to run as p sport or q sport depending on length??? Still learning.

It would be tough. We run the opposite way with our tenth scales. The ML boats are cut to turn left. If he cut one to turn right it would be subject the length limits for P. If it crested 34" it would become Q.

My Atlas is cut with centerline mounting and equal dimensions starboard and port. Think it makes Q. 34.5" tip to tail.

I saw some questions in here I want to address...Left turning vs Right turning 1/10th hulls...My 1/10th scale kits are offered in both clockwise, and counter clockwise versions, which flip the frames so you can build it in either turning direction you need.

Next, addressing the quarter round on the bottom of the hull. I saw where Terry doesn't feel it really does anything, other than make the bottom look bad, lol. Nothing could be further from the truth. With that being said, I want to discuss a project I did with Don Ferrette years ago, which started all of this quarter round air dam being incorporated into many of my kits. I get a lot of people who feel they know better, and delete the air damn, or publicly say it does nothing. I love ya Terry, but you are wrong if you feel it doesn't work the way I intended it. Don set out several years ago, to break the 1/8th scale hydroplane FE SAW record which at the time, was in the 75mph range if I remember. Well, Don started testing, using the air damn technique, and he found his hull, which ultimately went 100mph with 10s and a 1527 Neu, would blow off in the 80mph range..So he added the air damn very close to the front of the bow block...and the hull stayed on the water and has never blown off during his 100mph runs. Fast forward the following year. Scott Liddycoat wanted to set a new 1/8th scale Nitro record, using basically the same hull as Don used for his FE record...The only difference, he had his quarter round about 4" back from the bow...and as fate would have it...he blew off in the 80mph range...the following trials, he came back, quarter round was moved to the front like Don's...His only hull change..and as you can see in the IMPBA record book, he posted a 93mph record. So Let me tell you, the quarter round works, it may be more subtle on a sport hydro, as I am able to make other aerodynamic features more correct for hi speed running, taking some pressure off the influence the bottom of the hull creates...but in the scale hydro world, you cannot change those curved deck features..The boat has to look scale...the only thing I can do, is mod sponsons, and center section bottoms...Having some features like this are important. Don has also run the 171 extreme 1/8th scale Elam kit in the 75mph range in heat trim, and he swears the quarter round bottom has made a difference. ML Boatworks works with many many top racers in the world, and has had those guys share a lot of secrets for the better of the hobby, and the chose me to do these because I listened. Believe in them, they are not just fancy hype! Sorry to rant, but I see a lot of people tell the mass public the things I do don't really do anything, and they are wrong.


Oh, and it was mentioned that Distance is the only thing that changes airflow speed...That is wrong. Diffusing the air with the air dam changes the time the air travels under the hull. It diffuses, rolls the air flow, slowing down how long it takes for the air to travel under the hull..That changes how long the bottom airflow vs. the top airflow take to travel. If that bottom time is longer than the top..guess what, you have a reverse airplane wing without the simple physics you normally see..You have to think outside the box!!