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After setting, and currently holding the NAMBA P-Ltd Mono SAW record with my first JetChopper30 and building a "hotrod" version for Christian Z. in Chile, I decided to build a hotrod for myself. Having just decommissioned my Wacko dual rudder MM and having a spare Catle/Neu 1515 1Y 2200KV motor and a T-180, I set out to have some fun and add a litle bling.
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I'm a fan of Spd stingers but I needed to shorten it to have the correct relationship with the Spd .21 rudder, which was shortened
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OSE tabs and large fins. (three holes for bling)
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To spread out the motor mount load, made some platforms for strength
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[I started with a Promodel motor mount that had the useless-for-inrunners front mount which recessed the motor bolts and made them hard to line up. Instead used an Etti center section which I added a top bolt to keep things lined up.]
Looking forward to the video on this one Tony!
3/8" brass tube for servo rod to pass-through without binding on full articulation
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narrowed the T-180 since it was getting placed next to motor in tight quarters - (hopefully one day the trusty T-180 ESC will have the water inlets/outlets going the same directions as the wires) Made a platform for the ESC to anchor it
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Favoring the "rear-motor/batteries-on centerline" design to keep weight low & centered (which I presume minimizes chine walk) (btw it worked) I made 3/32 birch ply battery trays spaced off the bottom to allow one-wrap velcro to keep batteries from strolling around and G/Flexed them in with holes to add epoxy strength/bond
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It's coming after the full build post is done :wink:Quote:
Originally Posted by Brushless55
The HRC water jackets come with small diameter fittings; replaced with larger ones after re-tapping holes
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same for rudder
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Waterlines short and neat inside
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Angled outlet makes output easier to check - less wind-shear effect
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I'm a big fan of hatch retention. Tabs in front
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CF in back with tapered "locators" (CF can be tapped with threads!) BTW in this picture you can see the Etti center motor mount with easily accessible bolts
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Purdy 4mm anodized thrumbscrews through rubber grommets
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(somehow an FE30 picture snuck in & I can't figure out how to back it out :noidea:)
Some Beauty shots with a big Thanks to MonoJeff for the nifty windshield
Notice the ride-pad bottom.
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I usually don't record the first wet but I was alone in the park until a bunch of kids walked by so I commandeered a 9 year old girl to take the vid. I'm happy with the way it ran; need to center-trim the rudder and bolt on a bigger prop, but looks good so far :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2W2ihCljk8E
Looks good Tony.Dang fine for first wet.Wish I could do that.
Thanks.Next time I'll prop way up & see what happens :sinking-guy:Quote:
Originally Posted by srislash
Some say that ride-pad hulls have trouble in chop. My P-Ltd JetChopper30 doesn't seem to mind http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkiTfVT1LaE
Very cool sir, as always. Diggin the tabs and thumb screws for the hatch....:cool2:
Looks and sounds great Tony!
Yep I was cruising along admiring the build and then a yellow Fe 30 pops up . Butterflies and nightmares. :(
On a brighter note I'm pretty stoked on how my pursuit is running with some tired batteries , can't wait to pick up my dinogys. Not sure how long it will be before my new hatch gets here so I made one that looks good from 50 ft away. Also got a nice big rudder on there, huge difference.
I'll be running p ltd cat next weekend, assuming the boat min. Is met. Could use a tune day before hand, water is usually flatter down there then when I run up here. Might have some free time mid week if you are gonna run at all before the race.
Allows quick removal when needed :ohmy:Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocstar22
IB34 P-Mono
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Works on Cheetah's as well :wink:
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I wish my FE30 would pop up (the one that's on permanent display on the bottom of McKellips pond in Scottsdale :Sinking:). There should be no problem making the P-Ltd Cat class minimum- only three boats are needed with the SCSTA -Boyd may show as well plus Stephen, Naveed and me.. Might have some practice time next week ; let's talk :thumbup1:
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Originally Posted by TheShaughnessy
Looks good Tony. Sorry for the newbie question but who makes the hull?
I have a direct connection with the maker in China. Might end up with a distribution deal.Quote:
Originally Posted by BakedMopar
Hello Tony,
I am testing with various strut/stinger length. I refer to John Finch's MONO MANIA. I believe 8.5% strut/stinger length is a pretty good value, reduce porposing. I have a rudder similar to yours. I modified the rudder to match the strut/stinger length:
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Longer rudder mount lift the transom in a turn.
Rgds,
Leo
Hello Tony,
I race NAVIGA style offshore, eq. to oval. My JC30 weighted 3490g(7.7lbs). Lift and speed were high. I will either add ballast or reduce the pad area. Will try add ballast first, make it 3595g(7.93lbs). The desigh was refer to Jim Russell's article "Why does a 'pad' make a V-hull faster?". Bigger pad not necessarily better. Depend on boat set up.
Rgds,
Leo
Hi Tony/Leo.
I wish I still had my JC30. But unfortunately it was T-boned by another boat & basically destroyed.
Might have to get another one soon.
Nice work, as always, Tony.
Cheers.
Paul.
Hello Paul,
Let me know before placing order. We will soon have the Lunar New Year Holiday.
Rgds,
Leo
Hello Tony,
I run rc boat with some other boaters. But no one could help me to take video for most of the time. I made some tool to help take video by my own:
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Thanks Leo.
I'll do that.