Large scale outboard design questions

Hi all, I am in process of designing an outboard that can handle 35000rpms and 4000+ watts. I plan on using a 1/4" flex system with it. My design goals are:

5692 motor size
Can use off the shelf flex cables (1/4 flex to 1/4 stub shaft or 1/4 flex to 1/4 stub reduced to 3/16 for different prop choices)
Can use a standard flex hex
Oiler system with oil reservoir
Replaceable brass stuffing tube.
Built in water pickup for motor
Scale appearance (looks like a full scale outboard)
Speedmaster style floating bushing system
Can fit the MHZ 1/5 scale cowl over the motor.

Anything else you guys think I should add to the list?

I have one big problem with this project and that is the flex cable. I know it is best to have the flex as straight as possible but that will make the scale appearance hard to accomplish. It is possible to have the flex bend to a 90 degree angle and still be reliable.

I am looking forward to the feedback.

Thanks!
Rich

http://lawlessdrives.com/?c=225&i=2842

Might be cheaper to not reinvent the wheel.
Mic

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HTVboats

http://lawlessdrives.com/?c=225&i=2842

Might be cheaper to not reinvent the wheel.
Mic

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I don't see an electric version on the site. Is there one?

K&B has been using 90* degree bends on their outboards for many a long year with no issues, you have to try to break them, like putting them in backwards / upside down, the best way to break one is going fast forward slamming it into reverse to stop, sudden stops is bad for flexies. All my outboards are set up with no reverse. Most of today's existing nitro outboards have adapter plates to convert the lower unit to electric use.

If you have the ability to consider making a complete lower making an FE adapter is pretty simple. Make a flat motor plate and use standoffs.
Mic

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JestDanny

K&B has been using 90* degree bends on their outboards for many a long year with no issues, you have to try to break them, like putting them in backwards / upside down, the best way to break one is going fast forward slamming it into reverse to stop, sudden stops is bad for flexies. All my outboards are set up with no reverse. Most of today's existing nitro outboards have adapter plates to convert the lower unit to electric use.

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I remember K&B being around when I was younger. I think I would need a tighter bend than they have to keep the scale appearance that I am looking for. It also looks like they use a square flex apposed to a flex fused to a stub shaft.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HTVboats

If you have the ability to consider making a complete lower making an FE adapter is pretty simple. Make a flat motor plate and use standoffs.
Mic

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An adapter would be very easy. I just want a scale look like the MHZ outboard, but with the reliability of a flex system.

Attachment 171783Attachment 171784
Thought I'd test this idea first, we will see how it does in the test tank!