I got a box of sticks that that some how will become the 2013 oh boy! Oberto. Attachment 162196
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I got a box of sticks that that some how will become the 2013 oh boy! Oberto. Attachment 162196
Attachment 162197 This looks like a good place to start. How can I screw this up? Fits perfect in those little dotted lines.
Attachment 162199 More dotted lines(I can do this)(maybe)!
Attachment 162200 Attachment 162201 Attachment 162202 Soo clean...except where I touched it, with my gluey fingers. Yes yes, the motor will go here and the batteries will go there, it will be wonderful. More dotted lines.
Attachment 162204 It was all going so well, and then a beavis and butthead moment...ummm..uh..huh-huh-huh..what the hell does this mean?
How are you going to install and remove batteries once the motor in installed?
Attachment 162220 Just to clarify and qualify anything you see and read from me here; I have no idea what I'm doing...but to your question, I am removing a portion of the frame, to gain access. And I will put back what I cut out, a bit further back, for strength.Quote:
Originally Posted by Twood69
Here's a couple pics from the ML Elam I did a short while back. The packs were forward of the motor/ESC with just enough room to lift them in and out. Hope this helps....
Wow! That is a real nice job on that Elam. Did that kit have cockpit inside frames, that dipped down for, I am assuming, the rear sponson outline? like this? Attachment 162245
Actually no I had to hand make mineQuote:
Originally Posted by Tetefroid
Don, thank you for that. I am struggling with those rear sponsons, especially the left side (on the 1/8th scale) because the frames on the 172 extreme kit do not allow me to make the rear sponson to scale, or make them look like the real ones anywayAttachment 162329. The real ones turn out and up and are kind of 1/4 torpedo shaped, while yours, and the way I'm forced to do mine, with the frames the way they are, is to turn in and up. And then they are to long to make it look like the real ones. Ugh and I am confused by just trying to describe it. lol. I wish I understand the intention from ML.
Tetefroid.
There is a bit of detail in post #23 & post #33 on how I did mine in this build thread, if it is of any help. Pretty much the same as Don I think.
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...ale-Hydroplane
[QUOTE=785boats;727666]Tetefroid.
There is a bit of detail in post #23 & post #33 on how I did mine in this build thread, if it is of any help. Pretty much the same as Don I think.
785boats, if that truly is your real name,(lol just kidding) Thank you for the example, I am not there yet, but I think you have inspired me to use that cockpit you used for mine (we'll see). But back to these tricky rear sponsons: hope you don't mind, I stole a picture of your rear pads:Attachment 162361 to use for an example of a question I have, so the boat will turn right, meaning the transom will slide left, did you install a fairing on your left pad to keep the rear from "tripping" in the turns, and how did it turn out?
He!He! No. The real name is Paul.
I left the ride surfaces flat.
If you go to post #9 & watch the video of them flipping over the boat, you will see that they are flat. Just pause the video at various stages.
I know it is a different boat but they are basicaly the same hull. Just without the big holes in the main tub.
The boat isn't finished yet, so it is untested.
Cheers.
Attachment 162821 Hey Paul, this is the best picture I could find so far, not a great one, of the slide side of the rear sponsons. As you can see it's seems to be a two piece fairing so the rear sponson does not "trip" in the turn. The other side is a one piece fairing and is flat.Quote:
Originally Posted by 785boats
Thank you. Man that was such a beautiful boat! R.I.P. Bernie. I'm having difficulties scaling those rear sponsons, that's a great picture but the angle makes it hard to determine the size.
Shaping the left rear sponson, non-trip fairings. Tricky for someone who lacks the skills like me (and a good picture to go by):Attachment 163185 Attachment 163186 Attachment 163187
Attachment 163749 Woa....WTH fellas...used this 30min epoxy for the sponson step, clamped her down for 6 hours, removed clamps and it pop off. And I did sand both surfaces before i tried to glue it...any ideas?
30 min slow epoxy can be handled after 8 hours. Full cure time is 24 hours. Sounds like you did not wait long enough. 30 min is just your working time.
Something you may want to try in the future is titebond iii. Just as strong as epoxy and much quicker bonding times. Must be wood to wood bond.
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That stuff looks promising, I'm going to order a bottle and check it out. Thank you for the suggestion.
Been working on the sponsons, those compound curves are a pain, especially when trying to clamp the sheeting....Attachment 164191
Did the sponsons steps: Attachment 164192 I haven't done the runners yet : Attachment 164193 Attachment 164194 Gawd that camera makes it look awful...and maybe it is...I need glasses.
Also did the top decks finally, did an experiment with the spray foam and the total boat epoxy I am using for the decks, It seems the Epoxy will adhere very well to the spray foam. Not sure if I can just use it in place of 3/16x3/16 and 1/4x1/4 stock, glued to the frames or not...Attachment 164275 Attachment 164276 Attachment 164277
second the Titebond.... it has held together 5 of my guitars and a banjo (2 of them headstock repairs, taking all the string tension) for many years now... all of these have been repaired with Titebond...Quote:
Originally Posted by mpschofield
Attachment 164211
Nice. I will be using that stuff on my next boat, for
sure.
Attachment 165076 Does anyone know if there needs to be a belly pan installed on this 172 extreme kit? Does anyone have any pics on how they did that on this particular kit?
None on mineQuote:
Originally Posted by Tetefroid
https://youtu.be/9iFuU8vluTU I got a chance to test this thing today, wanted to make sure it would go straight and handle safely. Ran it less than two minutes, 3 times. Thing keeps coming back HOT. ABC H2215 prop, 8s, 5000mah, one set 45c and a set 50c, 130a Seaking-HV-V3, HET Typhoon 700 Series 840KV FE Motor. Motors comes back really hot (it would burn you if held it for more than a few seconds) to the touch same with batteries, I did not have a temp gage with me so I don't know the actual temp, but you wouldn't want to put them down your pants. After a less than two minute run....this doesn't seem right... ?
Which 2215? That is a somewhat aggressive prop regardless. I would start by propping down some and see if the heat comes down.