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I downloaded the firmware last night and installed the program from the CD and can't get anything to work now!
The computer detects a com port #7??
I tried to reload the CD and couldn't and now I can't find the software download on you site.
What gives?
I want to reload everything and start over but apparently the download is no longer available?
I tried to calibrate the esc with the transmitter and it still wouldn't work.
GRRRRRRRRR. I'm losing patience here!:cursing:
:help:
Hi
purely a software thing.
Assuming a windows pc.
The HiFei software allows com 1,2,3,4.
You have the emulator installed on com7
go to windows controlpanel, system, hardware, devicemanager and change the port allocated the emulator to 3 or 4 ( you need the usb thing plugged in to see this emulator entry )
It will remember the settings for future plug ins
restart the esc program and set the port as the option you chose.
All should be fine.
regs
W
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XEwpk3sH6Ss :help::help::confused:
THANKS GUYS!
You were of great help in solving my problem with this ESC/USB connection!:thumbup:
Everything now appears to be working properly and I was able to reconfigure the ESC ... wanted to shut off the brake and set up the LVC for 4S pack.
:beerchug:
THANKS GUYS!
Especially to drwayne who helped me with the reconfiguration of the comport settings. It worked!:thumbup:
I have now been able to reset the LVC as well as shut off the brake. The small programming card did not work at all.
Now I need to figure out which timing and PWM setting to use with the SV 27 motor.
:beerchug:
It's in the manual. Hi-Fei seems to use a variable timming software.Quote:
Originally Posted by Insaniac
Downloaded manual and it doesn't say. Actually it is programmable with "Low-Medium-High-Auto", so I guess the timing can be set to variable (whatever that is).Quote:
Originally Posted by BakedMopar
Yes it does look at page 10.Quote:
Originally Posted by Insaniac
Low 0~15
Middle 5~20
High 15~30
Auto (default)
lol. How does that even make sense? They overlap. Funny. Such precision.
Well yes and no. Think of it like your car. You have initial timing and timing at full advance. There was an article by Castle or Novak that explained how this works. I will try to find it when I have a chance but they explain it.
FWIW. I found little difference between auto and the low and med timing settings. It was faster on high though. This was on my UL-1 powered rigger. I use "auto" in my cat and never touched it.
EDIT: I beleive it's called Dynamic timing. Novak uses it in there Kinetec models. Just can't seem to find that article i was reading.
Does anyone "waterproof" their Swordfish? Has anyone had an unmodified SW upside down in the water and survive (or not survive)?
If you waterproof it, what do you do? Supposedly it has already been coated with epoxy.
-t
I used corrosion X on mine. works fineQuote:
Originally Posted by tharmer
Timing has a width of around(~)15'
low.med.high set the start point for that range
Auto is 0~30' with a twist
When WOT and prop can free spin, max rpm + achieved at high timing
When WOT and motor at full rpm. the timing is reduced ( to limit misfiring the array I assume during over-run)
timing lowers !.
does not engage highest timing again until throttle down then up. to 'reset' .
boat reaches ETS, then slows .
what the ?
Medium worked fine in the tests I ran
W
grab the simplified Chinese specs... a good read ( google translate helps ! )
damn .. double tap
www.hifei.com/cn/
you need to set your ip echo as something Chinese ( :p ) else it's forbidden access.
W