diagram available with good detail on how the dual prop setup should look?

I had several issues with my drive line to date.. but since I had it apart I'm making several changes... including swapping motors. I want to make sure my motors are spinning in the correct driection, flex shafts are on the right sides and props are on the right sides before taking her out again or messing up my equipment.

Is the stock direction motors spinning clockwise on the left (looking at the boat from the rear) and counter clockwise on the right side?

Based on this answer which way for the flex shafts and props.



Thanks...

Hello,

The props rotate towards each other so you are correct about the rotation. I don't have a good picture to show you but if you look at the way the wire lays, it appears that if you held the prop and rotated the motor, the spring would look like it was being tightened. One other note is to leave a slight gap between the drive dog and the stinger since the spring tends to tighten up a little when running and if isn't a slight gap the shaft can tend to bind up causing unwanted drag.
Fleckster48

I think I figured it out... TY

I wish this boat could move like my revolt 30 does.... sounds kinda cool but performance isn't anywhere near the same level. Certainly couldn't race with it as it is.

I have the 2200kv motors on 4s lipo so that should be good but temps are quite high 150 on the motor, rest of the system is fine... motors seem to be the weak link in this boat now that I put new couplers on it to replace the stock set pins. I am running the stock 36 plastic 3 blade props, maybe the metal sharpened red ones will drop the temps a little, but I'm actually thinking I should move to a two blade prop instead of the 3 blade, little more speed and a little cooler I would think?

Anyone have some thoughts?

Out-runners do run warmer , KOS P1 runs hotter than all my other in-runners, 150 is ok. How is temp on your ESCs?
Only ran with 3 blade plastic ones, couldn't give any feed back.

Well I agree about the motors. I'm running 32mm stock plastic props and my motor temps are still high. Here's what I got from a Venom R&D guy "the motor temps can be as high as 140F and I would be fine with that but any hotter is a problem". I've toasted my port motor as it always runs hotter. I have set the gap between the drive dog and the stinger at 0.5mm which was recommended by the same guy. I was running 3s on the 36mm and then tried the 32's with 4s 4000MAH 30c. I was set up to make a high speed pass, nailed the throttle and the boat flew for about 30 feet....and the port motor blew. BTW, mine came with two different motors...one with 3 screws holding the end cap and one with a single screw.

Like you said everything is cool except the motors....the boat has the potential to run with the right motors.

Need some stock motors? I have the stock 2700's with 1 run on them that lasted less than 1 minute before the shaft fell out :P The 2200kv versions are what I ran today since I want to stay w/ 4s I won't be running the 2700kv stock versions. LMK. I was going to just ebay them.

ESC was 98, batts 100

Quote:

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Originally Posted by fleckster48

Well I agree about the motors. I'm running 32mm stock plastic props and my motor temps are still high. Here's what I got from a Venom R&D guy "the motor temps can be as high as 140F and I would be fine with that but any hotter is a problem". I've toasted my port motor as it always runs hotter. I have set the gap between the drive dog and the stinger at 0.5mm which was recommended by the same guy. I was running 3s on the 36mm and then tried the 32's with 4s 4000MAH 30c. I was set up to make a high speed pass, nailed the throttle and the boat flew for about 30 feet....and the port motor blew. BTW, mine came with two different motors...one with 3 screws holding the end cap and one with a single screw.

Like you said everything is cool except the motors....the boat has the potential to run with the right motors.

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Interesting about the different motor. After I burned my P1 motor, my replacement was different, I forgot which is which, I talked with a tech guy at Venom, who BTW was really friendly and helpful, told me they are the same just made differently. I thought I prefered the one originally came with the boat. Think that is the type with three screws holding the end cap. I burned it because the silicone cooling line was tangled with the out-runner can.
Did you get replacement? Which type did you get?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stumblinh

Need some stock motors? I have the stock 2700's with 1 run on them that lasted less than 1 minute before the shaft fell out :P The 2200kv versions are what I ran today since I want to stay w/ 4s I won't be running the 2700kv stock versions. LMK. I was going to just ebay them.

ESC was 98, batts 100

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Your temp is good, the P1 motor was quite warm, my reading was between 140-150*. The heat transfered to the mount and you can feel it by touching the hull outside! I have yet to have any problems.

That's interesting about your temperature on the motors. I read the body and the end cap. The end cap is the hottest part of the motor and yes when I take the boat out of the water the area under the motors is quite warm. I have put collets on both motors as the stock setup was marginal.

I'm thinking about putting a couple of Leopard Inrunners with cooling jackets and 120 amp Seaking ESC. They have several models that will fit the existing mounts. But I also think about selling it and buying a new ProBoat BlackJack when they become available.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by fleckster48

That's interesting about your temperature on the motors. I read the body and the end cap. The end cap is the hottest part of the motor and yes when I take the boat out of the water the area under the motors is quite warm. I have put collets on both motors as the stock setup was marginal.

I'm thinking about putting a couple of Leopard Inrunners with cooling jackets and 120 amp Seaking ESC. They have several models that will fit the existing mounts. But I also think about selling it and buying a new ProBoat BlackJack when they become available.

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You mean the Leopard will fit the Out-runner clamps? Isn't that what the other member wanted? I was only relating my P1 mono's experience with the out-runner temp. My KOS C1 is the old version with in-runner, i plan to up grade to Leopard 28/60 when the stock motors give out. Those mount will fit, I think. But for now they have been fine.