SV27 Bare Hull Rebuild Questions

Hey guys,
As a newcomer I find that I'm a couple years behind the power curve...but I sure do appreciate the advice I get from here.
So I've got a well used hull I'm trying to spruce up. I've ripped out all the delaminated separating wood and I'm looking at a bare hull. I'm looking for some advice from those who have been here before. Here are some specific questions I'd appreciate your experienced input on:
Should I mount the motor aft and place batts fwd or remount in the stock location?
How would you recommend stiffening the hull...options I'm considering are, glass (in pic), carbon fiber, laminating ply to hull, combo of mentioned? I plan to double the transom and double reinforce the sides....just wondering about the best treatment for for the bottom.
I plan to reuse all stock hardware and use a simple motor mount from OSE to mount the motor, I don't race (yet) and I'm not trying to set any speed records but I do like to go fast ;)

Thanks for your input guys!
If you have any other lessons to extend..I'd surely appreciate them!
Corey

Glass in the bottom of a SV will be enough, one area to put some glass tape is the hull to deck seam and above to wooden plate in the transom.
Mount the motor in the stock location and run 2 2s 5000mah packs along side the motor. Remember you have to get the cg in the proper location 27-30% of the length forwards from the transom. Mount the esc,servo and RX in the back.
Put some sealant on all the bolt holes when you re-mount everything or it will leak.
The SV is one of my favorite boats, mine is the original version, all stock except for a new flex cable. It's my one boat that always goes with no drama.

Thanks buddy,
Reason I asked about motor placement was I noticed with the stock setup I had a hard time getting the CG forward far enough with the location of the water outlets interfering with the battery. Probably best to have all the weight centered as much as possible...water outlets are easy enough to move.
I ordered a new bare hull as well, hard to beat $45 on Amazon. I think I'll set up two of these so me and the boy can dice!
Time to hit up the WTB forum to see if I can score some stock hardware for the new hull.
Thanks again for your advice,
Corey

GO to Kintec, he has a nice carbon transom doubler ( but in mine). Biggest thing I would say as a SV27 owner is to but glass strips on the sides where the two halves meet.

Neat looking piece!
Thanks for the tip, I'll be sure to beef up the new hull before putting it into service.
I can see on this hull what happens if you don't...not pretty!
Thanks,
Corey

Ya I moved my water outlets to a better location, I'm using a pair of under hull pickups on mine, one for esc, one for motor.
If I were in your situation I think I'd go a bit farther in my mods, Think I'd do a wet well stuffing tube and run a strut instead of the stock stinger. I have no proof of course but I have a suspicion that the hull could run a bit more stable if you could dial in the prop depth.
Got me thinking now! I might order up a cheap chinese strut and try this over the winter, water has started to go hard up here, time to start building and modifying for next season.
That plate wasn't available when I did mine so I chopped up some glass mat, mixed in some epoxy. Stood the boat on it's tail and put a good fillet above the plate, so far so good! Since I ran the under hull pickups I filled the water line hole at the transom.
Also chemically removed the anodizing and polished the hardware. The blue didn't go with the colour of the boat, black would have been cool but the polished aluminum looks pretty slick.
Used a 25% phosphoric acid solution to strip the anodizing. Don't get the wrong idea but after internet searches I found the easiest place to get phosphoric acid is hydroponic grow shops! The bottle says DNF pH down 85% phosphoric acid?!? LOL I'm probably on some list now for going there! Especially since I used to buy lots of nitro and methanol for mixing fuel! Terrorist flags!

Hehe, let me guess, you could only buy the acid in 55 gallon drums? :)

I hadn't considered going wet stuffing tube and strut. I want to pick up another hull to play with...the hull from Amazon showed up and turned out it was a motor! And not even a motor I want! DANG!
At least if they were going to send me the wrong part they could have sent me a UL1 motor.

Went with good old 5/32" plywood for the transom, but I ran it all the way up and radiused into the bend so it reinforced the hull joint from the inside...bonded heavy with West Systems and 403 Microfibers.

All I had laying around for glass is the stuff I use for my full size sailboats, so I picked up some fairly heavy (6oz) cloth at the hobby shop. I plan to use this to glass the floor and sides from transom to as far fwd as I can reach. Does this sound reasonable? Over-kill? Under-kill?

Thanks!

Oh, and here's my new hull :doh:

Attachment 88660

I would say over kill on the floor. Good on the sides.

Perfect!
Thanks,
Corey

Greased lightning takes off anodizing

Thanks Dana...I'll pick some up tonight and give it a try!
Any tips on using it for this purpose?

Funny, when you go to the Greased Lightening home page it shows little kids playing in the bathroom, cooking in the kitchen, a couple ladies getting liqoured up on the couch, etc...yet it has the same effect on anodized aluminum as Phosphoric Acid :icon_bs:

Just pour some in a small dish and soak parts for bout half hour then wipe clean

Thanks man!

Now I have the theme from Grease stuck in my head!
Go Greased Lightning your burning up the quarter mile.
Greased lightning, go Greased lightning.......

Wow, that Greased Lightening worked great.

I first tried a cheap Chinese strut, disassembled, put in a plastic container and poured in the GL.
Blue started floating off the parts immediately, looked like this one time after I ate too many beets out of the garden and went to the bathroom the next day…thought that was going to be a trip to the ER till I remembered the beets :)

Sorry, got sidetracked there…
I flushed the parts with water till it ran clean and then let them air dry. A couple parts had a small amount of blue still so I re-soaked them in GL till the spots were gone.

The parts are a bit dark when they come out, but a scuff with 00 steel wool and then some polish cleaned them up. Picture #4 shows the contrast of the strut bracket and the other parts.

After this success I threw in my AQ27 parts. It still worked well, but the parts took twice as long and I changed the solution once. Not sure if it’s because the parts had better anodizing or perhaps they were a bit dirty. Next time I will make sure to clean all the parts before treatment.

All in all I used a whole squirt bottle of Greased Lightening ($3.99 at Ace Hardware) and a few hours of time to clean a full set of hardware and a strut.
Thanks Again Dana!

Corey

Attachment 88906Attachment 88907Attachment 88908Attachment 88909Attachment 88910

Looks good. Some parts just take longer depending on the anodizing. Just gotta wait for some, and others it's instant

Well worth the price of admission...thanks!