Alternate Motor & Prop Choices

I've definitely been enjoying my SonicWake, even though I'm still only running it on 4S. With the stock battery connectors, I'm a little reluctant to go up to 6S, even though I've already purchased four 3S packs from Steve. I've also gone ahead, and picked up a Seaking 180A ESC, as well as the OSE-qs6 connectors, which will be used for 6S running. As I already have two hulls (the RTR boat I'm currently running, plus a second hull that's currently undergoing custom graphics), I suspect that, in the end, I'll have two complete SonicWakes - one for 4S, and one for 6S.

Of course, this thread isn't about the boats, themselves, but about alternate motor & prop options. I was watching a video on YouTube, done by someone who, obviously, knows boats, ESCs, motors, & props (based on the collection of boats he has, spotted during the video, I suspect he races). In his SonicWake, he replaced the ESC & motor, and also went with a larger-diameter prop. For the ESC, he also went with the Seaking 180A. As for the motor, he opted for a slightly larger (in diameter), but much lower kV (1050kV), Leopard motor...yet, he used the stock mount, choosing to Dremel it out for the Leopard. If I'm to consider swapping motors, I don't want to do anything that drastic...so, I'd prefer sticking with a 36mm diameter can.

In the video, he also opted to move the ESC, to the starboard side of the hull, which would allow a longer motor (he didn't specify the diameter, or length, of the motor he went with...only the brand & kV). As such, a motor that is longer than the stock 74mm can is a possibility. Moving down the line, to the prop, so as to counter the slower speed of the motor, yet still maintain overall speed of the boat (on 6S, when compared to the stock electronics & prop), he went with a much larger prop (52mm, although he never mentioned the pitch).

The reason he did all this was to lower the overall temperatures (batteries, ESC. & motor), as well as to increase running time. With the above-mentioned combination, he achieved average runtimes of 15 minutes. However, his boat is now slightly slower than the stock 6S speed. If I'm going to make the jump to 6S, I'd like to achieve something similar...lowering the electronic's temps AND increasing runtime...but, preferably, without the loss in speed.

As the stock motor is 1900kV, and the motor he went with was 1050kV, I'm guessing something in the 1200kV-1700kV range would probably be best, with 1400kV-1500kV (probably) being 'optimal'. Also, since I'd prefer not having to change motor mounts, and I don't want to "modify" the stock mount, it's probably best I stick with a 36mm diameter motor (the stock motor is a 3674). If I were to go only with OSE's offerings, I'd have to pick among these choices:

1) Leopard 3674 1400kV
2) Leopard 3674 1700kV
3) SSS 3674 1300kV
4) SSS 3682 1650kV
5) TP 3640 1570kV (36x75)
6) TP 3650 1550kV (36x86)

The first half of the equation is deciding what motor to go with. Not that I know much of anything about RC boat motors...but, if I were to make a completely uninformed decision, I'd guess the Leopard 3674 1400kV & SSS 3674 1300kV would be the two best choices, if only because I've read those two brands mentioned numerous times, and I can't recall having seen TP mentioned. Between these three brands, how would they be ranked? Part of why I'm asking is because I'm curious how they compare to reach other. The other part of why I'm asking is because, kV wise, I'm really thinking I'd prefer one of the two TP options...e especially the 1550kV.

The second half of the equation is determining the proper prop. Again, taking an uneducated guess, I'd assume something in the 48mm-52mm diameter would work...but, as for pitch, that's where I'm clueless, and could use the greatest amount of assistance.

Again, my "goal" is to achieve longer runtimes (at least 8 minutes, with 10+ minutes being preferable), and cooler components (ESC, motor, and batteries), while maintaining (at minimum) the stock 6S speed. Can this be done? If so, what is the best way of going about this, and achieving all three goals? Slightly slower (1500-1700kV) motor, and slightly larger (45-48mm) diameter prop? Or, even slower (1200-1500kV) motor, and even larger (48-52mm) diameter prop?

So...there you have it. My "goal" has been laid before you, as have 6 motor choices. Will a longer motor fit (without modifying the motor mount), if I move the ESC to the starboard side? Or, should I stick with a can of stock length? If I must use a stock-length can, which of these motors - Leopard 3674 1400kV, Leopard 3674 1700kV, or SSS 3674 1300kV - would be best? If it's possible to go with a longer can, which of these motors - SSS 3682 1650kV, TP 3640 1570kV, or TP 3650 1550kV - would be best? Also, if I can only use a stock-length can, considering that the TP 3640 1570kV is only 1mm longer than the stock motor, would that still fit?

Switching back to the prop side of things, for whichever motors are deemed "beat choices" (one for 'stock length', and one for 'longer than stock'), what diameter & pitch should allow me to maintain the stock boat's 6S speed, but without overworking/overtaxing the electronics?

I know it might seem like I'm asking a lot of questions...but, in reality, it's only two questions. It's just that they're two somewhat-convoluted questions, with multiple variations. Call it "simple, yet difficult". Some people learn by 'doing', and some by asking lots of questions. Honestly, I usually prefer to 'do', but, in this matter, 'doing' would be quite costly, and I can exactly afford to buy 6 different motors, plus a bunch of props. I don't mind spending the money on a few different props...especially when ones not used on this SonicWake would probably end up used on something else. But, for the motor, I really need to narrow down the possibilities to 1-2, and then make a final decision. That's where those reading this can help.

Ready...Set...Suggest..........

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]

Please don't be upset, but if you want a decent 6s boat get a different hull if you want to go fast with good handling. The sonicwake might be ok for some for some short zoom zoom passes on 6s, but other than that it is not a very good hull for speed, and even worse if you try and race it. On 4s it can take more prop than standard and is ok.

I have the 1900 kv motor in a DF Cyberstorm and it works real nice on a 1716, the stock veles/zelos prop.

BTW TP motors are superior to Leopard and SSS. If you want to go this way with the boat, the TP 3650 1550kv with 43-45 mm prop (the veles/zelos one again) should do the deed. Definitely the SK180 esc. Keep in mind that it is not just prop diameter but pitch that makes a difference as well, you may need try a few to get the best for your setup.

My 0.02.

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Originally Posted by Peter A

Please don't be upset, but if you want a decent 6s boat get a different hull if you want to go fast with good handling.

BTW TP motors are superior to Leopard and SSS. If you want to go this way with the boat, the TP 3650 1550kv with 43-45 mm prop (the veles/zelos one again) should do the deed. Keep in mind that it is not just prop diameter but pitch that makes a difference as well. My 0.02.

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Not 'upset', at all...and, thank you for your 2?...it truly is appreciated. I certainly don't plan on racing the SonicWake, nor did I every intend to. By switching to 6S, yes, I am trying to make the boat faster...but, in doing so, my far greatly "want" is to lower the temperatures, and also increase running time. For racing (if I get into that), I'd definitely be getting an entirely different boat. The second SonicWake hull is specifically because of the custom graphics.

That being said. I've been trying to come up with two formulas to help determine possible motor kVs, and prop diameters & pitches. Unfortunately, while I was a math whiz 35 years ago, my knowledge of calculus has greatly diminished over the years. I've been sitting here with pen & pair for almost three hours, trying out multiple formulas, and u still couldn't figure it out. At one point, I thought I had...but, it fell apart.

In my calculator idea, I refer to 'z' as "estimated speed", but it's better to NOT think of it as actual "speed", but more as "just a number". Here are the 'properties' of the formulas I was trying to come up with:

x = motor kV
y = battery Voltage (typically 7.4, 11.1, 14.4, or 22.2)
a = prop diameter
b = prop pitch
z = theoretical "speed"

Calculator #1 would be for determining the theoretical speed achieved by any combination of motor, voltage, and prop. Additionally, someone could have used it to determine estimated "top speeds" with other battery voltages (say, 22.2V, if 14.4V was initially used). Calculator #2 would have allowed the final figure, & same battery voltage, along with different prop diameters & pitches, to be used to determine what kV motor would achieve approximately the same "speed".

Unfortunately, my attempts have failed. As I said, I thought I had it...but, in the end, something went screwy. Thankfully, someone pointed me in the right direction, directing me to a different online calculator. While it uses pre-selected (Octura & Prather) props. it does show more accurate speeds, and, working backwards, I can determine probable motor kVs, based on different prop choices.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]

There is a speed calculator at the top of the page.

I agree with Peter. There are much better handling hulls out there than the Sonicwake and the DF Cyberstorm is arguably one of the best race proven V mono hulls out there to build up and experiment with. The TFL Pursuit is similar but not quite as good quality but very well made and handles way better than the Sonicwake at much greater speeds. Don't get me wrong the Sonicwake is a nice boat for what it is and I'm enjoying mine but it's not something I would spend a lot of time and $ on upgrades.

I understand you want to build a custom Sonicwake which is fine but Proboat spent a lot of time and effort in the design to make it as fast, efficient and cost effective as they could for entry level boaters who just want to have some fun with something they could run right out of the box. IMHO there is not much more you can do to improve the performance and handling of the Sonicwake because of the limitations of the design of the hull.

Please excuse me while I go put on my asbestos suit.

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Please excuse me while I go put on my asbestos suit.

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:flashfire: does that come with a tinfoil hat? Asking for a friend. :lol:

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Originally Posted by Peter A

:flashfire: does that come with a tinfoil hat? Asking for a friend. [emoji38]

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Better yet, does it come with a Proton Pack?
Who ya gonna call.....

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Originally Posted by Capt'n Crash

There are much better handling hulls out there...the DF Cyberstorm is arguably one of the best...the TFL Pursuit is similar but not quite as good quality but very well made...Don't get me wrong the Sonicwake is a nice boat for what it is and I'm enjoying mine but it's not something I would spend a lot of time and $ on upgrades. IMHO there is not much more you can do to improve the performance and handling of the Sonicwake because of the limitations of the design of the hull.

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The only reason I've been wanting to "upgrade" the SonicWake is to lower the temps (especially on 6S), and increase runtimes...not for 'performance' increases. Yes, I've been testing different props (and, will continue to do so), to see how fast it might be able to go...but, it's not as if I ever considered, even for a microsecond, racing it (obviously, it's not intended for racing). While it IS great on 4S, I've read enough "horror stories" of what's happened to others on 6S, which is why I haven't even tried 6S yet. Many appear to have 'resolved' this by replacing the ESC with the Seaking 180A, as well as replacing the connectors.

Recently, someone posted a video, showing his SonicWake having been upgraded with the Seaking ESC, but he also replaced the motor with a Leopard 1050kV. He didn't do it performance gains...heck, with a 1050kV motor on 6S, and a 50-52mm diameter prop, it's only going somewhat faster than the stock motor & prop on 4S...but to lower temps, and increase runtime. He's said the temps are barely warmer than 'warm', and he's getting 15+ minute runtimes. That's what led me to considering the idea of a lower kV motors. I figured, if he's getting 15 minutes on 6400mAh 6S, with a 52mm prop, I could (potentially) go with something around a 1300-1500kV motor, and a 48mm prop, achieve approx the same speed, approx the same temps, and still have a reasonable 10 minute runtimes.

I realize, this is just my theory, and I have nothing to back it up...but, theories don't get 'proven' unless someone tries it out. Some people in the Traxxas forum thought I was crazy when I said I was going to replace the Rustler 4x4's stock 3500kV motor with a Fantom Racing 4200kV motor, AND run it on 3S. Well, with the proper gearing, I proved it could be done, and I was able to keep the motor, and HW XR8 ESC, relatively cool. Don't ask about top speed...I only purchased the GPS tracker a couple of weeks ago, and haven't placed it inside the Rusty, yet...but, I can tell you it's faster than stock on 2S, but slower than stock on 3S.

That having been said, I'm willing to spend a lil money on the SonicWake if it means running 6S, lowering temps, increasing runtime, and still providing a 'respectable' speed. The reason I created this thread was to get specific motor suggestions, and prop (diameter & pitch) suggestions. Again, I'm not trying to turn the SonicWake into a race boat...while I still want it to go faster than stock on 4S, I'm primarily interested in increasing the runtime (at least 8 minutes, preferable 10+minutes), and decreasing temps, while running 6S.

Well...nothing stopping you from experimenting and that's the best way to gain knowledge and experience. I think most FE boaters are happy with a 4 minute run time without overheating the electronics but if your goal is 8-10 minutes go for it.

As you know for me the stock boat on 6s with a 42x55 GrimRacer prop is just the ticket. No horror stories here I couldn't be happier with the boats performance. Mind you I only get about 3 min 30 second run with two 3s 5400 mAh lipos but I'm okay with that.

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Originally Posted by Peter A

:flashfire: does that come with a tinfoil hat? Asking for a friend. :lol:

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Ahh...no tinfoil hat is only required for encounters with aliens and strong electromagnetic energy :olleyes:

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Originally Posted by Capt'n Crash

I think most FE boaters are happy with a 4 minute run time without overheating the electronics but if your goal is 8-10 minutes go for it. Mind you I only get about 3 min 30 second run with two 3s 54000 mAh lipos but I'm okay with that.

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Uh...could you please reconfirm that battery capacity? Unless you've truly found 54,000mAh, and doing a way to shove them inside the SonicWake...lol. I know that, on PowerHobby 50C 5000mAh packs, that's the approx runtime I'm getting on the CNC 4514. Ihaven't had time to test out the other props I've picked up from Steve, but I'll be taking them with me when I depart for Vegas (again) tomorrow morning.

Speaking of props, I looked up the GrimRacer 42x55. Does it need to be sharpened & balanced? Asking because, if it does, unless Steve carries it that way, I wouldn't be able to order it (plus, the "stock" version is currently out of stock). Also, of you can confirm, if my math is correct, that only has a 1.3 pitch, which would it considerably slower than the stock prop. Is my match correct? Or, did I do some really screwy math? If it is a "slower" prop, what speeds are you hitting with it, and what kV motor are you running?

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]

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Originally Posted by Capt'n Crash

There are much better handling hulls out there than the Sonicwake and the DF Cyberstorm is arguably one of the best race proven V mono hulls out there to build up and experiment with. The TFL Pursuit is similar but not quite as good quality but very well made and handles way better than the Sonicwake at much greater speeds.

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Regarding the DF Cyberstorm, I checked it out, and it definitely appears nice. Honestly, I've been prepping for my second boat, and, as mentioned in weeks past, my #1 choice has been the Pursuit (which you also mentioned). When I was considering my first boat, it did come down to that, and the SonicWake, with me deciding on the SonicWake. I decided this for a few reasons, one of which was that I figured it might be a better boat to learn on, which it is. But, it's also a blast, thus the reason I want to use it (essentially) as a 'basher', increasing the runtime, and keeping it cool while doing so.

Getting back to the Pursuit vs Cyberstorm matter, I just found out this morning that TFL discontinued the 'hull & hardware' package of the Pursuit, so it's only available as an ARTR (which I'm perfectly ok with). However, from what I've been able to discern, the Cyberstorm is only available as a 'bare hull'...not even as a 'hull & hardware' package...which I'm not ready for. Put another way, I'm "crawling" now, and ready to give "walking" a try, but I'm nowhere close to being ready to "run". Is the Cyberstorm available as an ARTR, or 'hull & hardware' package? If so, I'd be willing to consider it. If not, then the Pursuit becomes my #1 option again.

With my off-road vehicles, I always prefer kits over RTRs...but, with a boat, I'm not ready to build from a bare hull. I don't have the necessary equipment (heck, don't even know what the "necessary equipment" might be, but pretty certain I don't have), nor do I have the money, or space a for said equipment. Even a 'hull & hardware' package might be more than I could deal with right now...for example, do at least some of the holes come pre-drilled, or would I need to drill out all holes?

Honestly, is it even worth it for me to consider building right now? Or, am I better off (for now) just going with an ARTR? I have a cordless drill, a cordless screwdriver, and a Dremel...but, that's the extent of my power tools. Plus, my workspace is currently the size of a bed...ok, my workspace currently IS a bed (wife & I live in a fairly small condo, and even the patio (5' x 12') is too small to realistically use). If need be, I can use the coffee table as a workspace, which is more rigid than the bed, but it's also smaller (don't ask about the dining table...that's another story).

I've actually been enjoying the SonicWake so much, that I'm starting to realize I'm enjoying "the water" more than "the land". It's so enjoyable, I'm considering selling some of my land vehicles, to make room for another 1-2 boats (in addition to the SonicWake, 'whatever' becomes my 2nd boat, and the "rescue boat" I've got coming). I'm starting to wish I had discovered FEs before I got so heavily involved in off-road.


~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]

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Originally Posted by Panther6834

Uh...could you please reconfirm that battery capacity?

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]

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Ahh..silly me I added an extra zero. I meant 5400 mAh.

Yes GrimRacer props need to be balanced and sharpened unless you buy them that way. They may be a little hard to find these days because Aquacraft has gone the way of the dodo bird a while back.

Your math is correct it is a 1.3 pitch which is half the pitch of the stock prop but that doesn't mean you are getting half the speed. Don't forget the unloaded rpm on the stock setup on 6s is 41,800 which is pretty high to begin with for a high pitch prop. I'm running the stock Dynamite 1900Kv motor on 6s. No cooling problems whatsoever with the single line stock rudder.

In the end, I decided on the Leopard 3674 1400kV. According to the boat/speed calculator on radiocontrolinfo.com, if using an Octura X642, a 1900kV (stock motor) on 4S produces a theoretical maximum of 40.7mph. Keeping all stats the same, with the exception of changing to a 1400kV motor on 6S, this should produce a theoretical maximum of 45mph. The end result is a cooler motor, slightly longer run-times, wand a slightly faster speed. I could have dropped even lower, to the SSS 3674 1300kV, which would produce a theoretical maximum of 41.8 (1.1mph faster than the stock motor on 4S). However, I figured, by going with the slightly-more-powerful 1400kV motor, I could go with a slightly smaller prop...or, better yet, a prop with less pitch...either of which would be less taxing on the electronics, thus allowing them to run even cooler, while still maintaining approximately the same max speed as the 1900kV on 4S.

As I've said from the beginning, my primary goals were to decrease temperatures, and to (hopefully) slightly increase the run-time. While a speed increase was not part of the 'goal', if that could also take place, all the better. I believe, with this motor, on 6S, I will have achieved my primary goal, and I might even get that speed "bonus". Whether positive, negative, or 'general', I thank everyone who offered input. Extra thanks to Dave for his input in not only this matter, but also the "other boat" matter...for which I should have an update VERY soon.

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Originally Posted by Panther6834

With my off-road vehicles, I always prefer kits over RTRs...but, with a boat, I'm not ready to build from a bare hull. I don't have the necessary equipment (heck, don't even know what the "necessary equipment" might be, but pretty certain I don't have), nor do I have the money, or space a for said equipment. Even a 'hull & hardware' package might be more than I could deal with right now...for example, do at least some of the holes come pre-drilled, or would I need to drill out all holes?

Honestly, is it even worth it for me to consider building right now? Or, am I better off (for now) just going with an ARTR? I have a cordless drill, a cordless screwdriver, and a Dremel...but, that's the extent of my power tools. Plus, my workspace is currently the size of a bed...ok, my workspace currently IS a bed (wife & I live in a fairly small condo, and even the patio (5' x 12') is too small to realistically use). If need be, I can use the coffee table as a workspace, which is more rigid than the bed, but it's also smaller (don't ask about the dining table...that's another story).

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Don't let that put you off, I raced and set records for years with boats I built from scratch in my bedroom within a shared house, at first using a big speaker on my bed as a workbench, then upgraded to a 1" 4'x2' piece of MDF on the bed as a workbench and sitting on the speaker for better ergonomics. You already have most of the equipment you need, I designed and built the 3 out of the 4 cats below on my bed, with only a pencil, a steel rule, a Jr hacksaw, a scalpel with a #11 blade, assorted emery papers, a store card, masking tape, a tub of pins, a cordless drill, and a set of drill bits for tools. A Dremel, a pair of set squares, an adjustable protractor, and a set of taps save a lot of time and are very nice to have too, but are not really needed. If you are talking about buying a hull and fitting it out with off the shelf hardware, all you need is a pencil, a drill and drill bits, you don't even need a hard workbench, the mean machine (middle right) I fitted out with only a pencil, a drill, masking tape and a scalpel, resting on my lap whilst sitting on my bed.

Attachment 169268

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Speaking of props, I looked up the GrimRacer 42x55. Does it need to be sharpened & balanced? Asking because, if it does, unless Steve carries it that way, I wouldn't be able to order it (plus, the "stock" version is currently out of stock). Also, of you can confirm, if my math is correct, that only has a 1.3 pitch, which would it considerably slower than the stock prop. Is my match correct? Or, did I do some really screwy math? If it is a "slower" prop, what speeds are you hiring work it, and what kV motor are you running?

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When considered as part of the setup as a whole there is no such thing as a slow prop for most sport boating or racing applications. While a 1.3 pitch prop will be slower than a 1.6 prop at the same RPM, it also has less load, so you can use a higher KV to spin it faster for the same power and get that speed difference back. I know a bunch of people that race on 1.2 or 1.25 pitch props. The exception is if you are doing SAWs and already spinning the motor hella fast and getting into motor hysteresis inefficiencies you cant speed it up any more without increasing the heat exponentially, so you have to increase the pitch.

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Your math is correct it is a 1.3 pitch which is half the pitch of the stock prop but that doesn't mean you are getting half the speed. Don't forget the unloaded rpm on the stock setup on 6s is 41,800 which is pretty high to begin with for a high pitch prop. I'm running the stock Dynamite 1900Kv motor on 6s. No cooling problems whatsoever with the single line stock rudder.

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Your maths is off here, going from 1.6 pitch to 1.3 pitch isn't half the pitch, it is over 3 quarters. For easy maths lets take an unrealistic 100mm prop (the same maths applies to other sizes it is just easier to see with a nice round number), with 1.3 pitch it travels 130mm per revolution, and with 1.6 pitch it travels 160mm per revolution it is only a 23% difference. You are right in as much as the 1.6 pitch prop will have more load and thus drop more voltage under load, so the speed differential when in use will be smaller than the theoretical 23%.

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Originally Posted by NativePaul

Don't let that put you off, I raced and set records for years with boats I built from scratch in my bedroom within a shared house, at first using a big speaker on my bed as a workbench, then upgraded to a 1" 4'x2' piece of MDF on the bed as a workbench and sitting on the speaker for better ergonomics. You already have most of the equipment you need, I designed and built the 3 out of the 4 cats below on my bed, with only a pencil, a steel rule, a Jr hacksaw, a scalpel with a #11 blade, assorted emery papers, a store card, masking tape, a tub of pins, a cordless drill, and a set of drill bits for tools. A Dremel, a pair of set squares, an adjustable protractor, and a set of taps save a lot of time and are very nice to have too, but are not really needed. If you are talking about buying a hull and fitting it out with off the shelf hardware, all you need is a pencil, a drill and drill bits, you don't even need a hard workbench, the mean machine (middle right) I fitted out with only a pencil, a drill, masking tape and a scalpel, resting on my lap whilst sitting on my bed.

Attachment 169268




When considered as part of the setup as a whole there is no such thing as a slow prop for most sport boating or racing applications. While a 1.3 pitch prop will be slower than a 1.6 prop at the same RPM, it also has less load, so you can use a higher KV to spin it faster for the same power and get that speed difference back. I know a bunch of people that race on 1.2 or 1.25 pitch props. The exception is if you are doing SAWs and already spinning the motor hella fast and getting into motor hysteresis inefficiencies you cant speed it up any more without increasing the heat exponentially, so you have to increase the pitch.





Your maths is off here, going from 1.6 pitch to 1.3 pitch isn't half the pitch, it is over 3 quarters. For easy maths lets take an unrealistic 100mm prop (the same maths applies to other sizes it is just easier to see with a nice round number), with 1.3 pitch it travels 130mm per revolution, and with 1.6 pitch it travels 160mm per revolution it is only a 23% difference. You are right in as much as the 1.6 pitch prop will have more load and thus drop more voltage under load, so the speed differential when in use will be smaller than the theoretical 23%.

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Thank you for the info...as well as the boat-building encouragement. While I'm still not ready to build (from scratch, or from a hull), I do feel more confident that building from a hull is a more realistic probability. I still never to have a better understanding of not only the internal workings, but also of the entirety of the parts that make up the boat. The SonicWake isn't exactly the best boat to learn that. However, my second boat will be built by Steve. Having a complete parts list will give me that "complete parts involved" understanding, so that, when it comes time for my 3rd, or 4th, boat (not counting a "rescue boat"), I should be ready.

Getting this thread back on-track to the subject I created it for, I finally made a decision for the SonicWake's replacement motor - Leopard 3674 1400kV. Based on an Octura X642 (the closest I could find to the stock prop), the stock motor on 4S calculated out to a theoretical max speed of 40.7mph. As my primary goal was to decrease the temps of the electronics, and increase runtime, this should be a good choice. I could have gone with the SSD 3674 1300kV, which, on 6S, would have only been 1.1mph faster than the stock motor on 4S, but I felt the sight speed increase (45mph) of the Leopard motor in 6S was 'acceptable'. I can always prop-down...say, to a 1.5, or even 1.4, pitch, which would return the boat to "stock 4S speed", while lowering temps even further. According to the email I received a few minutes ago, Steve just shipped it.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]

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Originally Posted by NativePaul

Your maths is off here, going from 1.6 pitch to 1.3 pitch isn't half the pitch, it is over 3 quarters. For easy maths lets take an unrealistic 100mm prop (the same maths applies to other sizes it is just easier to see with a nice round number), with 1.3 pitch it travels 130mm per revolution, and with 1.6 pitch it travels 160mm per revolution it is only a 23% difference. You are right in as much as the 1.6 pitch prop will have more load and thus drop more voltage under load, so the speed differential when in use will be smaller than the theoretical 23%.

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Thanks for that explanation about the difference in pitch Paul...very informative.

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Originally Posted by Panther6834

Thank you for the info...as well as the boat-building encouragement. While I'm still not ready to build (from scratch, or from a hull), I do feel more confident that building from a hull is a more realistic probability. I still never to have a better understanding of not only the internal workings, but also of the entirety of the parts that make up the boat. The SonicWake isn't exactly the best boat to learn that. However, my second boat will be built by Steve. Having a complete parts list will give me that "complete parts involved" understanding, so that, when it comes time for my 3rd, or 4th, boat (not counting a "rescue boat"), I should be ready.

Getting this thread back on-track to the subject I created it for, I finally made a decision for the SonicWake's replacement motor - Leopard 3674 1400kV. Based on an Octura X642 (the closest I could find to the stock prop), the stock motor on 4S calculated out to a theoretical max speed of 40.7mph. As my primary goal was to decrease the temps of the electronics, and increase runtime, this should be a good choice. I could have gone with the SSD 3674 1300kV, which, on 6S, would have only been 1.1mph faster than the stock motor on 4S, but I felt the sight speed increase (45mph) of the Leopard motor in 6S was 'acceptable'. I can always prop-down...say, to a 1.5, or even 1.4, pitch, which would return the boat to "stock 4S speed", while lowering temps even further. According to the email I received a few minutes ago, Steve just shipped it.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]

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So can you run your SW with a Leopard 3674 1400k on 6s with the stock Dynamite 120a ESC OR DO YOU ONLY run it on 4s with this motor? Also, if I was thinking about adding the Leopard 4076 1050kv and installing a Seaking 180 ESC so I can run faster on 6s! Anyways, what kind of run times are you getting on 4s with your Leo 3674 1400kv motor with your stock 120 Dynamite ESC? Would like to get your thoughts and opinions?

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Originally Posted by UpliFT-RC

So can you run your SW with a Leopard 3674 1400k on 6s with the stock Dynamite 120a ESC OR DO YOU ONLY run it on 4s with this motor? Also, if I was thinking about adding the Leopard 4076 1050kv and installing a Seaking 180 ESC so I can run faster on 6s! Anyways, what kind of run times are you getting on 4s with your Leo 3674 1400kv motor with your stock 120 Dynamite ESC? Would like to get your thoughts and opinions?

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I'm not running the Leopard on the stock Dynamite ESC...I'm running it on a Seaking 180A ESC - Leopard 3674-1400kV & Seaking 180A ESC, on 6S only, with CNC 4514 prop. That's what I was running when one of the motor's wires 'disengaged' from the bullet connector three weeks ago, and that's what I was running last weekend (after resoldering the bullet). She was running great, through the better part of three pair of 3S packs, until she lost one of her trim tabs (my fault, as I'm fairly certain I forgot to completely re-tightened the screw after adjusting the trim tab mount).

The stock motor & stock ESC are great on 4S, but too many people have had problems running the stock electronics on 6S, which is exactly what led to swapping ESCs, and to going with a lower kV motor. Another very good ESC option would probably be the OSE Raider 150A. You could probably run the 1400kV with the stock ESC on 6S, and not have any problems...but, don't quote me on that. I'm still too new to FE to know for certain.

What I do know is that the stock electronics run great on 4S, and you can easily get more speed with the proper prop. The electronics I'm currently running appear to be great in 6S...and, likewise, can probably get more speed with the proper prop. In either case - stock electronics on 4S, or 'upgraded' electronics on 6S - you need to be careful with your prop selection, and you need to "ramp up" prop choices slowly. Additionally, if your looking for faster 'continuous' running (full-throttle until the ESC's LVC kicks in), you'll need to be more cautious in your prop selection, and take more frequent temp readings than you would on SAW runs.

All of this depends entirely on what your "goal" is. My "goal" is NOT making mine into the fastest boat possible...mine is making it into a longer/cooler running boat (and, the longer running, the better). Running 4S 5000mAh on stock electronics, I'd typically get approx 3.5min of WOT. If, on my current electronics, I can get 5min of WOT on 6S, and still have the electronics 'cool', then I will have achieved my goal. If I can get 6min, I will have exceeded my goal. The longer the runtime I can achieve being that (if possible), the greater I will have exceeded my goal. If it takes replacing the Leopard 1400kV motor with the SSS 1300kV motor I just received (which, I realize, would make the boat slightly slower), so be it...again, the most important goal is "longest runtime", while still keeping the electronics 'cool'.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place