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Only had mine a couple of weeks and so far, I have drilled out the water inlets on the rudder, added larger waterlines and a splitter. raised the strut a tad, upgraded to a OAS flex shaft and put some 6's 50c in. I'm still running the stock prop, but have a Prather 215 and 220 I plan to try on her later today. I am not sure how fast it's going. but scary fast. Can anyone suggest a GPS?....as always, open for your suggestions.
Lead
My stock BJv3 was doing 47 on 6s. Other than the OSE upgraded flex it is box stock. On a pair of 40c 5000mAh.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06...3cb1b245f0.jpg
The Garmin forerunner 101 is a great little device for clocking speed.
very nice .... i reinforced my hull but now feel its too heavy hope i didnt ruin it.. boat still airs out very nice but you can tell its solid going by... ran 44 mph on 6s quick pass stock 1800 motor and esc.... im installing my leopard motor and my seaking 180 esc shortly
i had to reinforce so much due to my crack when i blew over.... the hull split on the sponson but cracked a good 5 inches down the side along the seam..
Attachment 133675Attachment 133676Attachment 133677Attachment 133678
added about 1.5 lbs to the hull but now its ready for more jam.... seaking 180 esc and a 1600 kv for 6s? whats a solid 6s setup?
Leadfingers is this the V3 BJ 29? Just curious what you thought of the Prather 215 and 220?
Yes, V3 BJ 29. I have not had a chance to try them yet. I will let you know how they do on the BJ, been running them on a Spartan and it seemed to like the 215 a little better. Ordered a GPS today, then I can tell for sure about the speed. I really like this little cat. it's a fun boat, just a little tight to work on, compared to the Spartan.
Thanks, my BlackJack showed up 2 weeks ago but not yet christened :( Before I take her to get wet I am waiting for a dual water pickup rudder and have been curious about props. Good luck with everything, keep me/us posted. Thanks.
What dual pickup rudder are you planning to use? I have been thinking about doing the same for mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by vette 00
vette, where did you find a duel water pickup rudder? Does it fit the stock rudder mount or do you have to change that also?
Attachment 134021 This is what I plan on trying the rudder pictured on this post, it's about 5mm longer than the stock rudder (similar to OSE's "Speedmaster Dual Pickup Tapered Rudder Assembly"). I hate to mess with the original because the black rudder and mounts look nice. But I am going to try this out, I won't be using the mount itself; only the rudder and the bracket/mounting piece for the servo arm. It appears that it will slide into the original mount assuming the pin diameter is the same. Not sure, but I wanted to try this first before adding any additional pickup tubes or inlets.
Let us know how it goes vette. I was going to try the same thing but, when I tried to remove the set screw on the rudder rod it stripped out, not sure if Proboat put Loctite on it or not, but it would not come out. Maybe some other BJ owners will chime in if they have had similar problems........GOOD LUCK !
I tried the prather 215 prop this weekend, running 6's 50c 11.1 after a couple of runs check the temps, the esc and motor leads were hot about 165F.I put back on the stock prop and put the strut back to the factory settings, but still getting hot temps. I have been following a couple of threads and it seems that lots of other folks are having the same issues with heat, trying to run 6's.
The new BJ 29 was advertised as and here is quote, "Water-cooled Dynamite water cooled marine 120 Amp ESC (6S compatible) and 2000Kv brushless motor", so I am a little confused and disappointed that you need to upgrade to 180 esc and better connectors, because the stock 120 esc and 2000 motor are not compatible.
If that is the case, is Proboat guilty of false advertising or am I missing something here? I have over $250 invested in two new lipos and can't run them with out taking a risk of burning everything up.
I have been running mine on 6s with a pair of 40c 5000 3s cheap chinese packs and have been fine. Other than an OSE upgraded flex, it is box stock.
I limit my run time, when on 6s, to 3-4 hard minutes. Dont want to overdischarge the batteries.
I read somewhere that some of the first run V3s had the ESC timing set to 15deg. and later Proboat dropped it down to 7.5deg.
You may need to look at that. If yours is set with the higher timing... It could be the primary cause of heat issues
Thanks for the input shua, I will try changing the timing to 7.5 deg and see if that helps.
Have you test it yet with 7.5 timing?Quote:
Originally Posted by Leadfingers
I got lower temp but not on the connectors to the motor.
I maby think 22.2v always going to give hot connectors on the motor?
Anyway im not happy with 165-180F so i have bought a new 2s lipo to make 5s.
Same type battery as the 3s, mh and c. Im going to try it with a stock sharpen and balanced prop that i have order to hope i get 45-50mph on 5s if i adjust it right.
V2 also have burn hot motor connectors, i dont think its going to be a lot cooler when you use high voltage. Question is if it have anything to say.
Connectors are very close to the front of the hull.. It rest in the roof of the hull in front.
Hi Leadfingers,Quote:
Originally Posted by Leadfingers
Can you please elaborate on why you feel the 120A ESC and the 2000kv motor are incompatible? Please tell me more about why you are unable to run your boat as advertised.
The connectors getting hot is not something that we, Pro Boat, see as an issue with this boat. Can you please tell me the following about your experience?
1-Is the heat shrink over the connectors deforming, or getting so hot that it splits?
2-Is the heat from the connectors damaging the finish of the hull, where they are tucked under?
3-Is the solder melting and are the connectors coming loose off the wire?
4-Is the ESC going in to thermal shutdown?
I would love to look in to this further if you have some hard data you can share with us that supports the fact that we are making a false claim for this product; the compatibility of the electronics. We don't see someone's opinion of " I don't feel they should be this hot" as a valid reason to re engineer this product.
Keep in mind that brushless RC car motors now days get over 200*,and this is normal, at least for some of our products it is and I can guarantee you that we are not replacing electronics because of this.
I can tell you that amperage wise, the ESC is not even functioning at 80% of it's maximum rated amperage capacity, with high timing.
Rafeal, I share the same concerns about these temps from the "proboat" electronics as well as many others who use this forum. I didn't see any thread asking "proboat" to re engineer or replace these systems but rather post an observation on a forum used by other modelers that these temps seem excessive. Proboat could have done us all a favor by mentioning these operating temps "motors now days get over 200*" in their user instructions/manuals. FYI - 3rd degree skin burns happen 1 second after exposure to 155 degrees - I would think it would have been mentioned somewhere so that proboat customer/users don't get hurt. Maybe you can tell that I didn't appreciate the manner of your response to a user of this forum let alone one of your customers. I purchased my Blackjack 29 V3 from OSE and if this is the type of response customers can expect back from proboat on proboat products I will gladly take my modeling investments (over $500 on this one alone) elsewhere.
Refeal, I only made two short runs with the 6's and checked the temps, the wires and connectors did not melt, but they were smoking hot. I did not want to take a chance on burning something up so I discontinued the run until I could get more information about the heat issues. I did a couple of searches and found that apparently lots of other BJ owners are having similar problems with the new set up. Here's a link to a thread, that you responded to about some of the same issues, interesting reading!
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2300607 I am just a novice, but some of the guys that responded, seem to know what they were talking about.You have to be aware that this has been an on going problem. Now is a good time to straighten us all out
Vette 00, I apologize if my response offended you, or anyone else. I didnt intend to be disrespectful or offensive towards anyone with my response; text is very one dimentional. I was asking for factual information that supported the idea that we may be misleading people with our product. I personally feel it's fair to ask for information that supports the need for a larger ESC to handle the 2000kv motor on 6s. If a person chooses to upgrade the ESC for piece of mind, it should be justified as that, a want, rather than a need to operate this product.
As far as your concern for burns, that is a valid point. When I made mention to not being concerned about the heat from the connectors, I wasn't referring to the possibility of someone getting injured by them. I was referring to concern for their operation. Customers safety is always our #1 priority. We will look in to this and try and find the best possible solution and explore the use of warning labels.
Leadfingers, I understand your concerns as well. I've been through that thread plenty of times and it seems like it's mostly information based on people's personal feeling on this situation. Some people see the heat as concerning, though everything is operating "normally", nothing is melting, or shutting down. That was the purpose of my bullet points. Customers are very good at contacting us and reporting problems. I will check with Product Suport tomorrow and see how many people have contacted us regarding this concern. Unfortunately there is no criteria for how hot a bullet connector should get. It's obvious that what we feel is acceptable, is not well received by some customers. Each combination of ESC and motor will generate a specific amount of heat based on the design of the hull, relative to operating voltage. My personal feeling due to my years of experience in the fast electric segment of R/C is that temperature depends on the application. I personally have put together plenty of power systems in my boats where the connectors were over 250* and never experienced any issues.
My presence on these forums is by choice, because I'm passionate about our products and the hobby, in general. Some facts that I've chosen to share with customers has been passed off as a political smoke screen for the company I represent. I'm ok with that, I don't take it personal. All I'm trying to do is put our customer's mind at ease by pointing out that this concern is normal during this products operation.
Rafael, i understand you about that, it works and it have not burned up.
Would be worse if the esc burned up because of this but everyone are just affraid when they touch so hot wires.
Boat works and run fast and stabile on 6s if you look away from the hot motor wires.
I also think the boat should be programmed to 7.5 out of the box so the beginners that dosnt know anything about boats not get so mutch heat after a run.
But we get concerned when the wires is so hot that you burn your fingers when you hold them for 3 seconds.
Absolutley a great boat and i think this is the best rtr boat on the marked!
Solid and more layers of fiberglass.
Very stabile, you realy get mutch more for the money.
Like i said only concern is the hot motor wire, and when you say they could be hot on the high voltage its fine.
The wires rest on the roof inside the hull, i have not get melt marks but im affraid to get it.
I think that is maby the only issue i could see here with hot wires inside the fiberglass hull?
I am greatful that you are here, and spending your own personal time to try to help out and further the "fun factor" for us allQuote:
Originally Posted by Rafael_Lopez
THANK YOU Rafael!:buttrock:
My BJ29v3 is doing well on 6s. Temps are in line as far as I am concerned.
The key for me on Temps is NOT running the boat until the battery packs hit LVC. I will do some mixture of sport and aggressive driving while using a timer to find how long is long enough. Pushing the batteries down close to or all the way down to LVC, for me, causes excessive heat and other problems. Once I find that threshold of time... I reduce it by a minute and then I know how long I have to really drop the hammer, yet not overstress the batteries or electronics.
I finely had a little time to get the BJ out for a test run. I lowered the timing to 7.5. and was hoping this would help with the hot wire temps. After a couple of short passes, I brought her back in and to my disappointment found the timing adjustment didn't help.
The motor connectors were 185F, and esc connectors about the same, "HOT" !
I really like the BJ 29, it handles well and hit 51mph, running 6's, a fun little boat, but I am very disappointed that I can't run the 6's, as advertised, without dealing with what I feel (and many others) are excessive temps. I am sure Proboat will say, as long as nothing melted, caught fire or shutdown, it's okay and not a problem, but for me and apparently lots of other BJ owners it is a problem. After reading several threads relating to this issue, I have decided to upgrade the esc and ordered a seeking 180 from OSE today and hope that helps lower the temps, will keep you posted. Thanks to OAS for this forum and to those who responded.
Leadfingers
Thanks for the update Leadfingers. If the 180 esc works for you I will be doing the same as I am not a fan of those temps on a water cooled boat.
What was the lipo temp and what type of lipo do you use?Quote:
Originally Posted by Leadfingers
This is the same experience that i have when i tried 7.5 timing. Same tempratures.
I guess everybody got the high temp, its a lot of people that is not on a forum to share, and many do not check temp on the wires after use and just run it and put it back of the car.
I understand you, i feel it the same way. OK the connectors is hot, but i do not want to risk any melt on the hull, and i dont want to risk the esc to be in fire eighter.
You are going to try the 180A seaking with stock motor first?
Very excited, when do you get it?
Give us a report in this thread :-)
What if we lower the timing to 3.5? Or even lower?
I'm going to try the 180 esc with the stock motor first and see how that works, but I also ordered a 3674/1900k motor as a back up. If the new esc doesn't bring the temps down, I plan to add it later. Thanks again to Steven at OSE for taking time to help.
Today i got new cooling line so i change them out, its same size like stock but i put it on the esc first and so on the motor and exit, think that would help a bit on esc temp.
Anyone other that runs the water trough the esc first ?
It was water to the esc on v2.
Attachment 134489
I am starting to think that the BJ3 could use 3 water pick ups, one for the motor, one for the esc and one for the connectors.
I did just receive my new rudder with dual pick ups and hope to get it painted and installed sometime in the near future. I am hoping that a separate fresh water line will help keep the esc a little cooler.
If I were you I would remove the 2 caps/diode in the SK-180 battery wires and install a nice cap bank. I burned up a new v3 SK-180 and I think it would have held up had I installed a nice cap bank. The caps are way to small IMO. One of the caps in the wires literally split all the way down one side of it.
vette, I spit the lines just inside the boat; near the transom and ran separate water lines to the esc and motor, that way each component is getting fresh cool water. I also have them to exit on opposite sides of the boat.....that way you can tell if the esc and motor are getting good water flow.
Mx thanks, will keep that in mind and I thought I was getting one of the best esc's out there. why does everything have to be upgraded to work properly?
Leadfingers, do you loose some of the pressure/speed of the waterflow when you use a splittet adapter?
It is stupid that everything need upgrades, but i have read good thing about the seaking 180A.
I got my esc colder just to add a longer line in to the esc so it get the water first and the motor get it last.
Temp on esc capitors is 10c lower, and the esc about 5c lower.
Esc cap 45c
Motor connectors 55-60
Ec5 45-55
This is on 5s. But i think i maby would try 6s tomorrow and check the temps, maby a little colder esc would help just a bit on the motor connectors, maby not?
I like it on 6s, heavy batteries and it super stabile.
That was the reason for i bought it.
Very excited about what your temp will be with stock motor and 180A esc.
Are you going to use stock 5.5 connectors on the motor?
I drilled out the rudder inlets and the outlet on top to make them larger, along with a larger water lines and the splitter, not sure about pressure but it did increase the volume of water. I like having the water coming out on both sides of the boat, easer to see. I am going to try the stock connectors first and see how they do, upgrade later if need be.