Has anyone had issues lately with these motors failing quickly? I have had 2 brand new motors fry back to back in 2 different hulls. No prop changes or load changes. Just melts wires off motors
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Has anyone had issues lately with these motors failing quickly? I have had 2 brand new motors fry back to back in 2 different hulls. No prop changes or load changes. Just melts wires off motors
TP....... J/kQuote:
Originally Posted by skater368
Yeah, Properchopper has an excellent thread " Blue printing AquaCraft motor ".... Do a search.
Guess it's not a new issue.
Also, it could be a bad batch....
Mije fried in 45 seconds, brand new. Although it's the 1800 kv.
Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk
Just knowing you're situation, you need to get rid of the stock deans, and bullet connectors and move to a larger size. 5.5mm appears to be the most popular choice. Then do the blue printing of the motor, adding additional heat shrink etc as you'll find in the above good advice.
Thank you. I will try again and review them. Does anyone know where to buy type 5.5mm? getting over it
Bonita
The larger the plugs the greater the surface area, the less the resistance.
Here is something that I always do with my stock class boats.
NO plugs, use solid 1/4" Dia. Copper rod. 3 pieces about 3/4" long.
Measure your wire Dia. on your ESC, Then measure your wire Dia. on your motor.
Now select your two drill bits for the different size wire so that the tined wire just slide in nicely.
Take the smaller drill bit of the two, and drill a hole all the way through the 3 Copper slugs.
Now take the larger drill that you selected for the larger wire, and drill a enlarged hole 3/8" deep or half way through the slug.
After you solder one of the wires in the slug, put a piece of 1 1/4" heat shrink on the wire that will be the farthest away from the slug,
so that when you heat it up to insert the last wire, you don't shrink the heat shrink.
Fill the slug up with good solder from both ends. then slide the heat shrink to cover the slug and shrink it up.
If you have done it right, You will never get a hot connection again when running your boat.
Larry
whenever there is heat in a wire or connector there is resistance. That is what is causing heat. resistance is power loss. You should always be checking temps and either pulling down your end points or getting larger wire/connectors.