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Question for all you 1/10 scalers. Coug, are you out there? How does one get enough weight forward with the modern cockpits and forward wings? Are you permanetly placing lead or other weight in the sponson tips? I just saw a pic of an H & M Bud with motor and esc pretty far back because there appeared to be no space. Where are the batts going? Thinking crazy thoughts of another build......Thinking 1994 Bud for simple paint. Thanks all.
some people put lead in the tips of the sponson. Batts are typically to sides as far forward as you can
One note, based on my experience: keep in mind that weight at the tips will exaggerate rocking from side to side if the boat becomes unsettled. Where it is feasible, I try to keep weight towards the centerline. If you have to add weight to the tips, add the weight on the inside, towards the tub. :thumbup1: On my 1/10 sport hydros, I typically add any necessary weight to the center of the tub, sometimes the underside, as far forward as possible.
On H&M scale models, Jim is 100% correct. We typically slide the batts as far forward as is possible. Many times, they straddle the motor which is placed as far forward as possible as well (including under the front nose on the tub. To do this, we typically install a motor mount with bolts that can be removed from the underside. I just use rubber washers to keep the water out or seeping in, but I don't know what other modelers do.
As an aside, I have added weight to the front wing itself, if you can. Best placement is in the shadow of where the wind would hit the model at speed. Depending on the shape of the wing, this could be on the underside or even right behind the wing.
In 1:10 Scale, I've seen weights added inside the very front of the canopy nose so it's not seen. Inside the front spar or just ahead of the flaps, depending on the boat design. I haven't had to add weight to any modern boats I've had, but I've had a few vintage boats that I couldn't get the batteries forward far enough on for sure and had to add a few ounces way up front before putting the battery in as far as I could. I too try to put my batteries in center line with the middle of the boat and not side to side. In the canopy boats, I try to plan my build so that I can fit a 4S pack underneath the driver platform as far forward as won't make it look strange or no longer allows clearance for the driver figures head at the top of the canopy. Adjusting your build to allow for battery and gear has to start early and be a part of your build if you want to take advantage of things you could change without completely gutting a finished build. It will save you many headaches later. Test fit some batteries when you're building just to make sure you've maximized the space you're able to make before you move with things that will be harder to change later. You might also consider the differences in battery size. Some guys use two 2s packs in series just because of where they can place them in the boat. It varies on how tall a 4s pack is depending on the manufacturer. Some are longer, but not as tall and some are shorter and taller. You might choose to run a certain battery just because it fits better in your boat. I only add weight if I absolutely have run out of good option. Consider other options to solving problems, like adding an air dam to the bottom of the boat to make it less likely to blow over. Adjust wings to trim the boat out at speed. Make a prop change to a prop that holds the transom up better. Change you shaft angle setup if necessary. Check rudder depth or other things on the boat that might change how the boat handles. Maybe sponson angle of attack is too high on a boat and you can make a modification on that. Figuring a boat out and solving problems is part of the hobby that I like, but it can take some testing time and thinking. Whatever you decide on building, put some thought into solving problems early in your build and don't be afraid to be creative and rethink someone else's plans or construction method if it allows you to achieve what you want and doesn't break competition rules etc. Take out a bulkhead if it's in your way. Cut away a little more of the decking if there is no real visible reason to keep it and it won't change the physical appearance on a scale model.