Has a worthy ESC been born? The Castle XLX2 looks to be an excellent ESC.

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Originally Posted by RaceMechaniX

It's a 4-40 screw in each corner. 3/32" hex driver is standard for 4-40's.

There is no need to grease the O-Ring. It's not sliding or rolling over something. It's a simple compression by the top cover. If you wish to know more you can read the Parker-Hannifin O-ring guide. It is the bible for O-rings.
https://www.parker.com/Literature/O-...ORD%205700.pdf

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Thanks, Tyler...3/32" it is. While on my way to the LHS (need to pick up a few things for my land RCs), I'll swing by Home Depot to pick one up...or, better yet, a (small) imperial hex wrench set.

As for that O-ring Bible, at almost 300 pages, it's a bit too long for my tastes. If I'm gonna be reading anything that long (or longer), it needs to have action, magic and/or spaceships in it...lol


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

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Originally Posted by RaceMechaniX

It's a 4-40 screw in each corner. 3/32" hex driver is standard for 4-40's.

There is no need to grease the O-Ring. It's not sliding or rolling over something. It's a simple compression by the top cover. If you wish to know more you can read the Parker-Hannifin O-ring guide. It is the bible for O-rings.
https://www.parker.com/Literature/O-...ORD%205700.pdf

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Sorry for the mis-information. 10-32 is the thread for the fittings.

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Originally Posted by longballlumber

Sorry for the mis-information. 10-32 is the thread for the fittings.

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No worries. It all comes out in the wash...so to speak...lol [emoji1687]


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

I got my Speedo sanded flat and ready for the cooling plate. I?m gonna toy with a retainer plate even with thermal poxy.
:rockon2:

I have a couple of questions and an idea about this ESC.

The chamfered edges of the ESC case compared to the previous rounded edges makes me believe that they have switched from a molded plastic case to a machined alloy case, is this correct?

They say the XLX2 is fully potted so I doubt anyone has removed the case, but has anyone seen prototype XLX2 power board/s naked? Or othewise know if it has a single or dual power board, and if it/they are single or double sided.

All the previous Castle ESCs I have seen have had FETs on both sides of the board, if that is the case with this one and a good potting compound was used we should be able to mount our water cooling solutions to the bottom of the case (maybe more neatly as there appears to be screw holes for mounting there already) without the cooling suffering too much which would remove the need to break/machine off the fins on top, and if we were to leave the air cooling solution on top, we may well even see better cooling than with the current top mounted water cooling, with much less effort, and an ESC that can easily be returned to stock.

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Originally Posted by NativePaul

I have a couple of questions and an idea about this ESC.

The chamfered edges of the ESC case compared to the previous rounded edges makes me believe that they have switched from a molded plastic case to a machined alloy case, is this correct?

They say the XLX2 is fully potted so I doubt anyone has removed the case, but has anyone seen prototype XLX2 power board/s naked? Or othewise know if it has a single or dual power board, and if it/they are single or double sided.

All the previous Castle ESCs I have seen have had FETs on both sides of the board, if that is the case with this one and a good potting compound was used we should be able to mount our water cooling solutions to the bottom of the case (maybe more neatly as there appears to be screw holes for mounting there already) without the cooling suffering too much which would remove the need to break/machine off the fins on top, and if we were to leave the air cooling solution on top, we may well even see better cooling than with the current top mounted water cooling, with much less effort, and an ESC that can easily be returned to stock.

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Hi Paul,
The entire ESC case is Aluminum and from what I heard the bottom does have a significant impact on cooling.(possibly the BEC circuit?) They even cut some heatsink style fins into the bottom side although only just a few and they are small.

Paul,
The case is machined from billet aluminum. I have not seen anyone cut out the board yet or try to remove the potted assembly from the case. Not sure whether the power PCBA is single or double sided. In the ICE and EDGE controllers they are double sided. I believe the Mamba line of ESC's have all been single sided. Since there are no visible caps on the XLX2 like the smaller Mamba controllers, I have to believe they are placed on the bottom side of the power PCBA. Then all the FET's would be mounted on the top side.

The potting material looks like a standard clear epoxy and not one of the high performance thermal potting materials. Those are usually very opaque due to a high volume of solids which conduct the heat. Castle may apply a TIM or other thermal interface between the caps and bottom of the case to remove heat and then add the epoxy potting compound.

-Tyler

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Originally Posted by RaceMechaniX

Paul,
The case is machined from billet aluminum. I have not seen anyone cut out the board yet or try to remove the potted assembly from the case. Not sure whether the power PCBA is single or double sided. In the ICE and EDGE controllers they are double sided. I believe the Mamba line of ESC's have all been single sided. Since there are no visible caps on the XLX2 like the smaller Mamba controllers, I have to believe they are placed on the bottom side of the power PCBA. Then all the FET's would be mounted on the top side.

The potting material looks like a standard clear epoxy and not one of the high performance thermal potting materials. Those are usually very opaque due to a high volume of solids which conduct the heat. Castle may apply a TIM or other thermal interface between the caps and bottom of the case to remove heat and then add the epoxy potting compound.

-Tyler

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Since you designed the water block for the XLX2, I propose an "idea". Granted, this idea isn't 100% the same as running everything in an enclosed boat, but could give an excellent approximation of the real-world end results. Here's my idea:

Take an XLX2 (without any cooling...no fan, no water block), motor, Rx, and battery (all connected), attach a temperature sensor to the ESC, and place everything inside a closed box. Also, you'd need to use a water pump (outside the box), connected to the motor's water jacket, to 'simulate' water moving through the system (and keep the motor cool). Then run the motor at full-throttle for...say...3 minutes, to and see what the temp is.

After waiting a good 30 minutes, place your water block on top of the ESC (obviously, with a thermal compound between the water block & ESC), and run the same test, seeing what the new max temp is. Finally (after another 30min), run the test a third time, but with the water block under the ESC for the final test. For the 2nd & 3rd tests, you'd have to redo the cooling tubes, so as to add the ESC's water block to the cooling line.

Such a serious of tests would not only show how effective the water block is (compared to a stock ESC workout any cooling), but it works also show whether, or not, placing the water block under the XLX2 cools the ESC any better than having the water block on top of the ESC. So...what say you? Is it worth your time & effort? This serious of tests could be done by anyone having already received the water block AND already having two XLX2 ESCs (one with the heatsink fins still attached, and one with the fins already removed.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

It's a good test proposal however from my testing I am satisfied with the performance of the cooler. Moreover the ESC is not suffering from borderline cooling. Comparing test results from previous EDGE/ICE controllers versus the XLX2 under similar conditions the XLX2 runs much cooler. Castle has greatly improved the efficiency and reduced the switching losses hence lower cooling requirement for equal power.

What cooling mod are you doing to the fc150? I have 1 that I'm setting up for a saw build? Thank you

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Originally Posted by Turbostang434

What cooling mod are you doing to the fc150? I have 1 that I'm setting up for a saw build? Thank you

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https://stumpfabrication.com/product...cooling-plates

Hey all,
We are working on the X8S controller next. First samples are being machined now. I will post pics as soon as completed.
-Tyler

I have been testing the XLX 2 on my Q mono with one of Don's cooling caps and am very impressed with the cooling. Have not seen over 100 degrees F* yet. 200-240 amps. My ICE controllers with tubes on the bars both sides runs 140+. Right now water surface temp is 65-70 degrees which is a cold as it gets here. In summer and 90+ water things heat up fast so I am looking forward to this ESC for our warmer weather. Used the grey RTV for making gaskets and no leaks. If that doesn't hold then 3M 5200 would be my choice.
Mic

Mic,

In my testing, the silicone was good for about 75 psi according to my air compressor. JB Weld quick, took it up to 125 psi. It might have gone higher but that's all my air compressor will do!

BTW, silicone tubing slides off of a nipple at about 25-30 psi, and with a zip tie to keep it on. It expands and to about 3" in diameter and then explodes at around 50-60 psi.

https://stumpfabrication.com/product...AZ1tQg_vaW6uso

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/27...g?v=1633385076

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/27...g?v=1633372902

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Originally Posted by donhuff

Mic,

In my testing, the silicone was good for about 75 psi according to my air compressor. JB Weld quick, took it up to 125 psi. It might have gone higher but that's all my air compressor will do!

BTW, silicone tubing slides off of a nipple at about 25-30 psi, and with a zip tie to keep it on. It expands and to about 3" in diameter and then explodes at around 50-60 psi.

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I love posts that share something useful! Data is what we need more of in this hobby! Thanks Don.

Looks like we can water cool a HobbyWing ESC also.
Attachment 174430

Attachment 174431

Attachment 174432

Don, have you raced those on air cooling? I have.. Q sport hydro upper 50s in Houston summer heat… not a drop of sweat.
But the water cooler is super… cool! Nice work!

No Jesse, I have not ever used one before. This one is a customers.

Saw some cool covers a guy in China made for their conversions.

Attachment 174543 Attachment 174544 Attachment 174545

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Originally Posted by RaceMechaniX

Hey all,
We are working on the X8S controller next. First samples are being machined now. I will post pics as soon as completed.
-Tyler

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Anymore on this? I’m thinking about getting X8 for my P mono.

How are these fairing with multi pole motors? normally i only have lehner motors in all my fast boats and most the ESC's i do have don't like the extra poles, but thinking to go a different route with 2x Neu 1527, 2300kv & 6s in a new SAW hull I've just become the caretaker of... Would be spinning some 45mm + 3 blades

vvviivvv,

We at HuffRacing have not had any problems of any kind with our Castles. We have them in everything we race now. 4 pole 6 pole and my son has an 8 pole in his limited mono, and no problems at all.

But for true SAW passes I would consider going with the larger XLX2 controller. The X8 will max out at around 300 amps, and is happier in the 270-280 range.

I have not found the limit of the XLX2 yet, but have heard it to be about 500 amps.

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Originally Posted by eric113

Anymore on this? I’m thinking about getting X8 for my P mono.

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I texted with Gabe. He has been busy with other work and is trying to get back to these when time allows. The bottom plates are completed, he just needs one more op on the top cover to finish. Probably 2 more weeks.

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Originally Posted by vvviivvv

How are these fairing with multi pole motors? normally i only have lehner motors in all my fast boats and most the ESC's i do have don't like the extra poles, but thinking to go a different route with 2x Neu 1527, 2300kv & 6s in a new SAW hull I've just become the caretaker of... Would be spinning some 45mm + 3 blades

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Hello Liam,

I can tell you they are working well even with 10 pole motors at 30kRPM. That's equivalent to 300,000RPM for a 2-pole. As Don stated the X8S has a practical limit of 300A and has margin for peaks around 350A but it will start limiting at 300A for operational more than a 1 second. The XLX2 will go up to 500-550A. I found it started to clip at 550A. So for SAW passes on a 1527 go with the larger XLX2.

This is the XLX2 driving a 4140/5 10 pole LMT outrunner on 3S. I run this on 6S for Q mono. No problems.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/T-IusP6UB_k

-TylerAttachment 174566Attachment 174567

Hi all,

the XLX2 was the esc i was on about sorry for any confusion, also priced extremely well - take a AS26-XXX beautiful bit of kit but i can have 2x XLX2 for the price of one and they are readily available unlike the 6-8 months to get a hold of a AS26.

When i get through the backlog of current hulls that are mid build, i think ill be picking two up.

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Originally Posted by RaceMechaniX

I texted with Gabe. He has been busy with other work and is trying to get back to these when time allows. The bottom plates are completed, he just needs one more op on the top cover to finish. Probably 2 more weeks.

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Sounds good. Can’t wait for Gabe have them available, it will be other great option.

Hello guys,

First X8S coolers arrived from Gabe at Stump Fab. Instructions have been updated. Fit is good. These should be ready to release as soon as Gabe returns from SOWEGA.
I used some Kapton tape to hold my cooler down after a good compression with a clamp.

-Tyler


Attachment 174621
Attachment 174620

Are any XLX2 going to be available converted from say OSE? would like to order 2...