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OK, So you won't help me out so I've decided to go with a leopard 3650 motor, it puts out 2,290KV at 14.8 Volts, equals 33,892 RPM. Along with a 1.7x1.6 Prop it should propell me to 65+ MPH in a 25" boat weighing less than 14 ounces.So I guess I'm on my own! What do you think of the 150 AMP OSE ESC? Still no Answer, All you have to do is ask me again about my budget or my financial situation. I will stop using OSE as my primary supplier. Yours, truly, -MAD-HATTER.
The OSE Raider is a great esc, and will do the job you want it to here.
However if you get snarky just because you feel left out you will not likely get much help from people. It's your choice where you buy stuff, a lot of boaters here buy from OSE because they stock good products and have good service. Steven V is much appreciated in the FE community. Questions about your general budget are only to guage where you are at and to help with buying advice. The difference could be $100's or $1000's depending on a persons goals and aspirations. No one is trying to give you a hard time, so have a little grace.
I believe you will have a difficult time getting to 65 MPH with a submerged drive.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Hatter
Could you put a GPS in your boat?
I would love to be proven wrong. Its a great way to learn.
I remember the Pantera when it was actually being used. It is a 1980s design based on round cells and brushed power - which means pretty heavy and slow. To help with performance the bottom has large lifting strakes and like most all RTR boats of the period it has a solid prop shaft and a submerged drive - see the photo. The Pantera is made of ABS plastic, which after over 30 years is now weaker and brittle.
What all this means is that the little 24” mono will never reach 65 mph, I’m not even sure it would stay on the water at much over 40 mph. The weak ABS means that if it did reach the 60s then the inevitable crashes would destroy it. I strongly recommend that if 60 mph is your goal then you should sell the ancient ABS hull and purchase one which is more capable.
I apologize for my snark behavior, I will definitely change my attitude, as well as the boat's. I will change it over to surface drive. This will take a lot more work than I initially planned. I just opened my package from OSE, it's awesome, the parts are of top quality especially the water cooled motor mount. I live on a reservoir, it's Smith Mountain Lake VA. I have a Yamaha wave runner, a 18 foot bowrider, 2 pontoon Boats, A 16 foot sailboat,also a canoe I have to secure before before Florence gets here. I will probably lose internet & electricity before this is over. Thanks to all, Ken
I'm back, tied up most of the vessels, but the lift won't work. I changed the gear plate a few years back, & I know How heavy that motor is! I'll just have to leave it and hope & pray for the best. I've received the Leopard motor & cooling jacket. It's like awesome sauce!! It's got wires so big that it wants you plug into a wall socket!
Take care Ken. Pontoon boats rock to run RC off of.
Shawn
Fluid, I understand exactly what you are saying, this boat would try to hop, skip & jump out of the water, if I don't do something about the drive angle. It's going to take a lot of epoxy, resin,& fiberglass work to accomplish this OK? Thank You, Very much for for your input, it is greatly appreciated! Ken
Thanks a lot Shawn, Smith Mountain Lake is rather Large. Google it sometime,it has 500 miles of shoreline, covers 3 county's & has a lot of secluded coves to run r/c boats on. Unfortunately there are no r/c boat clubs on the lake. The lake is about 3 feet low because they've drained it. In anticipation of hurricane Florence. Anyhow pontoons are great platforms to run r/c boats from, and they don't sink!!! -Ken-
You will need major renovations on this boat to get it even close to your goal. I am old school and love the old school boats but as many have said its just easier to get a modern hull to run fast. I have an old Firehawk boat that is about the same size and specs as your MRP boat, (that was my first hobby grade boat back in the early 1990's) The one I have now I purchased with a 3650 brushless motor and ESC installed by the previous owner in the stock gear driven under water prop set up, I think it only ran about 25mph with the brushless setup on 2s (much faster than stock brushed for sure). You will need to strip that hull bare and reinforce with fiberglass and convert to strait shaft surface drive brushless with all new motor mount and all new hardware on the back of the boat. I took all the brushless stuff out of mine and did a vintage custom brushed build and I even reinforced the hull for that.
I understand, this emsjpay, I am no longer planning on this To go 60+ mph. However I am not sure how to set up this 4mm straight shaft. Should I run it straight through the the bottom of the transom or just below? I don't want to have to hang a strut off the back If I don't have to. I wish we'd all get over how fast it it will go and get on with the build. It maybe my opinion but I think it's doubtful that this hull only capable of 20mph.
Hatter, we had an old Parma Ski Tiger that had the solid shaft out the transom to run as surface drive. It worked well. So I would go shaft Center at 1/4-5-16” up from keel if possible.
Thanks srislash, I think I should have to go to approximately 1-2 inches off the transom before the prop? I know I won't be able to pull this off without having to spend a few $ on hardware. Where should I mount the single rudder? I'm thinking off to the starboard side of the vessel.Maybe along side the prop? Or just behind lt? I'm open to all suggestions. I've purchased lots of resin/hardener, CA glue, and JB weld. I also have fiberglass cloth and micro balloons on its way. I can't wait to get started!
The further off the transom the easier to tune for top straight speed. Closer to transom better for corners. This applies to rudder and prop location. But in reality that is fine tuning stuff and you aren’t going to be able to tune the prop angle. I recall the Parma being about an inch. But two would be fine and rudder offset to starboard beside prop and clear off it at full port turn.
Just mount the motor as low as possible inside hull. Ideally you want the prop straight out the back parallel with the keel. If you end up with abit of a negative(downward) you could run an ABC prop which has higher rake (15-17*).
Thanks a bunch, Srislash we are thinking along the same lines. I'm looking at the OSE-80052 rudder, what do you think? Do I need turn fins/trim tabs? There's not going a lot of space on this transom and I will be mostly making right hand turns isn't that the way most courses run? Thanks for the prop Info I'll look into it. -Ken-
Yeah I think that rudder should be good. It is a nice size.
Here is a pic of mine, a lot of changes done to it but I couldn’t keep an .098 flex cable in it.
Attachment 161628Attachment 161629Attachment 161630Attachment 161631
Srislash,I bought 36mL of permatex blue,I think I should return it, ($18.49) I really wanted Loctite 222 purple. I think I'll get on line. I'm not too anxious am I?
If using for keeping threads locked blue is fine.
Thanks,I've got it striped down to 13 ounces. Now it's time for it time for it to start gaining weight. I assembled the motor/water jacket, water cooled mount & coupler today, It looks awesome! I'll mount it as far forward as practical in order to reduce the drive angle. I'm considering the 30mm x50mm OSE trim tabs but I'm not sure if there will be enough room on the transom. I'll have to wait until the rest of it is done. I have a lot of glass work to do. About props, I Understand about diameter & pitch. I've even sent a few Props out to have them cupped (on full scale boats). I can basically estimate the top speed of a Cigarette, Donzi, Fountain etc by taking a good look at its props. You can stand back and estimate the size and weight of the boat but you can't guess the amount of horsepower until you take a good look at the props, (or take a look under the hood). Any one of these boats can beat the other providing it has the power to turn more pitch. I'm not quite sure what you're saying about rake? Please explain. THanks, -Ken-
Well easiest to explain take is to go to my favourite prop schoolers: http://www.mercuryracing.com/prop-sc...-3-blade-rake/
Thanks again srislash, I'll check it out. I've worked on many mercs. I've put a pair of 540 bulldogs in a 42 foot cigarette revolution run it, and prepped it for the Atlantic City boat show. We also had a Douglas Skater with 3 Bridgeport motors 2.4 liters hanging on the back, it was the marina owner's son's race boat. Well enough reminiscing for now. I'm building a model boat and studying about prop rake and surface drive. I'm beginning think it has something to do with lift.
Yup, low rake and a lot of pitch raises the tail but add high rake and you will lift the nose .
Thanks yet again Srislash, I have done some more measuring. This boat is 648mm (25.5 inches) long, not the 24 inches as is often stated in the old archives. It's transom is 5 7/8 inches (148mm) wide. I am considering the ABC-17-45 series clever 2 blade.Probably in a 1.6 inch diameter. I kind of wanted to use the 30mmx50mm trim tabs but I'm not sure if I will have enough room to turn the rudder which I think will hang 1.58 inches off the transom,the prop along side of it. I know these tabs would make it handle like a longer boat. This is a lot to ponder. I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get there. This is hanging a lot of hardware out back, but if that's what takes It to go fast and kick up a good rooster tail, well then that's I'll have to do. I have a lot of work to do (fiberglass). My budget is shot for a few days,but I'll be in contact. Thanks again, -Mad hatter-
I’ll try to dig around my gear and see what fits. You could always make some trim tabs. Something I’m going to try on next mono is a narrow tab which hangs further behind the boat.
Don't worry about it, I'll order the 30x50 tabs next week. If they don't fit I can modify them or save them for a future project. Namely my Dumas deep V 60. But they just might fit. Thanks again.
OSE is great! Ordered parts on Monday, received them on Wednesday. Looks like they'll they'll fit and give me a decent amount of rudder travel so long as I keep the prop at 1.6 inch diameter. Thanks for all of the input! -Ken-
Just saw your thread. Don't know how far along you are with your conversion, but one thing to keep in mind is the strength of the transom before you hang too much stuff off of it, (strut, rudder, trim tabs). As I remember a lot of plastic hulls didn't have much of a transom doubler in them. Cut a piece of 3/16 or 1/4 " plywood to fit as snug as you can and epoxy it to the inside of the transom. It will make it easier to mount stuff firmly and help strengthen the back of boat. You're going to need it as the plastic does not she well. I know, I've parked a few old ones.
Hey thanks dog, I've been thinking about that myself. I went to the garage 2 days ago and grabbed me a piece of 3/16 ply, thinking along the same lines. I plan on doing doing exactly what you're talking about! I want to cover it with OSE's Carbon fiber sticker. It will look cool and hide a multitude of sins. Besides it will give me some meat to bolt this stuff to. The screws are about 3/4 inch long and I'd hate to lose hardware over an unseen stick in the water or a blow over. I'd rather have the whole transom torn off than lose a few expensive parts. That's just the way I am. Thank you for your input. It is greatly appreciated! Like minded people think a like! Thanks again-Ken-