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Just found this (I'm a little slow). Looks GREAT. Heavy-duty metal mid-case; coreless/digital/titanium gear - water "resistant" - awesome specs, accessible price
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=ker-ft5515m
If you've used one or know someone who has, I'd like to hear your thoughts.
Thanks,
Tony
rcboatbuild@hotmail.com
I have one and works great in my big mono, not tested the waterproof feature but nice to know its there just in case and for the price I couldn't find anything near as high spec.
P.s they've also changed their brand name from hitec, I mean Fitec! to "Feetech" can't think why?!
Matt,
Thanks for responding. Looks like I'm going to use one on my next build :thumbup1:
great specs along with a great price on that bad boy!
http://www.hobbypartz.com/60gexidise.html
I have used these for steering on my outboards and they just keep working. Very noisy but that is a digital trait I guess. Metal gears and a coreless motor.
Mic
Mic,Quote:
Originally Posted by HTVboats
This was my go-to servo until they showed a high failure rate. Still have some in my boats but have a pile of broken ones. Even once got a DOA in an order. They're re-badged Tower-Pro servos whatever that means :noidea:
Yes those servos are a crappy copy of a good servo. If you want some good servos from hobbypartz, look at the Solar D770 series. I have a d771 In my Stampede 2wd, and Its op for the application. http://www.hobbypartz.com/33p-solarservo-d771.html
Recently bought several of these http://www.hobbypartz.com/33p-solarservo-d227.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by St3alth_Frenzy
So far they're working
Tony, I've been using the Solar D770 low profile in a few boats now. No problems, just noisy.
Thanks for the feedback. Haven't had any failures yet. For the price they are disposable. Have to try the Solar.
Mic
While we're on the subject of servos this could be a good place for me to learn more about them. What I seem to understand (leaving price out for the moment) is that three main criteria are given : torque, centering accuracy, and speed. I never really paid much attention to which servo I was using until I got into tunnels, where the servo had to crank the entire output of the power system side-to-side against the hull's natural desire to go straight. I went through servos at the rate contestants went through clean undies at a farting competition. I also found that the faster the servo was rated , the twitchier the boats handled, especially the small, light VS-1's. I even tried a servo slow-down-module to tame this twitchy-ness (never got it to work effectively- and my radio doesn't have that feature as some do). Tunnels taught me that torque is a must, and resistance to gear stripping was of primary importance since I tumbled my boats a lot and the leverage on the outdrive from a tumble wreaked havoc on the servo's gears. I really like slower servos in all my boats BUT FE must basically rely upon the general selection of servos serving (OK it's a pun) the car, airplane & heli market where speed seems to be all-important. I think so, anyway. As far as centering is concerned I'm not convinced that that's absolutely critical to be dead-nuts. Boats are negotiating an ever-changing surface and we're constantly correcting their path so highly accurate centering (or returning to dead center) may not be something to be all that concerned about (or pay extra for). Of course I'm willing to be schooled on that. In the mean time I'm always on the lookout for a decent servo that won't break the bank. I have a Fitec coming soon & I'll post my impressions.
I changed out a solar D770 with a Futaba S9551 ( also low profile and much more expensive!) , thinking I can get rid of the noise, guess again, same noise. I am using Tactic , BTW.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocstar22
Wonder if it has anything to do with the radio. There was another thread about twitching/gliching Hitec and I learned that the gain setting on the servo has to be compatible with the radio, wonder if it apllies here as well? :confused2:
Sorry: didn't mean to go off topic.
http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-646wp_servo.html
Was looking at Servo City and ran across this Hitec. Waterproof, metal gear and good torque. I also have most of my 30yrs in RC been running outboards. So performance and metal gears are a must. I usually go for 1/4 scale because the gears are just physically larger. FE motors don't transmit as much vibration with a single cylinder unbalanceable nitro motor. Geometry and not decreasing potential leverage by using outer arm holes helps. Rather reduce throw mechanically than with a radio.
Mic
Let me first start off by saying that my perspective is colored by the fact that I exist solely in the 4S realm in which the ESC's built-in BEC powers all my rigs. Given that most of the integrated BEC's only put out maybe 5V, the high voltage servo's wont perform at their advertised peak torque.
The Hitec illustrated above is rated at 6.0V and 7.4V which may work when using a dedicated power supply but won't for me when the built-in BEC powers the servo.
This is very true. That said in setting up my outboard tunnel boats for heat racing I am more and more eliminating BEC's and going completely to separate LiFe 6.6v to power the RX and steering. There is a difference in a 6-9 lb. P or Q tunnel above 50 mph. Loosing any heat that could be prevented by hardware is not acceptable. I loose enough just driving.Quote:
Originally Posted by properchopper
Mic
Well, I just ordered the Fitec- [Gee, that name somehow sounds vaguely familiar, as does the red swoop in the logo - where have I heard a similar name before, I forget :confused2:]
It's going in a customer build so I can't test it in the water but I'll sniff it out on the bench & give my impressions.
Attachment 97779 Attachment 97778 Attachment 97777
Fitec (er, FEETECH) came. First inspection - looks very nice. Hooked to a Tactic radio with four 1.2V AA batteries - No buzzing, sounds quiet and like a servo should. With tension on the gears (as in working against resistance - or a binding linkage) a slight whine barely audible. Nice assortment of accessories. Servo arms are Futaba splined.
I like the case design - the top part goes deep and is secured on top (as well as the four normal screws) which is good to keep the gears aligned.
The wires appear to be of nice strong gauge
Compared to the Traxxas (which to be fair I've had no problems with so far) :
Traxxas has a plastic splined output shaft
Traxxas comes with NO hardware whatsoever- must add a servo arm AND find a self-threading arm attaching screw to screw into blank plastic hole
Traxxas has lesser specs and costs +/- $8 more
Traxxas has a "bulge" in the case making it tricky to fit the popular quickchange laydown mount
Attachment 97781 Attachment 97780
I haven't investigated the "water resistant" claim and probably won't (kinda' like striking a match to see if it will light:blush:)
So far I'm liking it a bunch. Once installed in an upcoming build I'll report more.
After a few runs you will hear the buzing but thats not a problem.
I have one about a year now and works great.
Still centers like new.