does anyone know if this prop shaft upgrade ( seen here http://www.rcraceboat.com/ requires you to replace the stock stuffing tube or does it just slide right in the stock tube..thank you.
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does anyone know if this prop shaft upgrade ( seen here http://www.rcraceboat.com/ requires you to replace the stock stuffing tube or does it just slide right in the stock tube..thank you.
There is thread here. https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...608-flex-cable
The wire drive works just fine IF you use one of these couplers..Quote:
Originally Posted by heyjack8
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...EARCH=AQUB7907
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...EARCH=AQUB7913
I replaced the stock motor with a Leopard LC450-3200kv out of the box, ran all summer 2017 & 2018 with ZERO wire drive issues.
Over the winter I replaced the Leo motor with a CopterX motor found on the net. Also replaced those God awful Deans connectors with Amass XT60's.
Again ZERO wire drive issues. I did have to goto a 32mm prop to get on plane faster, same as it would be with stock motor & 30mm prop.
Instead of wasting $$ replacing the wire drive, spend your money on replacing that HORRIBLE factory ESC!! Put a 35A Seaking(V2) in it, check mine, look how much cleaner it looks under the hood.
You can set LiPo cell count(actual NOT auto), cutoff voltage, timing (CopterX likes 15-deg).
There's a lot of other very low cost or free 'n' easy tweaks & mods that can be done to these boats to yield really great performance.
I enjoy the heck outta mine. With some time & effort, you can make yours just as much fun.
Regards,
Hmmmmmmm....... Who else might be recommending that motor/battery?? :confused2:Quote:
Originally Posted by RCBoaterGuy
I'm using that same coupler reamed to fit 1/16". Works great!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Jet
I replied last night, but the post disappeared, so lets try this again.
Hmmmmmmm....... Why be like everybody else??
When I first got the boat, only small 3S packs I could find were in the 900~1000mAh range, those are good for what?? 4-mins, 5-if your lucky.
The popularity of drones has created a market for 3S packs in the 1300~1500mAh range & manufactures' have responded. I have 3x 1500mAh & 1x 1300mAh packs, yes they fit the MM, BUT, ALL four weigh more than the 2000mAh Duratrax packs - actual weights measured on a USPS certified postal scale.
The DT packs give over 10-mins runtime, most of it at WOT. They're lighter weight & thinner which lets me position them in the boat in way that makes it easier to balance it out.
Motors... when I first setup the boat I used a Leo LC450-3200, at first it was fast - bout the same as factory motor on 3S. But after getting used to it, it was no longer fast enough. Which means I would've got bored with the stock motor & went looking for an upgrade.
To upgrade from the Leo LC450-3200 went looking for the Leo LC450-3500 but couldn't find one. So ordered this one instead.. https://www.rcecho.com/RC-Smart-3550...ess-Motor.html - the CopterX motor is what I received. Never heard of "CopterX", had to Google it.
Managed to get one good run in on glassy water & the boat hauls banana's, so I'm happy.
All sarcasm aside, I would recommend replacing the AQ ESC with a 35A Seaking V2 unit. I made a small mount, epoxied it under the hood, ESC is Velcro'ed to it.
Nother thing I did was to get K&S thin wall square brass tubing, solder tubes into each end for the hose's to attach to. Pulls heat off the mount much better, the CX motor barely gets warm.
Regards,
I did a lot of research and settled on that motor for my 1:20 scale kits along with a 1800mah 2S pack. I've been using the cheap generic 30A ESC that's available everywhere for a few pennies with great success, even with no cooling (I've been using that ESC and its clones for a decade now :olleyes:). I do run on 2S with 30~32mm props to keep current draws in the "low" range. As I experiment more, I'm looking at running a 1.8 pitch ratio 32mm prop.
Why 1.8?? Seems to me that a X632 would be the next logical step.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Jet
I've been using Seaking 35A ESC's in my small boats for years, dam things are virtually bullet proof.
Saw an ad on RCG while back, and it was old, but never closed, so I took a pot shot & replied. Turns out it was MiniCat Racing USA & he had just one left NIB, I jumped on that thing so quick.
Props: the LC450-3200 on is nearly identical to the AQ motor on 3S.
I tired FRP 30 & 32mm, Octura red (31mm), AQ blue, also 31mm & the Octura purple props. The purple props were a disaster, no real noticeable difference between the red & blue props, 32mm was too much. In the end the FRP 30mm worked out best with that motor.
With the CopterX motor I started where I left off, 30mm. Noticeable lag before getting on plane. AQ blue prop helped but.. next was 32mm and that's the sweet spot. Have to contact Dasbota about doing a couple S&B 32mm metal props.
Couldn't help but notice the motor in your project boat.. and you were giving me guff :spy:
Regards,
Remember, I'm running on 2S so I think a bit more pitch won't hurt. I have a couple of X632s that I should no doubt try first. Remember too, I'm running this arrangement a really lightweight hydro, not a mono.Quote:
Originally Posted by RCBoaterGuy
I would use them too......... IF they would fit (room is an issue); I don't run any cooling (on 2S, heat has never been an issue); everywhere I look they are discontinued; AND I can get 5 of the generic 30A ESCs for the cost of 1 Seaking if it WERE available.Quote:
Originally Posted by RCBoaterGuy
:olleyes::tiphat:Quote:
Originally Posted by RCBoaterGuy
I am assuming that you are not racing, but it sounds like the packs we use in our mini mono race boats might be right up your street, lighter than that 3s 1300 Turnigy and only a few grams more than the Duratech 2s 2000mAh, but 3s 1900mAh from Redzone or 1800mAh from Tenshock.
Paul,Quote:
Originally Posted by NativePaul
The DuraTRAX (not DuraTech) 2S 2000mAh packs seen in post #3 above weigh 3.4ozs, yesterday I finally finished upgrading the rest of them to Amass XT-60H connectors.
The Nano-Tech 3S 1300mAh pack seen in post #5 above weighs 3.8ozs.
The ST-Arc 3S 1500mAh packs seen in post #5 above weigh 3.8~3.9ozs each.
All weights were obtained from a USPS postal scale.
Bottom line: I am getting far longer runtime (10-mins avg) from the DuraTRAX batteries that I could ever hope to get from either of the 3S packs with they're puny 1300~1500mAh capacities.
The lighter weight of the DuraTRAX (not DuraTech) 2S 2000mAh packs also made it much easier to setup a good balance point for the AQ Mini Mono boat. AND, since I have 10-packs that all weigh the same, that balance point will stay the same from pack-to-pack & run-to-run.
Hopefully that explains my logic for using them.
Regards,
It is probably not worth changing as you have 10 packs, but if you get 10mins on 2s DuraTRAX and you were to KV down or prop down to the same performance as you get with 2s, the race packs would give you 14 minutes with similar weight. Or near double the power for 7 mins if you don't change anything.
Today I was surfing EBay I saw a MM that has that upgrade applied.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Discontinue...oAAOSwyZhcmUGe - check the interior pix.Quote:
Originally Posted by heyjack8
Every MM that I've ever seen pix of that has that upgrade looks similar to that one. Some not so bad, but most that bad or worse.
What I find interesting is that Jeff is a member of this forum.. https://www.intlwaters.com/threads/wire-drives.49672/ - those guys swear by wire drives, so why is Jeff selling that kit??
The early MM's had a coupler with grub screws on each end, motor & wire drive and they were HORRIBLE - I think that's why that kit was developed. But now that we have the new school cinch type couplers mentioned in post #3 - there really isn't any need for it anymore.