SeaKing 180 v3 temps

Stock size prop, brass
Leopard 4082 1600Kv X2
SeaKing 180a v3
6s lipo
deans connector
Traxxas Spartan hull

Now that the boats listed on to the thread lol
Haven't actually thought to check it but the water here is about 65f
i have some tiny ir temp gun i got for free from a friend, works great but i doubt its super accurate lol
i use high Mah packs because you get better amp output and more weight to hold the boat down lol
after probably 20 minutes of constant ripping temps are

~110f motor
~120f batts
~140f esc
~240f cap pack

temps seem good but caps WAY to hot imo. they melted a bit of my pool noodle i glued to my lid lol
How to i get these temps down some?
Anyone else run it simler?
240f ok for caps?

Need Prop size an how long are you running? Also Deans are no good. Need better connectors. At least 5.5mm bullets.

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Originally Posted by photohoward1

Need Prop size an how long are you running? Also Deans are no good. Need better connectors. At least 5.5mm bullets.

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The deans don't get any warmer then the 10gage wire,
they were soldered on with extremely high silver content solder, with flux. very well done
I've never seen deans do poorly when installed correctly!

Would xt90 help keep the caps cooler?

The bullets between motor and esc actually get warmer then the deans between battery and esc.
(the preinstalled 6mm bullets on both esc and motor)


Prop size is Octura x640 Sharpened & Balanced (no longer sharp, or balanced lol)
i use 7400mah or 8000mah packs, puts runtime if I'm non-stop ripping at around 30minutes

Thankyou for the reply!

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Originally Posted by justafatman

puts runtime if I'm non-stop ripping at around 30minutes

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:scared: That is a long, long, long time to run an FE boat. Also a relatively tame prop for a Spartan on an upgraded 6S setup, which explains the low temps elsewhere. I would imagine typical 5-6minute run times would render your electronics, caps included, luke warm at best. I don't have the electrical knowledge to suggest what would help with lowering the cap temps at those longer run times.

New to all the boat stuff, whats FE?

Its the stock prop size just made out of brass,
so it doesn't destroy itself every 10 runs due to cavitation lol

I try to only run with friends so i only run when they do.
instead of me just hotlapping the pond hahahahahaha

bump

FE = Fast Electric

If you can shorten your battery wires significantly it may help the caps run cooler. I ended up replacing the factory caps on the SK180 battery leads with a 10,000 uF cap bank and they stay almost ambient now.

First start off by changing the Deans to EC5 or 5.5 bullet connectors or larger. Then start your run times to about 3.5 to 4 minutes monitoring the temps. If temps are good across the board then you can run a little longer while still monitoring the temps. Also lube the cable at least every two runs and or every run if you are going to try to run 30 minutes. Fix the prop. 30 minutes is just way to long. Hope this helps.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jamey

FE = Fast Electric

If you can shorten your battery wires significantly it may help the caps run cooler. I ended up replacing the factory caps on the SK180 battery leads with a 10,000 uF cap bank and they stay almost ambient now.

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Thank you for clarification on that. The stock wires are a bit long,
I just figured leaving them as is would be better then having a solder joint midway through.

Is there a write up on your cap upgrade?

Yes grab your popcorn, you can do a search and there are many write ups on cap banks.

You want the battery wires as short as possible while still being functional. The reason has little to do with resistance believe it or not so larger gauge is not necessarily a replacement for a shorter length.

I think you lose most people when you say your run for 20 min of non stop ripping. Assuming you are standing still and not traveling near the speed of light while running your boat it would be mathematically impossible for that amount of run time. Are you running a timer or is this 20-30 min time frame just a guess? Adding additional caps should help bring the temps down on them. There is a full thread dedicated to adding cap banks titled something like "capacitors, the preemptive answer" try out the search function .

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TheShaughnessy

I think you lose most people when you say your run for 20 min of non stop ripping. Assuming you are standing still and not traveling near the speed of light while running your boat it would be mathematically impossible for that amount of run time. Are you running a timer or is this 20-30 min time frame just a guess? Adding additional caps should help bring the temps down on them. There is a full thread dedicated to adding cap banks titled something like "capacitors, the preemptive answer" try out the search function .

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I would love to chase my boat while on a 1:1 boat that can keep up but normally I am just giving the thing a hot supper in the local pond hot lapping. lol

Thank you for pointing me into the direction of a solid thread to start on!