Seaking 130 HV

Some of you may be hesitant to buy the new SK 130hv, I felt at first it looked like more of an experiment by SK that wouldn't go anywhere, but it's definitely built with Seaking quality!
I haven't used it yet but these are my first impressions
Overall review:
Not a bad unit, designed like the sk180 with the two tube heatsink, and completely potted in a silicone/rubbery material. Unfortunately this material is really thin around the caps but that's not a big deal since getting the outer case of the caps wet shouldn't be a big deal.

Pros:
10AWG wires on the battery side.
Completely potted in silicone, don't think it's possible to damage this with water.
Really good heat sink (more on this later)
Tough plastic casing.
12S max voltage

Cons:
Cooling tube issue (more on this aswell)
12AWG motor wires
Thin potting material
Strange anti spark system.
Minimum 5S voltage (guess this doesn't matter since you can put 6S through the 180)

Comments:
The anti spark system composes of a pair of 6mm bullets with a jumper wire and resistor. So in order to plug in you unplug this connector, plug in negative, positive, then plug the connector back in. No pictures of this because I changed it to be the standard negative side wire and resistor. The resistor is big (looks like 3 or 4 watt) and 10 ohms.
There is an issue with the cooling inlets. The cooling inlets on the battery/capacitor side are resting on the capacitors, so you can't fit a tube over them. My fix for this was to cut the silicone between the caps and tubing, and get the correct size brass tubing to slide over the cooling inlets. I soldered this tubing on and covered the entire thing in silicone just in case the solder didn't seal the tubing on. I didn't think about taking pictures through this and now there's silicone covering the problem. When soldering the entire heatsink stayed completely cool, it's really good at dissipating heat and I had a hard time soldering it even with a 60 watt iron.
I can't think of any other fixes for the cooling issue but I hope mine was just a fluke and they don't all happen to be like this.
I'll review more when (and if) I get the chance to use this, it's going in Rooky's (username) boat, I might be able to sneak it out for a test drive before I send it

I've been using this esc with no issues on my rigger 6S and yes it''s necessary to make a mod with the water nippels.The resistor is fine 5 ohm 5 w so no sparks at all. Gil

Thanks for the reviews guys, always helps us all out!! Sounds like a decent unit, and of course on the higher voltage it can handle some larger lower kv motors too.:tiphat:

I wish there was some more information here guys. I have the Seaking 130A HV ESC and it seems to be working well with my 8S setup. The cooling inlets seem pretty easy to access on my ESC so I didn't have to make any modifications. The inlets are very easy to plug large diameter tubing into, so I'm wonder if maybe they've made a revision since your post...it has been 2 years. :)

Resurrecting an old thread here. I purchased the v3 version of this ESC and got around to hooking it up today. Things didn't go as smoothly as I hoped.

I have two 5s packs in series. I have a Tactic Rx and I use a dedicated Rx battery pack. I have a switch harness as well. So I hooked the battery into one end of the switch harness and the other end into the Battery port on the Rx. I then hooked the long Rx lead from the SK 130a HV to channel 3 on the Rx. I left the short Rx lead alone. I turned on the transmitter and then the receiver switch. I then connected the batteries to the SK. The motor began making a lot of beeps, but honestly I had a very difficult time hearing a pattern and nothing in the instruction pamphlet nor online seemed helpful. The motor never spun up but the rudder works fine.

What am I missing here? Can someone explain which Rx lead does what and which one goes where (in the instructions, the long lead looks to go to one of the channels in the Rx, but I don't see anything about the short lead. The instructions seem to be generic for their entire model lineup and the illustrations show a short lead with a switch on it (the HV does not have this)). Is the short lead just for programming? Or does the short lead go to the switch and then to the Rx battery (which would seem odd as the short lead of the ESC has a female plug (pins go into it) as does the switch harness).

I am also getting a spark when plugging in the positive lead. I have read several "here's how to hook it up" articles but they vary widely. I have connected the negative lead from the ESC to the negative lead of one of the batteries. The positive lead of this battery is then connected to the negative lead of the second battery. At this point, I turn on the Tx and then the Rx. When I connect the positive lead of the second battery to the positive lead of the ESC, I get the spark. Can someone please explain, step by step, the correct connection sequence?

I really appreciate your time in helping me get through this.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pennstater

Resurrecting an old thread here. I purchased the v3 version of this ESC and got around to hooking it up today. Things didn't go as smoothly as I hoped.

I have two 5s packs in series. I have a Tactic Rx and I use a dedicated Rx battery pack. I have a switch harness as well. So I hooked the battery into one end of the switch harness and the other end into the Battery port on the Rx. I then hooked the long Rx lead from the SK 130a HV to channel 3 on the Rx. I left the short Rx lead alone. I turned on the transmitter and then the receiver switch. I then connected the batteries to the SK. The motor began making a lot of beeps, but honestly I had a very difficult time hearing a pattern and nothing in the instruction pamphlet nor online seemed helpful. The motor never spun up but the rudder works fine.

What am I missing here? Can someone explain which Rx lead does what and which one goes where (in the instructions, the long lead looks to go to one of the channels in the Rx, but I don't see anything about the short lead. The instructions seem to be generic for their entire model lineup and the illustrations show a short lead with a switch on it (the HV does not have this)). Is the short lead just for programming? Or does the short lead go to the switch and then to the Rx battery (which would seem odd as the short lead of the ESC has a female plug (pins go into it) as does the switch harness).

I am also getting a spark when plugging in the positive lead. I have read several "here's how to hook it up" articles but they vary widely. I have connected the negative lead from the ESC to the negative lead of one of the batteries. The positive lead of this battery is then connected to the negative lead of the second battery. At this point, I turn on the Tx and then the Rx. When I connect the positive lead of the second battery to the positive lead of the ESC, I get the spark. Can someone please explain, step by step, the correct connection sequence?

I really appreciate your time in helping me get through this.

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pretty sure you should have plugged into channel 2 for the esc lead. that is usually throttle. anybody correct me if I'm wrong.

Old dead thread

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ray schrauwen

Old dead thread

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sorry, didnt see the date.