Noob = The only thing I know for sure is I know nothing.....

Okay, so I placed an order today for a Brand new UL-19. I'll be racing it mostly at a club/pond in Michigan. I know for a fact no one there runs one in the class. It will be 4s. I want to come up with a list of what I need to order and get on the boat (to maybe run a bit before the snow and ice show up... So, I'm looking for anything I can rob from your experience. Like I know I need to order a rear motor ring. I also need the lock ring so I don't lose the cable... What all else do I need to change? The HD flex cable and coupler? Any good tuning videos out there either General RC hydro or UL-19?

I would replace the flex cable right off the bat. Too many reports of the stock version failing very quickly.

Okay, does that mean I need to replace the couplings for sure also....?.. I was left a little confused by that thread to being new. LOL and easily distracted. :p

You don't have to change the collet if you use the same size flex cable, like this one from OSE. I don't own a UL-19, so I can't comment on the quality of the stock collet. The ones that came on the 29" V3 cats were junk. The ones that came on the Zelos and Voracity were much nicer.

Thanks, fweasel , there is a thread in here about the stock cable being weak and everyone upgrading to OSE's I'm guessing heavy duty and then that needing a coupling upgrade because though the numbers seem similar I think they are say they are not... LOL, trying to figure out all these new terms...

https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...ded-flex-shaft Yeah I think that is the one they mention needs the OSE coupler and the cable lock....

On 4S, you don't need the 3/16".187 HD cable. The .150 will be plenty capable.

Yeah... I'll probably go or think about heavier :tongue: It's capable of 6s... so when I'm not racing it.... I might want to go insane once in awhile.....

Go with the HD. It’s just went through all this. Both the OSE HD and the OSE .150” uprgrade shafts will require a new coupler. Don’t trust the stock coupler with the .150” flex shaft. The HD also seems smoother, has less drag since it doesn’t use a liner and is ready for 6s if you ever go there. Also get a shaft saver regardless of which shaft you go with.

Yes Hawser about the shaft saver. I under stood enough from what I read about props and cables sinking to the bottom of the pond. Thanks again for all your help!

Couple other things that might help

- get some extra nylon rudder breakaway screws. The shear off pretty easy.
- get a little bit longer antenna tube. Range seems really short for the stock radio.so the more you have out of the hull, the better.
- get the best batteries you can afford. Treat the recommended 5000mah, 50c as a minimum spec. Highest price, doesn’t mean the best choice either.
- Always match your paired batteries. Easiest if you don’t mix manufactures. I buy in pairs and always run the same pairs together. Battery knowledge is probably what is most important and a never ending quest for better.

- imo, the stock prop is too much load for 4s, probably perfect for 5s, and on 6s is spinning too fast with the 2000kv motor. I don’t do the saw run thing....that’s a different beast. But for making continuous laps at full throttle 4s, propping down really helps reduce the temps and increases run times. I don’t plan on racing and never have, so you will need some help from the guys that know for that.

- tape the canopy. It’s not water tight.
- place the batts as far to the rear as possible on 4s.

Hope at least one of my observations helps.

Not sure if you guys are on Facebook or not but I highly recommend joining the Pro Boat UL 19 Owners group. (https://www.facebook.com/groups/1819303194801755/). I am (was) completley new to boats and bought a UL 19. I read up on everything guys had done there and on the UL 19 threads here on OSE and got my boat running very fast on 6S in Arizona where it is fairly hot without any issue. I actually just posted this on the page to a noobie who just joined a day or two ago:

Most important things I probably did to my UL 19:
•Dual intake rudder with dual cooling lines
• Larger internal diameter cooling lines
• Upgraded prop
• 6.5mm Castle bullet connectors on batteries and motor-to-esc wires
• Shortened motor-to-esc wires to zero excess
• Drilled out every nipple and outlet on motor jacket, esc etc to give slightly better water flow

These are all outside of General upgrades I did like servo and turn fin.