Waterproofing the Receiver (Rx)

I've found several threads related to waterproof, or waterproofing, ESCs & servos...but none about waterproof/waterproofing receivers. In my case, I am just getting into FE, starting with a ProBoat SonicWake, and I'm planning on replacing the Rx with a Futaba (while I used to run Spektrum for my helicopters, when it comes to surface, Futaba & Sanwa/Airtronics are considerably better). Unfortunately, from what I've been able to tell, Futaba doesn't currently offer (at least in the U.S.) any waterproof-specific receivers. So, that leaves using a standard surface-specific Rx, or a dual-purpose (ie. air Rx that's also surface-compatible) Rx, and waterproofing it. I can only think of three ways of waterproofing an Rx - planning the Rx in a waterproof receiver box (commonly done by Traxxas), converting the Rx case in Flex Seal, and spraying the Rx board with a waterproofing spray. Looking at options 2 & 3.....

The quick/easy (and not necessarily better) way is to cover the Rx casing with Flex Seal, or something similar. While this does create a VERY strong waterproofing seal on the Rx casing, it doesn't completely seal the board inside (ie. is more "water-resistant" than it is "waterproof"), plus it can create excess heat inside the casing.

The final way (preferential over the Flex Seal method) is to remove the board from the casing, waterproof it using a spray, and then reseal it inside the casing. This method would completely seal the board. The most common brands are Corrosion X HD, Turbo-coat, & NeverWet, although there are several other brands. Does anyone have any first-have experience with waterproofing their Rx (or other electronics), and how well (in the long-run) did it go? Are any brands (the ones listed above, or others) known to TRULY be better in waterproofing, AND to last a lengthy time?

UPDATE:. Having contacted Futaba, I just received a reply. According to the email, they don't carry any waterproof receivers in the U.S. (the email appears to have been carefully worded to specify "in the USA", which gives the perception that they 'might' have waterproof receivers for other markets)...but, for boats, they do recommend the R304SB (which is exactly what I was already considering). In regards to this Rx, their exact response was, "For model boats we highly recommend the R304SB as it can holder a stronger link around the water line." So, now it's just a matter of determining the best waterproofing spray to use, or going with a waterproof receiver box (ie. option #1), which Futaba also suggested in their email.


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I disassemble the receiver, pop off the antennas, and coat both sides of the circuit board with 5min epoxy. I mask off the connecting pins, which gives me something to hold on to the receiver with. Be careful around the antenna connectors and the link button. I originally masked off the link button, but the epoxy still leached under and gummed it up. Now I just epoxy around the switch, leaving a good 2-3mm space around it.

Attachment 168580

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Originally Posted by fweasel

I disassemble the receiver, pop off the antennas, and coat both sides of the circuit board with 5min epoxy. I mask off the connecting pins, which gives me something to hold on to the receiver with. Be careful around the antenna connectors and the link button. I originally masked off the link button, but the epoxy still leached under and gummed it up. Now I just epoxy around the switch, leaving a good 2-3mm space around it.

Attachment 168580

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That's another...and great...idea. Thank you. Could you post a close-up photo. Both sides would be even better.

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I like to use a nice thick electronics grade silicone sealant like Servisol, as it won't flow into the connectors and switch while it sets, I put a dab of silicone grease on top of the switch, then just cover it all bar the pins and the top of the switch with the sealant then put it back in the case to set.

For space or weight critical applications, I have been know to bind it, stick the pins into a block of blu-tac and 30min epoxy the whole thing up. That gives a fairly consistent hard coating to protect it in stead of the case.

I used to get short 10cm servo extensions, plug them in, bind the RX, heat shrink the RX with shrink that is longer than the RX, and plug the ends of the shrink tube up with Servisol electronics grade silicone sealant.

Unlike corrosionX or a silicone conformal coating I am happy running these methods under water, but all methods have a disadvantage; Using silicone in a case you cant replace an aerial, so if it gets damaged it is more work to fix it rather than replacing it. Using epoxy you could probably still remove an aerial with pliers and replace it, but it is forever more linked to that TX so if you upgrade your TX you need a new RX. Using extensions is big, heavy and expensive, but can be cut off easily without any tell tale signs should you need access/warranty.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by fweasel

I disassemble the receiver, pop off the antennas, and coat both sides of the circuit board with 5min epoxy. I mask off the connecting pins, which gives me something to hold on to the receiver with. Be careful around the antenna connectors and the link button. I originally masked off the link button, but the epoxy still leached under and gummed it up. Now I just epoxy around the switch, leaving a good 2-3mm space around it.

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Originally Posted by NativePaul

I like to use a nice thick electronics grade silicone sealant like Servisol, as it won't flow into the connectors and switch while it sets, I put a dab of silicone grease on top of the switch, then just cover it all bar the pins and the top of the switch with the sealant then put it back in the case to set.

I used to get short 10cm servo extensions, plug them in...all methods have a disadvantage; Using silicone in a case you cant replace an aerial, so if it gets damaged it is more work to fix it rather than replacing it. Using epoxy you could probably still remove an aerial with pliers and replace it, but it is forever more linked to that TX so if you upgrade your TX you need a new RX. Using extensions is big, heavy and expensive, but can be cut off easily without any tell tale signs should you need access/warranty.

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Between the two of you, you've given me an excellent idea.

First, get short servo extensions...the shorter, the better, but not TOO short...approx 5-7cm (if I can find) should be perfect. 2 would be enough, but 4 is best (just in case I ever wanted to add anything, like LEDs...not sure why, just "just in case"). Next, a dab of silicone grease over the switch, and around the antenna connection. Third, apply thin layer of epoxy on both sides of board, and around the servo extensions plugged into the board (effectively sealing the extensions). Once epoxy dries, taking the top half of the case, thread antenna back through hole, and extensions through their opening, and reattach bottom half of case to top half.

This should, essentially, create a Futaba equivalent of the Spektrum Rx already installed. The antenna would still be replaceable, if it ever needed to be; the bind button would still be usable (if it ever needed to be re-bound, or bound to a different Tx), and the board (incl the 4ch connectors) would be completely sealed. This seems to be a better idea than the 'alternate' (ie. installing a Traxxas waterproof receiver box inside the hull), especially considering the Traxxas box would add a lot more weight than the epoxy...plus, the Traxxas box isn't truly 100% waterproof, as it has a small opening where the connector & anywhere wires run through.

Please, let me know what you think. I've got a few new R304SB receivers just waiting to be used.

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Every brand must have a Marine receiver like Spektrum.

https://www.spektrumrc.com/Surface/marineReceivers.aspx

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Originally Posted by Alfa Spirit

Every brand must have a Marine receiver like Spektrum.

https://www.spektrumrc.com/Surface/marineReceivers.aspx

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Just curious, but, where's is it written that every Tx/Rx manufacturer "must have a marine receiver like Spektrum"? No such 'rule'. Thankfully, there are ways of making receivers waterproof (and, thanks to other individuals, I now have an excellent idea on just how to do it). There's probably a way to waterproof almost any electronics. I even had a guy in Ireland waterproof two CGO3+ cameras for my Yuneec Typhoon H (which I'm in the process of getting ready to sell).

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I am finishing my first FE boat (scratch built) and I am not assembling the components. I had not read this thread until today, but I originally intended to use a FlySky GR3E receiver, which is supposed to be waterproof, but, as it turns out, it is not compatible with the FS-GT5 radio I plan to use for this boat, so it will not bind. So, I took the stock FS-BS6 receiver that came with the radio and covered everything but the pins with MG Chemicals Silicone Modified Conformal Coating. The receiver is actually 2 boards, so I tried to get some of is inside (between the 2 boards) as best as I can. I will probably will it with Corrosion X later on for good measure.

But I wanted some opinions from you more experienced guys, you think this will be enough? Should I do the Corrosion X in addition? Or should I epoxy over it?

If you can't get the conformal coating in between the two boards, Yes, I would just spray some Corrosion X in there. It's thin enough for sure and it better protection than nothing.