Attachment 177959
I've yet to assemble these. So I'd like to know what is the strongest, preferred method or procedure? Soldering? Silver, silver acid core? Loctite, 638, 648, or JB Weld (steel)? I'd really appreciate some feed back. Thank you!
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Attachment 177959
I've yet to assemble these. So I'd like to know what is the strongest, preferred method or procedure? Soldering? Silver, silver acid core? Loctite, 638, 648, or JB Weld (steel)? I'd really appreciate some feed back. Thank you!
buddy of mine breaks several piano wire ones and he uses the retaining compound. Personally I'd use JB weld cause its the fastest and easiest. But I have no idea whats better.
648 for flexies and 603 for wires.
I have broke plenty of them, until I bought Wholt RC cables / wire drive.
He uses 55% Silver Brazing wire
I use loctite 648. Clean both surfaces with acetone and wipe dry. Dry fit first to ensure the cable doesn't need sanding to fit properly. I mark full depth on the cable with some masking tape so I know when it's all the way to the bottom of the propshaft when assembled. I squirt a liberal amount of 648 into the propshaft, and draw 4 lateral lines of it down the length of the cable. Insert while twisting to full depth and then let it cure vertically. Some of them lock up tight in 5 seconds, some need 5minutes, depends on how snug the fit is.
As for it's strength, I've never had a retaining compound joint fail on me. A gas friend of mine uses it to glue his drive dogs on with NO grub screws!
Thank you!:tiphat:Quote:
Originally Posted by fweasel
Never tried this. How do you get .187" flex cable into 3/16" shaft?
the retaining compound method is for a stubshaft with an internal bore that matches the OD of your flex cable. It does not work for bonding cables to solid prop shafts.Quote:
Originally Posted by zooma
You don't, .187" is 3/16", so there is no getting one into the other.
There are 2 ways to get a .187 flex with a 3/16 shaft.
First is to cut off the outer layer of flexshaft measure the smaller diameter and drill the stub for that size, you can then insert some of the flex into the stub which gets a decent surface area on that portion for silver soldering/braizing and accept that you only get a weaker butt joint on the outer layer that is flush with the stub, as the butt joint section has a low surface area bonding it is not an option so you also lose the spring temper in the flex near the stub.
Second is to use a 1/4" to 3/16" step down shaft, which allows you to get the full 3/16" flex into the 1/4" end of the stub giving a bigger surface area for a stronger joint and allowing you to bond it to avoid losing temper if you choose to, yet still run 3/16" bore props. whether you prefer to solder/braize or bond this is a stronger way to do it, but this method however is a little more expensive, a little heavier, and worst the struts/stingers are bigger in diameter, which depending on your boat/setup will often have a little more drag.
Or maybe you dont need a flexishaft at all, if you only need a gentle bend there are always wire drives, smaller diameter for the strength, lighter weight, lower inertia, more efficient, less drag.
These are MBP drives, and the shaft is oversized at 6mm, then reduces down to .187".No need for modification, the flex slides right in.Quote:
Originally Posted by zooma
Big thanx to all who responded! I can always count on my O.S.E. family to steer me in the right direction. Looks like I'll go with the retaining compound. Should have known, I've had good experience with the stuff. Here's a peak at what it's going in, my bad girl, "XPLODER".Attachment 177980Attachment 177979
Finally finished the paint!
I see you decided to tone down the paint scheme on this build. Your restraint is admirable. Looks awesome.
Haha, ya the ol 200+ hour tone down. Thanx bud, I do appreciate it. I gave her everything I had. I'll be starting a build/ paint thread hopefully soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by fweasel