Yep correct
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Yep correct
In fact you got me curious, so here is the real life test.
I like the tygon tubing for cooling, it's tough, larger inner diameter, and as you can see, it goes even past 90 deg and is still open. (I guess your interest comes from sqeezing it in a narrow hull?)
http://users.tpg.com.au/gmustang/extern/bend1.jpg http://users.tpg.com.au/gmustang/extern/bend2.jpg
I've heard some complaints about the lvc? I don't like to turn it off because I don't have a timer. However I do plan on getting a flysky gt3b, does that have a timer on it???
Never had any problems with LVC, between the seaking and turnigy this must be the most used boat esc (at least in this Amp range). There's a reason for it's success.
:focus:
No mention of a timer in the gt3b manual, which I just checked for you :Shame_on_You:
I'm using a HK-310 radio, timer can be coupled to trigger, I like it and cheap. Has backlight now and a 'blingy' steering wheel.
All for under $50
The Tygon looks like it's worth a try. Usually when I encounter close quarters I'll do the 90 degree mod but it's a pain to get the straight barbs out, at least when I first started to do it. Here's another option : Autobahn88 tubing :
Attachment 93824
These ESC's are notorious for premature LVC cutoff. This is an issue frequently discussed here. Apparently the circuit monitors fairly instantaneous voltage downspikes (which occur frequently) as opposed to average voltage. With premium batteries this is less of an issue, but most everybody I know in racing circles disarms the LVC and has test/tuned to run a 6-lap race without batteries getting into the danger zone. I have been using a GT3B for almost two years and really like it 'tho it has no timer. Consequently, during testing I use my trusty PorkMaster 2000 run timer :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tvQbEnwjNSU
The better batteries (read : more expensive:sad:) will hold their voltage under load better than sport packs like GensAce. I had those exact GensAces in a boat I was testing on spec power and while I was walking back to my pit table there were two LOUD POPS from inside the boat. Both packs (and they weren't run very hard) burst the hard pack and split open. My battery of choice, now that I've discovered them, is Dinogy. (b-back in a few hours if more conversation needed:Peace_Sign:)
But racing boats, ur wide open more often than not, correct? I would just be bashing them in a way, with short burst runs!
Would you mind pointing me to some of these frequently discussed issues proper? First time I hear this. unless there are inferior batteries or something into play.
I've had premature LVC, yes. But this was due to too big a prop, running to deep, high I.R. batteries or a combination of those.
Could have blamed it on the ESC, but really, that's a setup issue.
EDIT: Also make sure you set the manual cell count, as recommended in the manual.
There are dozens of threads in the last year or so pointing out the flawed performance of the T-180 (and its varients) LVC
Here's a couple (there many more, take my word for it - or start a new thread and watch the response:cool2:)
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...vc+seaking+180
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...voltage+cutoff
To get around the problem you can buy outboard add-on LVC's for not much $$ or know your MAH consumption and time your runs.
I've been looking for an add on lvc, I can't seem to find them? Do any websites carry them?
You may of heard of this site :tiphat:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...hld-32&cat=136
See I thought it would be more of a battery accesory!!! Lol
Another way of dealing with the situation : (I'll use round numbers to make the math easy to understand)
Fully charge your packs
Run WFO for exactly one minute, bring boat in
Charge packs to full, note how many mah it took - your charger should show this number
If (for example) you used 1000mah, you use 1000mah/minute.
If you want to use 50% of your 5000 mah battery (a safe number), run a 5000 mah pack for 2 1/2 minutes [ 2 1/2 X 1000 = 2500mah] using your watch (or Porkmaster 20000-like device)
Don't get any easier than this :thumbup1:
The first link is not about the 180A , and in both threads there is the same individual screaming that this is a 'common' problem.
Maybe it is and you could be right, but I'm not convinced yet.
I did a search for more threads on the subject but thusfar inconclusive.
Having said that, If you search for the in-build BEC having problems in this ESC, you will find an ocean of 'common issues'.
When I bought my ESC, I ordered an external BEC as well...just in case.
Guess what, I'm using it...but in one of my planes because the 180 never needed it, works flawless and yes, I am running 6s.
Fact is however, this ESC has evolved a bit over time, and the BEC in this example has been improved.
Could be done on the LVC as well?
Could be a problem on older ESC's, or I am extremely lucky (for a change :smile: )
Sorry for going off-topic
Whatever works you, go for it.
@Yiper1
did you restrict the water passage through central point the original journals ?.. or is the flow to new internal pathway a 'bypassed' affair ?
W
I restricted it, but not fully, I glued a "restricting collar" in both orig channels.
This is what you meant right?
http://users.tpg.com.au/gmustang/extern/fp.jpg
maybe, difficult to show in 2D.
try this ...
Attachment 93865
Yep like that. Did you do any pro/post temp measurements ? if so did it make a difference?
I noticed that there are FET-banks on the bottom side of the circuit board as well, not cooled as well I would guess. But maybe these are for the reverse.
Anyway, never heard of over-cooling damage, at least not in these applications
Hi
Is this upgrade necessary?
Do someone have some measurement before and after the upgrade?
Hard to say, Short answer: No.
Long answer: It depends, I could imagine a setup 'on the edge' where it could make the difference between survival or not.
But IMHO you should solve that problem differently, lighter prop or so. If you 'need' this mod I think you need to think about a different set-up.
Not yet, but I don't think this will make it run hotter :smile:
But IMHO you should solve that problem differently, lighter prop or so. If you 'need' this mod I think you need to think about a different set-up.
Yes,yes, yes. While it seems (my opinion only, I'm no thermodynamic engineer) that most ESC cooling designs are not close to optimal and the
"T-180 cooling mod" is a relatively easy and obvious improvement, these upgrades and other methods may only provide marginal benefits. The at-risk components like FETs, stators and rotors are (likely) minimally affected by current cooling designs. While having some cooling is preferable to having none, pumping up the setup to gofaster and depending on cooling to stay in the safe zone is not good thinking.
While not a controlled experiment, this happened last year : Stephen and I have the EXACT same P-Mono with the exception of my T-180 having the T-180 cooling mod. We raced all year and had no problems with ESC heat. The last race of the season the outside air temps climbed way up. On the last lap of a six-lap heat BOTH of our T-180's thermaled. We propped down one notch and they still thermaled, only a little later in the race. To reiterate : the best way to prevent excess component heat is to adjust your setup accordingly.:smile:
Hi T, listen everyone I am the Stephen Tony is talking about in his last post, what he has just said about our t 180's is correct, we have raced, tested and just messed around together at the lake since my p mono was built, by Tony, they are exactly the same apart from the esc mod, both have never had any trouble with heat. Motor, motor/esc connections, esc, caps and cells have always ran faultless always well within the safer temp range. They are both pretty quick and reliable.
But as far as the esc having pre lvc problem I really do agree with tony, that they do have a problem, I also disable lvc and test so I can run 6-7 laps safely, another thing I do is disable the bec and run a separate rx pack, doing this helps take some strain off the esc as well as some heat, in my eyes every little helps.
Does the Tygon tubing give enough flexibility?
As to water cooling the t180. I personally use these esc's often, I have admittedly overheated them. But that was the setups fault and not fault of the esc. Heat is generated from inefficiencies, if its running so hot that you need extra cooling something else should be tried.
As to the lvc. I've also experienced the lvc kicking in, when I thought it shouldn't. My personal experience really made me scratch my head. Because I've used this setup before and knew it was a good one. After "warming up" at home I figured it out. My batteries were in my truck bed for a few hours. I was running late fall, the outside temps in the 40-50 range or there abouts. So my packs were cold enough not to perform well. The next time I went out, I left them on my front seat and they worked great.