First build-54" ebay hull

Hi folks,
I'm brand new to this and may have jumped into the deep end of the pool too quickly.

I saw this hull on ebay and made an offer.

I'd like to do twin brushless. Does anyone see a reason I couldn't/shouldn't?

Will I be able to use stinger style struts?

I apologize for my ignorance and appreciate all your help.

I searched for a step by step build thread without much luck. If anyone has a suggestion I'd love to see a thread like that.

Thanks,
Dan

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Hello Dan

There is no reason you cannot build this boat into a twin brushless cat, I would however read through all the twin build threads and take advice from the more experienced guy.

Due to the size of the boat I would recommend 56mm SSS OR Leopard motors on 10 to 12s with appropriate KV and props, I’m sure you’ll get good advice on KV and props from others.

You can use stingers or struts it’s up to you just make sure you run 1/4 flexi to cope with the stresses of the motors you’ll need.

make sure you reinforce the transom and bottom of the hull with carbon fibre first, again plenty of threads on that if you search around.


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i love that hull... i was about 5 min away from getting it to do my weedeater boat when i found my Dumas hull for cheaper....

He'll take 176 with free shipping.

Hey folks,
In my scale RC crawler I went against conventional wisdom and used a sensorless brushless from Tenshock. I love it. I think it was the most bang for the buck. Other crawler guys hate on it but I don't care. I just saw they make boat motors.

Any thoughts on that?

Also...Any thoughts on why I should avoid Hobbywing ESC's?

I like what I like and since Caste creations doesn't make a water cooled esc I'm leaning toward what I know.

I'm funded but I'd like to avoid buying the wrong things.


This is the motor I'm considering:
http://www.tenshock.com/vz-2250-brushless-motor.html

Thoughts?

How rigid is this hull? If it were me, I’d reinforce the whole thing in carbon-kevlar. Several reasons:
1) this will make it more rigid and stronger
(don’t need to worry about weight, actually weight will be good for this guy)
2) it will ensure that when you join the halves, that the bottom remains true and square
3) it will give it a sexy yet functional look.

Also want extra reinforcement along the seams.

Struts or stingers... struts=adjustable (and if you don’t know where the hull wants the prop, this is crucial to successful performance), stingers=sexy, but limited.

Twins? Keep in mind twins are not just double trouble... trouble squared.
Double the expense, and the two drive trains need to be as identical as possible, which can be extremely frustrating even for an experienced builder.

I do have a pair of motor/esc with counter rotating props that would work on this, I can share details if you are interested.

Big job here... lots of fun!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DanInWV

Hey folks,
In my scale RC crawler I went against conventional wisdom and used a sensorless brushless from Tenshock. I love it. I think it was the most bang for the buck. Other crawler guys hate on it but I don't care. I just saw they make boat motors.

Any thoughts on that?

Also...Any thoughts on why I should avoid Hobbywing ESC's?

I like what I like and since Caste creations doesn't make a water cooled esc I'm leaning toward what I know.

I'm funded but I'd like to avoid buying the wrong things.


This is the motor I'm considering:
http://www.tenshock.com/vz-2250-brushless-motor.html

Thoughts?

---

Tenshock 2250 motors are way to small you want a motor double the size.

Leopard 5698 with at least swordfish 300 x controller, you could look at slightly smaller TP4070 with the same controller but I would stick with the larger motor.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by StevenBryant

Tenshock 2250 motors are way to small you want a motor double the size.

Leopard 5698 with at least swordfish 300 x controller, you could look at slightly smaller TP4070 with the same controller but I would stick with the larger motor.


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Thanks for the info. I'll look into those motors. Props?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DanInWV

Thanks for the info. I'll look into those motors. Props?

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You need to decide on the cell count and KV first, the higher the cell count the lower the KV on the motor, once you have that sorted then you need to decide on speed at which time we can sort out the props.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jesse J

How rigid is this hull? If it were me, I’d reinforce the whole thing in carbon-kevlar. Several reasons:
1) this will make it more rigid and stronger
(don’t need to worry about weight, actually weight will be good for this guy)
2) it will ensure that when you join the halves, that the bottom remains true and square
3) it will give it a sexy yet functional look.

Also want extra reinforcement along the seams.

Struts or stingers... struts=adjustable (and if you don’t know where the hull wants the prop, this is crucial to successful performance), stingers=sexy, but limited.

Twins? Keep in mind twins are not just double trouble... trouble squared.
Double the expense, and the two drive trains need to be as identical as possible, which can be extremely frustrating even for an experienced builder.

I do have a pair of motor/esc with counter rotating props that would work on this, I can share details if you are interested.

Big job here... lots of fun!!

---

1)I'm considering 1" right angle carbon prepreg on the inside of the hull along the full length of the tunnel. The interior top of tunnel in cf cloth. Interior of sponson tips in cf. Also fab ribs(is that the right term?) from prepreg to be placed from the inside of the tunnel to the sponson interior wall. Then I was going to use cf tape to join the halves. I was also thinking of doing the top deck and sponsons in CF to the waterline.

I'm concerned that is overkill. It's the culmination of years of building white water kayaks and acoustic guitars. It makes sense to me but I'd appreciate the input.


I'm committed emotionally to twins.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by StevenBryant

You need to decide on the cell count and KV first, the higher the cell count the lower the KV on the motor, once you have that sorted then you need to decide on speed at which time we can sort out the props.


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It was suggested that I go 10-12s. The difference in battery and charger cost at that voltage is nominal so I'm inclined to go all in at 12s.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DanInWV

He'll take 176 with free shipping.

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good to know, i picked up a 45" Dumas DV60cf for $80 locally...LOL couldnt really pass that up... was pretty rough, but a bit of sanding and some primer cleaned it right up... https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...2&d=1546299761

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DanInWV

It was suggested that I go 10-12s. The difference in battery and charger cost at that voltage is nominal so I'm inclined to go all in at 12s.

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You will see more torque and runtime with 12s. It is a good choice. Look up Peters Endurance boat for a good read. It is recent in builds section.
Props will depend on expectations but 50-55mm should be good on this hull
Motors in the 600-700kv range.
That hull would look good with the scoops in the back and an open cockpit layout similar to a Traxxas M41.

Shawn
PS: any speed expected?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by srislash

You will see more torque and runtime with 12s. It is a good choice. Look up Peters Endurance boat for a good read. It is recent in builds section.
Props will depend on expectations but 50-55mm should be good on this hull
Motors in the 600-700kv range.
That hull would look good with the scoops in the back and an open cockpit layout similar to a Traxxas M41.

Shawn
PS: any speed expected?

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I mean.....It's a first go at brushless RC boats. I'd love to go fast. I think that I may have gone with the wrong layup on a hull this size to get real speed though. We'll see. I'm going to keep at it until I think I've gotten all the speed there is and then build another. That's how this goes, right?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by srislash

You will see more torque and runtime with 12s. It is a good choice. Look up Peters Endurance boat for a good read. It is recent in builds section.
Props will depend on expectations but 50-55mm should be good on this hull
Motors in the 600-700kv range.
That hull would look good with the scoops in the back and an open cockpit layout similar to a Traxxas M41.

Shawn
PS: any speed expected?

---

Also. I was thinking the same thing with the cosmetics. I'll be pursuing an open cockpit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DanInWV

I mean.....It's a first go at brushless RC boats. I'd love to go fast. I think that I may have gone with the wrong layup on a hull this size to get real speed though. We'll see. I'm going to keep at it until I think I've gotten all the speed there is and then build another. That's how this goes, right?

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yup pretty much, just have a realistic goal of 50-60mph and then tweak it up to 70 or so. 50-60 should have decent runtime and 70+ is really quite fast depending on how big of a run area you have. And really tough to do if tough water. Actually 50 is real decent too https://youtu.be/K0opr_YDtI0

OK folks,
Hull and CF cloth is on its way.

If you were ordering hardware to outfit this and you wanted to buy it a few pieces at a time where would you start?

Is there a prevailing knowledge on build progression start to end?

Is there a good twin Stinger drive build thread to follow that details start to finish? At this point I wouldn't know a good build thread from a bad one.

Thanks for your suggestions and knowledge.

Dan

Holy Cow! It arrived and its huge.

Prepping to inlay today.

Is there anything that I should be aware of in hull production. Like is there something I need to quality check? Specific points?

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Shine a light through the hull to check for thin spots. Always a good idea to run spare CF over the seams. Is this hull joined? Hull and deck?

The hull is not joined. No thin spots but thanks for the method! I wouldn’t have know how to check otherwise. Do you think 2 layers of 2x2 3k twill is sufficient?

Also I’ve been trying to determine a method to tape the seem internally and coming up blank. Everything I envision leaves me with a messy finish . Any guidance on doing that specifically ?

How thick is the hull? Depending on your expectations you may not need anything but to join the hull, mind you there is nothing like a clean CF interior to work with.
Now I’ve never joined a hull but I would think if you lined the half’s and used masking tape on the outside to keep the pieces in place while you join from the inside it should leave minimal work on the outside to deal with.