2nd castle 120 hydra burnt

here is the scoop i have put together a 32"godspeed catamaran with a mamba 2200kv motor a castle hydra 120, a castle bec @6v and i am running it on 4s lipo 4000mah 40c w/80c burst ....but i can only drive it 5-7 minutes and the esc melts the caps right off .... castle said it was that i was not using a bec the first time so they replaced it , then i put the new one in w/ a bec set @ 6v and nothing different ...can someone give me some pointers here i am just running into a brick wall right now .... thanks

Did you ever stop and see how hot things were getting ?
A 4000 mah is not very big and to run 5-7 minutes

5-7 mins is a long run time. I get about 4-4.5 out of my rigger using 5000's.
What do you have the LVC at?
Also i have learned that it is better to hold it wide open most of the time rather than on and off the throttle. Im not saying that your not, i'm just saying what i have learned.
Their are allot of guys on this site that have a vast amount of knolage, i,m sure some will chine in and offer some other info. I have learned allot by just reading everyone elses problems... i mean challeng's.

Steve.

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Originally Posted by mustangboy_347

here is the scoop i have put together a 32"godspeed catamaran with a mamba 2200kv motor a castle hydra 120, a castle bec @6v and i am running it on 4s lipo 4000mah 40c w/80c burst ....but i can only drive it 5-7 minutes and the esc melts the caps right off .... castle said it was that i was not using a bec the first time so they replaced it , then i put the new one in w/ a bec set @ 6v and nothing different ...can someone give me some pointers here i am just running into a brick wall right now .... thanks

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the 2200kv motor is hot for a castle 120.... I use the 1515 1.5y... (1500kv) with my caslte 120 in a mean machine.... its on the edge of being to much... I usually run on 6s but with a small x440 prop.... what prop are you using? the castle is a little small for that motor....

i have data logged that motor drawing 204 amps to get up on plain , with a 45 mm prop !!! 120 amp is not enough to cover your a$$ ...

i really never stopped to look at temps just did a couple really nice passes in nabout a 2 acre pond and man it was over in seconds ,i called castle and they said that the esc should hold that motor selection pretty good , dont really know what size prop i got ,i got it off my buddy ....do you think that the castle 240 hydra hv would do the trick for me .....thanks guys for the input also

i will not use hydras cause so many have failed , i would go for a 180 seaking or 240 swordfish myself . but thats just my 2 cents worth

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Originally Posted by mustangboy_347

i really never stopped to look at temps just did a couple really nice passes in nabout a 2 acre pond and man it was over in seconds ,i called castle and they said that the esc should hold that motor selection pretty good , dont really know what size prop i got ,i got it off my buddy ....do you think that the castle 240 hydra hv would do the trick for me .....thanks guys for the input also

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boats aren't hard to make run real good for two passes....

If I ran my 1515 1.5y on a x445 on 6s it would run super hard for about 2 passes then I would need to put it away.... as temps would be 135-140.... any more passes and I would be forking over $200 for another NEU..... so my answer is no esc will hold up if you aren't somewhat in the realm of reason.... you should be running a x440 or at the very most a x442 as a starting point with that setup..... any larger prop and its gonna cost you another $179 for another hydra 120.... you could also try a 40mm and a 42mm K series Graupner Prop if you don't wanna spend the dough on a balanced and sharpened octura....

playing with Castle esc's and Castle motors without knowing what prop you are even using is a very $$$$ proposition....definately find out what prop was on there and let us know.... I am quite sure the prop and ride attitude could be your problem...

A Hydra 120 or any other 120amp esc isnt enough amps for this setup. I suggest a Hydra 240.

it is a 42mm prop just got off the phone with my buddy....looks like i will be up grading to the 240HV HYDRA very soon.....

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Originally Posted by scoota

i will not use hydras cause so many have failed , i would go for a 180 seaking or 240 swordfish myself . but thats just my 2 cents worth

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where do i get 1 of those swordfish you are talking about

You don't need a HV240 for a 4s setup....

If you want a HV240 though I do have one for sale.....

$300 shipped.... with a extra cap board... it will handle your setup and then some.... or I have the turnigy 2000 monster HV esc too in the swap shop....

Here is the HV 240 its the bottom pic, the esc on the left....

https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ad.php?t=17357

The 240LV is the best 4 s option IMO, PLEASE by the data link cable and set your LV cut off correctly, 3.2 volts is a good place to be with this.
[QUOTE]as temps would be 135-140.... any more passes and I would be forking over $200 for another NEU..... [QUOTE]
Give the NEU motors some credit, I have a two year old 1515 1Y that regularly sees 150-160 deg F and a few times 180 and it still runs as strong and fast as the day I purchased it.

Here's a 180a in the states.......$4.95 shipping, to your door in 3-4 days.

http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-c-seaking-180a.html

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Originally Posted by Steven Vaccaro

A Hydra 120 or any other 120amp esc isnt enough amps for this setup. I suggest a Hydra 240.

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Steve hit the nail on the head here. :thumbup1:

4s = ~14v x 120a = 1728watts
4s = ~14v x 240a = 3456watts

The 2200 will easily pull 2000 watts in that size hull even with a small prop. The Hydra 240 is the way to go and leaves room for growth.

If you want to stay with the 120, the x438 would be the largest prop I would use, maybe a 440 or K40 at most if temps stay low. MPH will be in the low 40's amps close to 100.

With the 240 and an m445... upper 50's. (best guesstimate from experience)

Fighter is on the money, m545 and 645 are a good option too depending how your boat runs. M447 with some mods work well on that motor esc set up to. Currently trialing a x646/3 detounged, back cut 1/8 and down to 44.5mm, this is very fast and temps are acceptable. Not so good unmodified though

mustang boy this is great advise! i dont know if i feel this way because now i understand what these guys are saying. or they never told me lol! you have to know what you are pulling for amps. you need to check run times with amp draw to know this . i made the mistake of bashing castle after being flawless for so long.and the blowing for (no apparent reason) instead i should have been praising them for the 120 surviving so long with my hot setup!the more knowledge the less expensive this hobby is.good luck with your addiction lol.

[QUOTE=andym;222757]The 240LV is the best 4 s option IMO, PLEASE by the data link cable and set your LV cut off correctly, 3.2 volts is a good place to be with this.
[QUOTE]as temps would be 135-140.... any more passes and I would be forking over $200 for another NEU.....

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Give the NEU motors some credit, I have a two year old 1515 1Y that regularly sees 150-160 deg F and a few times 180 and it still runs as strong and fast as the day I purchased it.

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Andy I have a 1515 1.5y that saw 180 degrees too... It now sits on my workbench with no "cogging" whatsoever.... Had three total runs..... I need to send it back to get it fixed.... They are fantastic motors no doubt, I have plenty of neu's and like them very much, but they are designed to be operated under certain conditions.... I just assume keeping my neu's healthy and in their desired temp range...

Try one of these, should get that baby off the shelf and into a boat https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ad.php?t=16745
I know of one saw person who see's 160 deg minimum on a 1527 every run, same motor for over 50 runs and he just gets faster

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You don't need a HV240 for a 4s setup....

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I think that the evidence proves otherwise in this case. Few boaters realize how many amps they are really drawing with their setups - they think that just because it does not burn up it is okay.....

For those who have never data logged a BL motor, the UL-1 motor on 4S with an m545 prop can average 85-95 amps easily, with many many peaks over 100 amps - in a light, well setup LSH hull. A hotter motor like the Castle the OP used will pull far more amperage. It is no wonder that so many ESCs burn up when they are run outside their design envelope.

A higher capacity ESC will definitely help, but the OP needs to reduce his run time. Seven minutes is too long for most hot BL setups, particularly if a lot of part throttle is used. The latter is the cause of a lot of overheated, burned out ESCs.


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Well please by all means tell us all why the HV is a better 4s ESC than the 240LV ????? Cant can you !!

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Originally Posted by Fluid

I think that the evidence proves otherwise in this case. Few boaters realize how many amps they are really drawing with their setups - they think that just because it does not burn up it is okay.....

For those who have never data logged a BL motor, the UL-1 motor on 4S with an m545 prop can average 85-95 amps easily, with many many peaks over 100 amps - in a light, well setup LSH hull. A hotter motor like the Castle the OP used will pull far more amperage. It is no wonder that so many ESCs burn up when they are run outside their design envelope.

A higher capacity ESC will definitely help, but the OP needs to reduce his run time. Seven minutes is too long for most hot BL setups, particularly if a lot of part throttle is used. The latter is the cause of a lot of overheated, burned out ESCs.


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Here's some data to back up what Jay's talking about : three runs on a 4S Spec LSH setup with a UL-1 motor turning an M445. The purple line is amps - the left Y-Axis is the values. Frankly I'm surprised [ and impressed] that the UL-1 SC (with some extra caps) did so well, although the runs were quite short. If the UL-1 motor pulled this many amps in a very loose running setup, a 2200 Mamba has to pull lots more, very likely way outside the realm of what a CC 120 can comfortably handle, especially with long(er) runs.

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Originally Posted by andym

Try one of these, should get that baby off the shelf and into a boat https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ad.php?t=16745
I know of one saw person who see's 160 deg minimum on a 1527 every run, same motor for over 50 runs and he just gets faster

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I don't think telling people to operate their motors at 160 degrees for increased performance is a appropriate message to be sending to folks, especially ones without alot of experience that aren't racing.... I think I assume keeping mine at the 120-130 range.... been at the higher temps... always ends up costing me money :beerchug: and Again I am not Bashing NEU Motors.... I have switched 90% of my boats to them.... love em actually, but I also want them to be in my boats years to come thats why I spent the extra for them, and my Neu's dont seem to need to run high temps to perform exceptionally.... and also andy... this gentleman has the Castle Version... which the quality might not be at exactly the same level...

this is a data log of the CC/NEU 1515 / 2200kv with a M445

I was not recommending to do so, only that they are capable. Any one who wants longer than 1-1 1/2 min run time would not even think about these high temps

here are the temps first graph is the ESC , 2nd is the motor end bell temp

Another recommendation in order to stay with the 120a esc is to go with a lower Kv motor. More volts = less amps. Get a Neu 1515 1.5Y @ 1500kv. Not sure if the replacement rotor will work to change the Kv but that might be a good option at low cost if the rotors can be interchanged.

4s x 120a = 1728 watts @2200kv = 32560 RPM

6s x 120a = 2664 watts @1500kv = 33300 RPM

According to Castle, the 1515 series motors are mostly 2500 watt (peak) motors, so using 6s and 1500kv appears to be the most efficient configuration.


PS- I'm running that exact cat right now on 6s using a generic 125a Suppo ESC and a generic KD 3674 1100Kv motor & an m445 prop, running 44ish mph.