Anyone know of any water outlets that will work with the aquacraft ul superior. From the outside to inside wall is a little over a inch in length.
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Anyone know of any water outlets that will work with the aquacraft ul superior. From the outside to inside wall is a little over a inch in length.
Maybe epoxy in a brass tube? Leave enough sticking inside to attach your waterline and trim the outside flush.
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I used some Traxxas water ferrules to bling it up a bit on the outside. I epoxied the brass tubing into the ferrule, then epoxied the ferrule in the boat. By brass was about 1.2” long, so I can attach water lines easily inside the boat... Here’s a pic...
Looks good :)
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What is the capacitor on your receiver for? Old school stutter stopper with a new high speed cap?Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigP
It’s a 47uF at 16V. I soldered a Futaba connector to the leads and placed into an unused port. Notice the ferrite ring on the power lead coming from the UBEC... That needs to be there so you make a nice high frequency filter at the receiver. It’s there not for stutter, but to keep glitches off the receiver. I suppose glitches can cause stutter, so if that’s the case, then yes, it’s a stutter suppressor. But usually much worse things happen when the receiver gets glitched, like a runaway boat.
The way the UL1 has the molded inside tub makes it a bitch to work with! If you look hard at my pic, you’ll see a small, aluminum hatch cover on the rear portside. I put that in there so I could mount a Traxxas dual port, blue anodized exit port. I run a full, dual channel water system. I suppose the long copper tubing would work fine, but I wanted to dress it up a bit. You’ll also see hatch covers on the wall inside the tub. Those were to gain access so I could put thread inserts in, to make it a sealed, tapeless solution.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonny15678
Here’s the water discharge port...
Depends what the glitches are from...Been decades since I've seen one used so I had to look it up. Basically a stutter stopper compensates for brown outs under heavy load. More modern ESCs have strong enough built in BECs that these have become largely unnecessary. Why use the UBEC? Was the built in BEC not working good enough?Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigP
I use the BEC to break a noisy ground loop that using the internal BEC creates. Simply put, it stops motor current from trying to circulate thru the receiver/servo section, which injects a high degree of motor noise in this critical control path. I’m sure you’ve heard of boats “freezing up” and crashing without apparent explanation. Glitches are very unpredictable when they originate from the ground side. All receivers have small, microprocessors in them, and they don’t like ground glitches! So, I never use the internal bec from the ESC...
Actually I haven't heard of that. I've been running cars for the past 25+ years and am only now getting into boats. In cars issues like that have been gone for over a decade. I assumed the same would hold true for boat since the electrical components are pretty much the same except in cars we used sensored motors and ESCs. For awhile we did have to run a voltage booster similar to that because we run 1/12th pan cars on 1s batteries which don't have enough voltage for the RX but most high end ESCs that are 1s capable now have a voltage booster built in. We used to have to deal with interference from the extremely high switching rates in the MOSFETs in the ESCs but even that was quite some time ago. These days it is super rare to see a car glitch.
So far I haven't had any problems with glitches with my Turnigy 120amp ESC and the RX for my Futaba 4PK. Is this something I am going to need to watch out for?
Currents are considerably higher in a boat. There’s been even more reports of sudden, catastrophic ESC failure, resulting in fire. Many of these are the result of bad electrical wiring practices, but some are just mysterious. But an ESC can get glitched too.
You should just wire it the way you are comfortable. I’ve had a long career as an EE and have designed many microprocessor based systems in high power applications. I have to use extreme care in designing and laying out the power sections. I read about people’s encounters and it all sounded too familiar. So I looked closely at it and identified an unwanted ground loop that I’m not comfortable with. One thing I didn’t mention is I also include an opto isolator between the receiver and the ESC.
There are many on this forum that take issues with my analysis, so it won’t break my heart if you feel differently. Just throw the batteries in it and go have fun!
Well it sounds legit...I'll keep it in mind and try it if I start having problems. Thanks!