Pulled it out of the rafters and started on bolting in the esc and built some cables to parallel 2 8000mah 6s batts. I had a lot of fun 7 years ago building this and never really got it going except for 2 trips to the pond and 2 blown esc?s. Much lower kv motor now. I plan to ad water cooling to the speed control. Round 3 go :buttrock:Attachment 168581
Nice!!
I suspect that you will end up moving the batteries back a bit to get the CG right.
Absolutely! I had battery trays but pulled them out for the rebuild. I might test the esc/ motor combo out like this and if it works out then I?ll dive into it farther :thumbup::thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by larryrose11
I?m building a oil immersion esc cooler it?s going to fit front or rear of the motor with CG being good either way with 16,000mah of 6s. I?ll probably try my best to place it between the motor and servo so I can get my CG right with smaller batteries. I plan on water cooling the top and bottom of enclosure. The motor is a 8,400 watt 5650/1150 kv.Attachment 168610
There is 4 sections to this esc oil submersion enclosure. The bottom 3 have been Hondabonded and top rebolted until the semi drying compound cures. The top and bottom sandwich the center 2. Tomorrow I?ll disassemble and drill the top holes for the esc wires and cut into 3 sections, I?ll have a rubber plug to fill it. I will coat the inside aluminum sections with a layer of JB to prevent electrical shorts. And I?ve decided it?s going right here, fits in there like a glove:thumbup1
Attachment 168631
Scrapped the oil bath . I figured a way to modify the xlx casing. This is going to take a few days due to JB cure time.Attachment 168690
The esc in this boat is very important with this motor so I’m building it up accordingly since I build all of my boats for long run times it has to be on top in the cooling department. These heat sinks will be bonded directly and there will be no going back.Attachment 168691
Attachment 168699Progress report, it?s turning out good. I?ve been speeding up cure time with my heat gun. I still have 2 more cooling tubes to add.
I've got a Castle XL2 with similar modifications in my Rivercat that Kfxguy built.
Attachment 168700
Build thread was here if you were looking for any other ideas.
Nice ! I still call KXFguy once in a blue moon. I always enjoyed watching him push the limits ! I’m epoxying the last cooling tub. This esc has 3/8 square for heat sinks. I like the way he did his.Quote:
Originally Posted by fweasel
It will go in there something like this. The lexan esc mount will be switched for aluminum and esc bonded with JB effectively creating a huge water cooled heat sink when bolted up. I like this :tiphat:
Attachment 168703
You're going to want use a thermal paste between the ESC and aluminum if you want heat transfer. JB Weld will probably act as an insulator.Quote:
Originally Posted by rearwheelin
JB is actually a great conductor of heat and not conducive.Quote:
Originally Posted by fweasel
There is a thin cured layer before the final layer to be sure nothing will short out. JB may not be “the best” but it does work.
https://www.overclockers.com/forums/...re-to-J-B-Weld
Interesting read, thanks for the link. I've always used stuff like Arctic Silver myself.
I have a friend who fully encapsulated a $50 120 amp esc which I gave to him thinking they were junk. He put aluminum tubes for water cooling all over it and over 10 years later it’s still his best boat esc. Go figure lol
Well the ESC seems good with the modification and has a lot of metal and cool tubs to pull heat and cool things down . It?s a bit bigger than stock now . I like how the esc mounting plate it aluminum and bolted to aluminum stringers , that?s going to get rid of heat really well in itself.https://youtu.be/4o5mMMpjI70
Ready to rock and roll
Attachment 168770Attachment 168771Attachment 168772
Boat ran great , perfect for a maiden. Brought it in 4 times to check things then I was informed it was illegal to run at this pond , been running there since 2006 lol... anyways the pond was too small but figured proper for testing. Zero heat issues and couldn’t be happier with this boat so far. I’d say it’s poking 60 mph and gaining before I run out of water.
Attachment 168781
I managed to sneak in a full test today. This boat is heavy with 2 8000mah 6s batteries at 17 lbs so it seems to push its weight around but nice straight line stability. Nothing got hot , not even close so now I feel completely comfortable with a full 7 minutes continuous run without bringing the boat in to check temps. The esc capacitors were not even
100F , the hottest thing was the motor at 110F and the batteries might of been 90F . Outside weather was about 85F. This build has good fun running in its future:tiphat:
https://youtu.be/eiGo0JMNfkc
I couldn’t believe how cool the esc came back each time. I’ve lowered the strut a bit for the next test .Quote:
Originally Posted by fweasel
I dropped the strut more and that was all it took to make it handle and turn better. I was basically full throttle for 5 minutes and boat did everything great
I?ve been working this boat pretty hard the last week and am really learning a lot on setting up a cat. A single drive cat was something I have never really accomplished. I deleted all my old testing videos because I don?t like to clog up my channel with noise so this is a video from today and it?s sure working good right now so I?ll be saving the current adjustments. This boat started out with a idea of my own custom drop in unit 7 years ago. I built a drop in for a titan33 also and that has been working out great also but this one was over the top for me and well worth the effort.
https://youtu.be/r5dbOLuVcd8
On motor cooling, I think you may have the tubes reversed.
in any container, water will only fill as high as the water exit. The rest will be filled with air.
So, water exit at the highest point on the motor jacket, always.
Also, the fittings on TP Cans are often too narow, making a flow restriction. Replace them. I just use a short section of aluminum tube.
Thank for the comment , you are correct on the water jacket line however I did think it out and decided to go with it and the motor jacket is cooling the engine great with nice flow out the exit. The only perk to having the flow enter at the high side is it will cool the motor best where the motor leads enter the motor. Water also transfers heat super fast and doesn’t really store a lot so the sooner you can get the water out the better. That said all my other boats are as you pointed out. I can literally go 5 minutes full throttled and not overheat anything on this boat. Where I have the water line T to the engine that is a smaller ID going to the motor as so not to loose too much going to a section on the esc. I have had to solder rudder barbs and re drill smaller from too much flow before but thanks for noticing that.Quote:
Originally Posted by larryrose11
In an open cooling system, like our FE boats, there is no such thing as too much flow. More flow, more better. I'm not sure I follow your logic on needing to cool the top end of the motor where the wires exit the can. That space is often void, just a bearing, the end of the rotor, and the tops the the winds. Regardless, it's a simple plumbing flip to fill the can at the low point and does nothing but improve your cooling.
The boat really does appear to be running great. Nice work.
Thanks man ! I agree with you guys on the cooling ! But seems to be working great right now . I’m sure I will flip the line some day but they enter and exit on top of the jacket so not as important as a jacket like on my CC and NEU motors where the entry is on the side and exit is on top of motor by the motor leads. The motor outside temp has only been as high as 110F and core 140F after running hard for over 5 minutesQuote:
Originally Posted by fweasel