any hull cracks? what prop are you running? glad someone experienced took a chance. think I'm going to buy one. thanks
Printable View
No hull cracks.
We're finding the stock (B&S) prop get's us best speeds so far, 46 mph. Still tuning, next weekend we hope to reach 47 mph, still 100% stock.
We did start running with out the canopy, seems to help. W/O the canopy we've added a 1.5" windshield at 45 deg. and wind deflector at the back of the canopy opening to prevent the parachute effect. I'll try to post pictures.
Have you guys tried running a 257 full mod carb on any of them? It may get u some more power. You can also run a copper head gasket for more compression and pick up some power there. Gas boats was my thing for years. I'm currently resurrecting my full mod express craft thunderbolt.
Low Speed needle 1 1/4
Hi Speed needle 1 3/8
Be sure to get a needle clamp, or needles moved at WOT.
Haven't even moved the strut yet, it's flush to the bracket at the top I believe.
WD40 clutch about very full tank of gas or when you lube the flex shaft. Or every time you flip the boat.
We're running 46 mph w/o the canopy on.
Sunday we'll be testing with and with out the velocity stack.
Oh yeah, NGK spark plug in the "7" heat range (I forget the full NGK number)
Also running VP110 fuel with Yamalube 2R
Ngk cmr7h
just read the instructions for cable greasing. seems like alot of work. anyone come up with an easier way? appreciate your help setting this boat up. seems well made overall. one thing I don't like, though, is nylon thrust washers at the strut between drive dog and strut. have you seen significant wear of the washers? going to run sunday. have a couple props to try. also going to try larger 2 blade props with the strut set even with bottom of rear sponsons. more like a surface drive if you will. I have a zelos 48 electric, hull only which I ran with a 10s motor. torque roll was too much until i raised the strut. will let you know how I make out. thanks again.
Zippkits has a bearing to replace the nylon thrust washer between the drive dog and strut. It's actually acetal, not nylon. Just ordered a few to try out.
We got up to 48 mph today with the Zelos 48g, 100% stock.
We put the velocity stack back on and angled the prop strut about 5 degrees to raise the bow. (It used to be level with the top of the strut mount)
50 mph is within reach for sure, just need to spend time fine tuning the carb needles and prop strut.
ran the boat for about an hour. stock prop worked well. impressed with handling. one problem however, the steering servo won't center. my friend has the boat and haven't looked into it. is it waterproof? some water got in, not much, though.
Been out of the RC business for a long time but my wife is getting me a new Zelos 48G for Xmas. I've been a good boy I guess! So might have a few new questions. First one I can think of is if the boat will run about 45 minutes how long will the receiver battery last in the boat?
lol
Problem: engine cuts out at 1/2 tank. Checked for air leaks and adjusted carb, still cuts out. Any tips? TIA
any deterioration of the fuel line? sound to me like a crack in the pickup line in the fuel tank. when the tank is full, no problems... once it gets to the level of the cracked line, sucks air. OOOORRRRRR.......LOL is there a check valve in the tank to allow the tank to release vaccuum form the tank? tank might be pulling vaccuum, and starving carb...
I just picked up one of these for cheap because people don't understand gas boats. It's in great shape only ran twice. I brought it home striped out the stock motor, clutch, and driveline. Installed a new zenoah g300pum that was modified by Mike Ross, used a speedmaster collet in place of the clutch, installed a speedmaster drive shaft, and a prop works 7016/3-400-LL. I took it out to break in the motor today and I like this boat a lot. At a minimum through the clutch in the trash change out the driveline and prop, you will have an reliable boat that you can enjoy.
I have recently picked up a Zelos 48, and felt like I needed to respond to this thread ( although it is quite old). When I ran my boat for the first time out of the box, I had the same symptom reported here ( stab the throttle and nothing but revving to the moon). I debated whether or not this was clutch slip or cavitation, and remembered the debate in this thread. I dropped the strut 1/8" from the factory location, and the boat drove entirely different. The prop now digs hard, and the boat is decently quick ( 37mph or so) running very wet and with some power left on the table carb tuning wise. I expect this boat to be in the low 40s without too much work, and it should hit 50 with a well worked prop and finished tune.
The good:
The boat seems well built. Finish is great looking, all parts look decent hardware wise. Engine is strong running and has been consistent and responsive to tuning out of the box.
The not so good:
The cooling system is not the best. The line for the cylinder head needs to be bored out for sure, and I am contemplating a dual inlet head and dual inlet rudder.
Rudder deflection with the stock radio is pretty bad ( and no end point adjustment).
Forget about turning left. This boat has serious right side percentage, and loves to rip turns to the right. Turn left under power in any capacity and things get dicey. This could be counterbalanced with weight, but its not that serious.
Some video from today:
https://youtu.be/--83-WsC09Y
clock wise is normal course for rc boats. the props turn counter-clockwise and the prop acts as a paddle wheel, pulling the transom to the left. this has a tendency to pull the boat to the right and turning the rudder adds to this pulling right. going left is going against this . that's why it doesn't like to go left. by the way, what is rudder deflection??
I get whats going on with the forces back there, just being spoiled not being able to rip the boat both directions hahaha. Rudder deflection is pretty much throw, on a middle or high end radio you can just mess with the EPA ( end point adjustment) and make it so the servo throws further in one or both directions for sharper turns. Based on what I have seen from this boat, I would probly leave the throw alone for the left turns, and maybe crank in some more throw for right turns making the boat a touch more aggressive. Just my .02
That said I'm resisting the urge to just shop for more prop for this thing and cheat my way to 50mph, however I want to try to do it the "hard" way first truly box stock.