Seaking 180 ESC Waterproofing

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  • Bullwink
    Senior Member
    • Oct 2011
    • 244

    #16
    Thanks guys. I opted to leave the heat shrink on. I used liquid tape to flow into the esc and then sealed the ends in silicone.

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    • tim v
      brushless everything.....
      • Jul 2010
      • 166

      #17
      I always use conformal coating on my esc and recievers . It is sweet it dries clear and you can solder through it.....
      :canada

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      • desmobob
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2011
        • 170

        #18
        The last thing I got interested in before trying RC boats was RC float planes. I had been flying RC for many years, but finally decided to try flying off the water. I learned right away that water and ESCs did not get along. The typical solution for a lot of RC flyers is treating the ESC by submerging it in a cup of CorrosionX overnight, then letting it drain for a day before using it.

        I don't believe I've heard any of the boaters here mention using CorrosionX. I think the stuff is a miracle, personally....

        Take it easy,
        desmobob

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        • martin
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Aug 2010
          • 2887

          #19
          You have obviously missed the discussions & mentions of Corrosion X on this forum, this stuff is probably wider used & mentioned on this forum than any other around. Its also in the OSE store.

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          • Mattwarner
            Senior Member
            • Aug 2011
            • 487

            #20
            Can you just use silicone sealant? Plasti dip is hard to get in the UK and about x3 the price! I've got a tube of black sealant at home.

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            • Howard
              Senior Member
              • Jun 2011
              • 194

              #21
              I use black ultra silicone sealant. So yes you can just use what you have.

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              • martin
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Aug 2010
                • 2887

                #22
                In the UK plastdip them selves sell on Ebay. Re silicon, yes you can use this as well. The problem with any sealer is where your moving the wires around on the esc etc you break the seal around the wire & you dont know whether its still water tight. If water does get in then it just sits their not drying for a long time. Silicon must not be the acid type,you know the one that smells of vinegar as that will corrod the whole esc over time, you need electronics grade or one that dosnt have acid in it. With Corrosion X you simply treat it & its good to go, you can then give it another coat anytime later ecspecially if it does get wet.

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                • m4a1usr
                  Fast Electric Addict
                  • Nov 2009
                  • 2038

                  #23
                  Originally posted by Mattwarner
                  Can you just use silicone sealant? Plasti dip is hard to get in the UK and about x3 the price! I've got a tube of black sealant at home.
                  You can use anything you want as long as its a sealant and has decent dialectric capabilities. But you might consider the issues with using "goops". A thin water proof membrane allows heat to travel off the boards much more efficiently. Thick covering retains more heat on the components that generate heat. If your ESC survives your setup and continues to run over the years you need to consider that heat alone is the one major factor that kills speedos. Getting them wet is up there too but the quality built speedos are not encaspsulated, sealed in a mass of some elastomer. They breathe so to speak or at least allow heta to escape as much as possible.

                  John
                  Change is the one Constant

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                  • Boaterguy
                    Fast Electric Addict!
                    • Apr 2011
                    • 1760

                    #24
                    Originally posted by Bullwink
                    Thanks guys. I opted to leave the heat shrink on. I used liquid tape to flow into the esc and then sealed the ends in silicone.
                    if the silicone is acetone based it will ruin your PCB (according to ben)

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                    • Bullwink
                      Senior Member
                      • Oct 2011
                      • 244

                      #25
                      Right. I saw that. So I made sure the silicone I used was not acetone based. (I think :-) )

                      Comment

                      • Accessable
                        Member
                        • Jun 2012
                        • 57

                        #26
                        I just let all the smoke out of a brand new Seaking 180 - not impressed with a device supposedly built for marine applications.
                        No, I didn't seal it - why should I have to if it's constructed correctly?
                        Pretty pink smoke covered the lake - looked like an emergency flare went off - laughed 'til I cried!
                        Got a Hydra 240 XL on order. Hope it has better engineering for preventing "liquid lightup".
                        How to make a small fortune.... Start with a large one and get into FE boats!

                        Comment

                        • HydroMike
                          Senior Member
                          • Oct 2011
                          • 334

                          #27
                          Guys u might want to look into this . I just started to use this and it works great http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ht=#post415457

                          Comment

                          • bigwaveohs
                            Senior Member
                            • May 2009
                            • 535

                            #28
                            Originally posted by Bullwink
                            Question: Should I cut the stock plastic covering off of the ESC, coat everything in liquid tape and then spray it with plastic dip or, should I leave the stock plastic on and just try to waterproof the exposed ends with liquid tape and black silicon caulk?[ATTACH=CONFIG]67333[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]67334[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]67335[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]67336[/ATTACH]
                            I cut the shrink off my Swordfish 200 and used PlastiDip but it's a real mess...in hindsight I should have just plugged the ends and coated with Dip...JMHO.
                            I let the dogs out...

                            Comment

                            • traeside
                              Senior Member
                              • Aug 2012
                              • 190

                              #29
                              I have a silly question, has anyone sent one of these back for repair after waterproofing it?

                              Comment

                              • traeside
                                Senior Member
                                • Aug 2012
                                • 190

                                #30
                                Originally posted by Howard
                                it says version 2, Does it matter?

                                I know it's suppose to be waterproof but it definitely is now. Here's the pics after the electrical tape has dried.

                                [ATTACH=CONFIG]65711[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]65712[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]65713[/ATTACH]
                                Howard, have you submerged it yet? i followed what you did here but i must have missed something sense after about 15 minutes in the water the case was about ½ filled with water and I could not get it to drip out tell I removed all the liquid tape and the screws then I dumped all the water out. it is now sitting in rice for a few days before I try it. I saw somewhere one guy filled the whole thing up with the spay liquid tape.

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