Cooling more than the windings

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  • hydromaddicted
    Member
    • Nov 2009
    • 83

    #16
    Randy,

    Other than an email to see what they had in stock,I do not have any experience with these.


    James

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    • RcBum
      Member
      • Mar 2010
      • 71

      #17
      Hi how efficient would it be in a fully sealed boat where there is no cool air getting in wouldn't a water jacket work better ?

      Comment

      • Jeff Wohlt
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Jan 2008
        • 2716

        #18
        It still moves the air. Many have used fans blowing the ESC with great success. This is just a method of pulling air thru the motor.
        www.rcraceboat.com

        [email protected]

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        • FE Wannabe
          Senior Member
          • Jul 2007
          • 626

          #19
          I was just thinking:

          Why can't the motor cans be made from copper instead of aluminum?

          Is there a reason I am not seeing other than weight and oxidation? Then the water cooling on the outside of the can could potentially be that much more efficient.

          Brad
          SoCal Fast Electrics|H&M Drifter S-CC1512/4S/T180A|Aeromarine Scorpion 32"- UL-1/4S/HM200A|Insane 34- CC1515 1Y/4S2P/T180A|BK Bandit S-CC1515 1Y/4S2P/T180A|Insane FE30 UL-1/4S/ETTI 150

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          • AndyKunz
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Sep 2008
            • 1437

            #20
            Cost. Compare Cu and Fe salvage costs.

            Strength. Copper is a very soft metal.

            Andy
            Spektrum Development Team

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            • Jeff Wohlt
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Jan 2008
              • 2716

              #21
              But...making a cooling plate for the ESC with copper has many,many times more dissipating power than alum. Easy and soft to drill but a bit high cost. 1/4" plate would work well.

              Yep...not sure I could see a motor with copper....although I think trinity had one called the copperhead...I have one but not all copper.
              www.rcraceboat.com

              [email protected]

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              • FE Wannabe
                Senior Member
                • Jul 2007
                • 626

                #22
                Thanks for the replies, I knew there had to be something preventing it from being used.

                Although, I wonder if a copper alloy exists that might increase the hardness/tensile strength without losing too much of its excellent heat exchanging properties? The cost I understand would be more, but if the benefits are worth it, that could justify the increased cost.
                SoCal Fast Electrics|H&M Drifter S-CC1512/4S/T180A|Aeromarine Scorpion 32"- UL-1/4S/HM200A|Insane 34- CC1515 1Y/4S2P/T180A|BK Bandit S-CC1515 1Y/4S2P/T180A|Insane FE30 UL-1/4S/ETTI 150

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                • m4a1usr
                  Fast Electric Addict
                  • Nov 2009
                  • 2038

                  #23
                  Look more to the tensile strength of the material and the un-needed additional weight. Copper doesnt work in the design. Alloy Alum has far more better structural characteristics then Cu. And why pay a weight penalty with far less benefits for performance?

                  BTW copper only has a 2 to 1 ratio over aluminum as far as heat conductivity. The materials used for housing construction are based on rigidity and not thermal characteristics. Proper useage is assumed in the application. Dont ask for more then the engineered constants.

                  John
                  Change is the one Constant

                  Comment

                  • FE Wannabe
                    Senior Member
                    • Jul 2007
                    • 626

                    #24
                    Points taken and understood.

                    Thanks for the clarification,
                    Brad
                    SoCal Fast Electrics|H&M Drifter S-CC1512/4S/T180A|Aeromarine Scorpion 32"- UL-1/4S/HM200A|Insane 34- CC1515 1Y/4S2P/T180A|BK Bandit S-CC1515 1Y/4S2P/T180A|Insane FE30 UL-1/4S/ETTI 150

                    Comment

                    • Make-a-Wake
                      FE Rules!
                      • Nov 2009
                      • 5557

                      #25
                      Nice Jeff! I had been brainstorming about this as well.............in fact i fixed a small 12v computer fan right in front of the end of a 380 that came with cooling vents front and rear, kept it fairly cool, although yours is much more efficient.
                      NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=

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                      • Jeff Wohlt
                        Fast Electric Addict!
                        • Jan 2008
                        • 2716

                        #26
                        This one builds a draw thru the motor. I have not tried it on a motor yet but will. Had the end caps off my 8xl replacing bearing and never even thought to drill the holes...kind of gave up on it sinceit did not get better reviews. It will work well and in the summer can only help. I am looking at an ESC box that will pull air thru it as well.
                        www.rcraceboat.com

                        [email protected]

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                        • LarrysDrifter
                          Big Booty Daddy
                          • May 2010
                          • 3278

                          #27
                          Originally posted by Jeff Wohlt
                          It still moves the air. Many have used fans blowing the ESC with great success. This is just a method of pulling air thru the motor.
                          Is there a right or wrong way to cool the electronics?Does it matter if its the motor or esc 1st.My ul1 has the water tubes going to the esc then the motor.My Drifter is setup the opposite and seem to run hotter.Both boats have the pickup in the rudder.

                          Comment

                          • Jeff Wohlt
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Jan 2008
                            • 2716

                            #28
                            ESC always first. A sep water pick up for the motor would be nice. Y-ing them drops pressure but should be able to work. I would rather pull new water in if it were me.
                            www.rcraceboat.com

                            [email protected]

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                            • LarrysDrifter
                              Big Booty Daddy
                              • May 2010
                              • 3278

                              #29
                              Thanks. I thought about making separate cooling for the esc and motor.Along with their own individual dicharges obviously.I would like to use the rudder for one and I havent thought about the other style of pickup for the other.Or should I forego the rudder and make a different style of pickup without using the rudder?Any suggestions?

                              Comment

                              • blackcat26
                                High Speed Junkie
                                • Sep 2009
                                • 1598

                                #30
                                Have you considered a rudder with 2 pickups? That would be your easiest route to take.
                                FE BOATING: Less like a hobby and more like an addiction!

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