Winston eagle Lobster-ML Boatworks Extreme 1/8 scale frame kit-my build

[ray schrauwen]

Very nice build and it's great to see another 1/8th scale using an outrunner. Outrunners sound very cool in hydroplanes, almost turbine like...\

Do you know what timing and pwm settings you will use for the Scorpion motor? I have outrunners and ran them a few times but, never know if I'm using them right.

Scale boat builds are pretty intense. It would take me forever to do this so, Ill just enjoy your handy work.

[Agitator]

These are the specs from Scorpion, as these were designed for heli use, the set the timing at 5, but i run mine between 5 and 7.5, where ever it is 'happiest' depending on which boat. I usually run 8s, and this new boat will be 10s, so I'm not sure yet where I will find the sweet spot. I have 4 1/8 scales running Scorpion 4035/800s and 2 running Neu 1527 1.5y

Specifications

Stator Diameter 40 mm (1.56 in)
Stator Thickness 35 mm (1.024 in)
No. of Stator Arms 12
Magnet Poles 8
Motor Wind 6 Turn Delta
Motor Wire 27 - Strand 0.29mm
Motor Kv 800KV RPM / Volt
No-Load Current (IO) 2.5 Amps @ 8.4v
Motor Resistance (RM) 0.010 Ohms
Max Continuous Current 100 Amps
Max Continuous Power 4200 Watts
Weight 435 Grams (15.34 oz)
Outside Diameter 48.9 mm (1.9 in)
Shaft Diameter 7.98 mm (0.30 in)
Body Length 61.5 mm (2.38 in)
Overall Shaft Length 94.7 mm (3.73 in)
Max Lipo Cell 12s
Motor Timing 5deg
Drive Frequency 8kHz

[ray schrauwen]

Scorpion makes some nice boat versions too with water cooling. More expensive but, very nice motors. I really like the 3026-2300kv motor which would be killer in a 4S hydroplane.

[meangenesracing]

Agitator, I think you know I'm building one of these to and i see your putting your strut through the bottom not on the transom may i ask how you will make adjustments?

[Agitator]

Agitator, I think you know I'm building one of these to and i see your putting your strut through the bottom not on the transom may i ask how you will make adjustments?

Not sure I understand. The struts on 1/8 scales always exit the bottom as the rear of the strut should be under the transom, not behind it. Some like to mount the bracket to the transom, but the strut still goes through the bottom of the boat. I like to spread the stress a little, and as this particular hull has such a narrow transom, I feel just the stress of the rudder is all I want, and the strut load is spread through the floor. The transom on mine is 7/16" thick as I added a piece inside cut out of 3/16" ply and the floor where the strut mounts is 1/4" thick, again adding a piece of 3/16" ply. I am going to swap out the mounting brackets though and use Accutech brackets as they will allow me to drop the strut a little deeper than the Speedmaster strut bracket.

009.jpg011.jpg

[Brushless55]

These are the specs from Scorpion, as these were designed for heli use, the set the timing at 5, but i run mine between 5 and 7.5, where ever it is 'happiest' depending on which boat. I usually run 8s, and this new boat will be 10s, so I'm not sure yet where I will find the sweet spot. I have 4 1/8 scales running Scorpion 4035/800s and 2 running Neu 1527 1.5y

what do you think of the Scorpion motors ?

Scorpion makes some nice boat versions too with water cooling. More expensive but, very nice motors. I really like the 3026-2300kv motor which would be killer in a 4S hydroplane.

I was on the MHZ website last night and almost picked one up to try in a PHydro

[meangenesracing]

Not sure I understand. The struts on 1/8 scales always exit the bottom as the rear of the strut should be under the transom, not behind it. Some like to mount the bracket to the transom, but the strut still goes through the bottom of the boat. I like to spread the stress a little, and as this particular hull has such a narrow transom, I feel just the stress of the rudder is all I want, and the strut load is spread through the floor. The transom on mine is 7/16" thick as I added a piece inside cut out of 3/16" ply and the floor where the strut mounts is 1/4" thick, again adding a piece of 3/16" ply. I am going to swap out the mounting brackets though and use Accutech brackets as they will allow me to drop the strut a little deeper than the Speedmaster strut bracket.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]131987[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]131988[/ATTACH]

This is my first 1/8 scale build so I've never installed a strut through the bottom. My questions is Wil it be watertight and be adjustable up and down thanks, geno

[Agitator]

Geno, I make the slot just large enough for the strut to fit and it will slide up and down and be able to set a positive or negative angle if needed. A little dab of silicone around where it exits the hull (inside) keeps the water out.

[785boats]

I smear a little fillet around the outside too.
Just check your rules a little more closely. Yours might be different, but ours say that the drive dog must be completely forward of the transom under the boat. That will dictate where you cut your slot & mount the bracket. Don't forget to allow for the gap between the strut & drive dog too.
But I think you also have a rule where the strut can extend past the transom if the original boat had one like that. The scale struts are available from Accu Tech.

http://www.accu-techrchardware.com/ASSA-100.html

You will have to do some research to see what strut the original had. There's a couple of glimpses here But I can't tell if the strut extends past the transom or not.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmPx6pAzQKk

[meangenesracing]

I smear a little fillet around the outside too.
Just check your rules a little more closely. Yours might be different, but ours say that the drive dog must be completely forward of the transom under the boat. That will dictate where you cut your slot & mount the bracket. Don't forget to allow for the gap between the strut & drive dog too.
But I think you also have a rule where the strut can extend past the transom if the original boat had one like that. The scale struts are available from Accu Tech.

http://www.accu-techrchardware.com/ASSA-100.html

You will have to do some research to see what strut the original had. There's a couple of glimpses here But I can't tell if the strut extends past the transom or not.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmPx6pAzQKk

WOW that's some great info there because I would have mounted on the transom so thanks to the both of you

[Agitator]

There was a discussion on this in another thread here, IMPBA rules state that NO part of the drive dog may extend past the transom, NAMBA rules state it can extend no more than 1 drive dog length beyond the transom. You still have to have about 1/4" gap between the dog and the strut so the cable has room to shrink under load. That said, this is the only pic I have of the business end, choice is up to you.

1911031_719060711469236_1531443124_o.jpg

[nichismo]

Mike W here is well aware of the respective racing governing groups and is extremely knowledgable in relative performance and qualifying needs, he has been immeasurably helpful in my T5 build, his tips and quirks on building have saved me a TON of mistakes and frustration on top of leaving me the option to enter races. :) If I didnt know better, I would have assumed he works/worked for a real hydroplane crew at one point or another, hes that educated guys! :)

Love that picture ^^^, it seems hard to find much media on certain unique boats like this from the past, in yet im constantly suprised when surfing the web at how many hydroplanes have actually raced/drove in H1's history, its pretty cool!


On an off topic note, I really wish I could get a 1/8 scale rudder with the "tiller" style like that. Ive seen several brackets in the T shape that are pretty resembling of full scale rudders, but not very much of the actual rudder. The struts too, I understand we need them to be adjustable, but I really that strut in the picture. Ive seen some guys in Europe whom have the huge 1/6 scale CT hydroplanes and the hardware they usually have is very superb in depicting the full sized unlimiteds. Funny too because so many other small features of their boats commonly misrepresent their respective full size counterparts, being that they aren't concerned with our typical governing bodies rules.

ct1056.jpgct1026.jpghardware.jpg

I smear a little fillet around the outside too.
Just check your rules a little more closely. Yours might be different, but ours say that the drive dog must be completely forward of the transom under the boat. That will dictate where you cut your slot & mount the bracket. Don't forget to allow for the gap between the strut & drive dog too.
But I think you also have a rule where the strut can extend past the transom if the original boat had one like that. The scale struts are available from Accu Tech.

http://www.accu-techrchardware.com/ASSA-100.html

You will have to do some research to see what strut the original had. There's a couple of glimpses here But I can't tell if the strut extends past the transom or not.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmPx6pAzQKk

You guys add this silicone after you have the strut adjusted to the position you like, correct?

I bought Accu-techs 1/8 scale hydroplane package, and I went with the "authentic" scale strut. I wished I would have chosen the normal strut, as I was more fixated at the picture of the real hydroplane transom they have on the struts detail page, and the authentic strut just looks a little odd and old fashioned on my hull. I couldnt line up the strut so that the slope begins at the transom due to obvious reasons and it sort of defeats the purpose of having a more scale strut appearence.

[meangenesracing]

this minimeca motor mount your using will it work with a neu 1527 of 1530? I went to their web site and i don't understand the language thanks, geno

I just took delivery last week of this new frame kit from Mike. I have to say, I have built a few of his kits over the last couple of years, but this one is special. Mike always seem to 'push the edge of the envelope' out just a bit more. These are just amazing kits. The original Lobster was built for Steve Woomer Racing by Jim Lucero and was nothing short of the strangest looking hydro built to date. The original, however, just did not perform as expected. The models of this boat, however, have been very successful and this next step with Mike's kit should prove to be a very good performer, and it just looks cool. The best example I can show right now, is this. I also have one Mike's T-6 Extreme kits and the shipping weight was 14 lbs. The shipping weight on the Lobster frame was 8 lbs. Gives an idea of what the finished weight may be. I'm going to use R/C Boat Company's cowl, wings, graphics from Mike McKnight and power will be a Scorpion 4035/800 on 10s. SCU to be determined. One challenge on this boat is the narrow tub-4 3/8" so I ordered a mount from Mini RC Meca that will work just right and keep the COG low. At this point, I have identified the parts (no instructions remember) and have started on the main wings/sponson supports and framed up the rear shoes. All the parts almost fall together, all toy-tabbed for proper alignment, just need to knock off the 'laser glaze' from the edges. Mike even includes the skins for the main wings.
I won't start the tub assembly until I get the cowl, but Mike has added a very neat feature to this tub,and hope he adds this to later kits. More on that later.

Michael

[ATTACH=CONFIG]130590[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]130591[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]130592[/ATTACH]

[Agitator]

No, that mount is designed for Scorpions only. He can make you a mount for a 1527 though, 1530 may be a bit too much but usable I'm sure. The Neu mount would be similar to this one. Here is the link to his thread here:

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...01-motor-mount

4082-1356_0.jpg

[meangenesracing]

Any More progress on your build? I'm watching you know lol