ML Boatworks 1/8th Scale 171 Extreme Build Miss Elam

[nichismo]

woah that looks so awesome.

man im super jealous

[Speed810]

Thanks for the advice Agitator.....

I'm thinking you are right....small tip, to high of air pressure and not enough paint. Although it went on and covered pretty well, it just caused some extra sanding that I was not counting on. I think the main thing that caught me off guard was the amount of pin holes in the fiberglass parts. But used some more glazing putty and all is well.

I guess I am also wondering when the gun manufacture calls for 40 to 50 PSI, if that is the pressure to be used to the gun....then scale it back with the regulator at the gun to 10 to 20 PSI.???? I know the data for all the colors and clear coats from HOK is to have the pressure set between 10 to 15 PSI at the gun. The Primer data however did not have any pressure data so went with the data with the gun.....My BAD!!!!

When you spray your colors and clears do you keep the flow knob turned all the way out and just control the flow with the amount of trigger pull? It appears a lot of folks do this. Was wondering if it would be best to limit the trigger pull to say 50% to 75% so not to get to much paint coming out at once.??? Like I was saying my biggest problem during my limited spraying of projects is that I can start to get runs from to much paint being applied. So I'm thinking very light coats, but then I don't want to get that sandy finish either...just a nice flow out. ANY SUGGESTIONS??

Nic.....Thanks man!! I'm sure trying....this painting thing will make or break the project....LOL So far so good, we'll see how the colors spray tonight.

Mike

[Agitator]

Paint control to me, is based on how well it covers. Some colors, including some whites are more transparent than others, so require more coats to cover. I think for the first couple of color coats, I'd run at 80% volume and see how it covers. Once the second coat has flashed off, you could probably crank the volume up to get nice even coverage. Same with the clear. Are you going to put a layer of clear on and then the graphics and then reclear? That's just the way I do it as I clear over the color and wet sand when dry with 1500 grit paper, apply the graphics and reclear. Not sure what the re-coat time is on HOK, but that is why I sand with super fine paper so the paint will gas off quicker. Always spray a test panel first to see what will happen and help adjust the settings.

[Luck as a Constant]

ML Boatworks 1/8th Scale 171 Extreme Build Miss Elam

Stick with what the gun calls for. They don't print it for fun.
maybe you're reducer is too fast.


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[Luck as a Constant]

ML Boatworks 1/8th Scale 171 Extreme Build Miss Elam

Fwiw, hok shouldn't be suggesting any psi. Psi is determined by what the gun manufacturer calls for.
But yeah... 1.0 way too small for primer



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[Speed810]

Agitator.....I'm thinking your right...start at the 75% to 80% flow and test it out at about 15 to 20 PSI. HOK suggests shooting their color at 10 PSI, but I think that's a bit low for the detail gun I'm using. The clear that I'm shooting they call an interim clear that will be scuffed with a 3M grey pad after about an hour dry time. Then taping will take place for the molly orange and another coat of interim clear over the orange, scuffed again and graphics applied. The final clear coat is a 3 part clear called their kosmic show clear. It will get about 2 to 3 coats of that over everything.

Luck....I understand what your saying, but it is in every product data sheet that HOK puts out. It just doesn't make sense that you would shoot every product at one particular PSI and CFM flow. That's why I am thinking that the PSI setting that comes with the gun is the PSI setting from the source, not what it is regulate to in reference to what product your shooting which can all be different based on the gun you are using. Otherwise why would HOK be printing suggested PSI setting reference their different products?

Mike

[Luck as a Constant]

I'm only a standox and ppg certified painter, and spray automobiles for a living... Go figure.
Good luck on your paint project bro!



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[Speed810]

Well just talked to Coast Airbrush where I purchased the product....they indicated that the initial pressure setting at 40 PSI for the primer was what was giving me the sandy texture. It was just going on to dry. So tuning that down to 30 to 35 PSI would have allowed more product flow and a smoother finish. As for the color coats, the color is going to be a bit thinner and to test it out with a 25 to 30 PSI setting and adjusting the fan pattern to about 6" and drawing the flow control down to about 50% at the trigger to start testing with just lacquer thinner. So as for the 10 PSI that's in the data sheet they couldn't tell me why that is in there because that is way to low....LOL But in the same token the gun recommendation is way to high....So I'll find that happy medium in there during testing before I start shoot this paint. Going to do that tonight and start painting color tomorrow.

So Agitator I would say your ideas are right in line with the information I got....Thanks again!

Luck...wasn't saying anything that your were wrong....It was more of a question if anything...LOL So the info that I got, does that sound like the way to go?
Appreciate any and all info....Would be interesting to hear what your set up would be in shooting this color....:)

Thanks Much

Mike

[don ferrette]

Fwiw, hok shouldn't be suggesting any psi. Psi is determined by what the gun manufacturer calls for.
But yeah... 1.0 way too small for primer



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Not trying to start any tiffs but gotta disagree here. I've shot both PPG DZ3 primer/surfacer and PPG DP48LF epoxy primer thru HVLP detail guns with 1.0 or 1.2 tips with no problems, been doing so for years. All of my (detail) guns have a small SATA regulator right at the inlet, on primers I set the reg @ 30psi and 20psi for paints (which yield about 10-12psi at the tip for colors and clears). Line pressure to the gun regulator is set at 50psi. The gun I use for primers was about $80 (forget the brand) and my two guns for colors and clears are SATA MiniJet 4s both with 1.0 tips. As for not following paint manufacturers psi recommendations.... ya got me scratching my head on that one. I have ALWAYS followed the mfg. recommended pressures on Dupont, HOK and PPG and gotten great results, the paint manufactures make those recommendations for a reason.

[nichismo]

Don Ferrette....

THE LIGHT SHEDDER.....






























come soon to a theatre near you.

[Speed810]

Hey Don.....Thanks for clarifying that for me. Did some test spraying this evening and found 20 to 25 PSI worked quite well just shooting thinner. The pattern was a little heavy on one end so tore down the gun again and found that the needle and tip were was still a little dirty from the primer that I sprayed. Tested again and it was much better, but still a tad thin on one end of the pattern. I think its good to go. As far as the PSI recommendation from HOK...it did seem a little low to set the gun pressure reg. to 10 PSI...but maybe their talking more at the tip. That would make sense from what your saying...20-25PSI at the reg. and get about 10-12 PSI at the cap.

Anyway very happy with the finish achieved with the primer coat after sanding...so should be ready for the colors to go on. One question for you...was there a trick to getting into the tighter spots on the boat....e.g. around the inside of the sponson area etc. without a bunch of overspray on other parts of the boat? Or maybe I shouldn't really worry about it if it all flows out anyway.

Thanks for the information.

Mike

[Doug Smock]

The boat is looking great Mike. Hope to see both of you at the Cup.

Good luck with the paint!

[don ferrette]

One question for you...was there a trick to getting into the tighter spots on the boat....e.g. around the inside of the sponson area etc. without a bunch of overspray on other parts of the boat?

I always shoot the tight areas and edges/corners first.

[Speed810]

Doug....Would be great to meet ya at the Cup Race. Hopefully this boat is complete soon so I can get some testing done.

Don, Thanks for the tip....Thats a great point that I'm sure will help keep me from over spraying other areas that are already coated.

Big Help!!

Thanks again!

Mike

[Speed810]

Color and graphics

Well the paint work is complete with a coat of interim clear so I can install the graphics. Have a little touch up work to do on the edges where it got pretty thin. Not sure if I can just touch up with a brush or if I'll have to re-shoot the edge again.
But it tuned out quite well. Thanks so much for all the tips. I got one on clear coating the taped edges before paint and that Color Graphics 2.JPGColor Graphics 4.JPGColor Graphics 3.JPGColor Graphics 1.JPGworked out like a charm. Not one bleed through at all and very sharp edges.

So far all the graphics went on great except for one with a lot of letters and small on one of the vertical fins. So I'll have to order another one before I can move to the final clear coats.

I think the thing I'm most disappointed in is the difference between the orange paint and the dull kind of orange tone that the graphics are on the verticals. I was really thinking that the graphics were going to be much more brilliant. Opinions?

My thought was to check with Mike at Thunderboat grphics and see if they can be printed up with a color orange that will match the paint color a lot closer. I'm figuring that the graphics already on the fins should come off with a little mild heat. Then start again.

Other than that real happy the way it has turned out so far. Hope that I can get a real nice clear finish all smoothed out when I get to that point.

Appreciate your opinions and ideas.

Mike